DC: Observations and experiences

I’d forgotten that just slightly over a year ago, I started a thread here asking people for input on my pending relocation to the DC area. I’ve been re-reading my thoughts and the advice given in the thread and comparing them to what my experience has been like over the last 10 months. It’s both mundane and pointless, but I felt like sharing.

First, a few generalities:
[ul]
[li]Mexican food has been every bit the travesty I was warned it would be. [/li]In my original thread, I made this bold prediction: “Something else will likely replace the Mexican void in my east coast life. I’m a fan of a lot of other cuisines, so we’ll just wing it.” So, that was utter bullshit. Boy do we miss Mexican food. We’ve eaten at several “Mexican” restaurants that have been varying levels of decent, but as others had noted but I failed to absorb, most “Mexican” restaurants are run by Salvadoreans. I like Salvadorean food, but they are very different cuisines. In looking back, I am seeing that some Dopers made recommendations for specific Mexican restaurants (La Fondita came up, in particular), and it’s long past time we started hitting these places up.
[li]I loved my first winter (except for the blizzard). [/li]jsgoddess can attest to the fact that I was like a little kid during my first (and second, and several subsequent) snow events. I drove in it a few times and didn’t find it to be all that dire, though I had a hard time getting out of my neighborhood on one occasion because it’s a bit of an uphill climb, and the roads were icy. Still, I managed to avert driving disaster. I did not, however, enjoy being stuck in my house for four days during the blizzard because we were last on the priority list to get plowed. Also, snow shoveling sucks.
[li]Spring was amazing, though short. [/li]After winter, seeing the leaves grow back and all of the colors I’d never seen before was spectacular. The cherry blossoms were gorgeous. It was all gorgeous. Loved it. And I’m still constantly pleased by how green things are in general compared to living in the desert.
[li]WTF with the Metro? [/li]I’d heard complaints about the Red Line before I got here, but all this nonsense with the fires and shut downs and such…damn. This morning, I ended up walking to work (near the soon-to-be Trump Hotel) from NoMa after being suddenly kicked off the train due to some unspecified mechanical failure. I am really, really not looking forward to the three weeks in August where part of the Red Line will be shut down, and I’ll be working from home as much as possible during that time. And, even when it’s working properly, I’m spending over $15/day commuting. It’s kind of insane.
[li]I walk far more than I ever thought I would. [/li]During the winter and spring (not so much yet during the summer), I really enjoyed getting out of the office on my lunch break and just walking around the District. Some of that I’d probably find interesting in any new city, but I really find the varying architecture combined with the monuments and the greenery to be pleasant. Walking is just pleasurable for me, now. That being said, however…
[li]I now hate tourists. [/li]I always thought of LA as a big tourist city, but I spent most of my time in downtown LA, and there aren’t many tourists hanging out there. DC? Now that’s a tourist city. I had no idea how obnoxious it would get when you’re trying to cross a street and have to negotiate through a crowd of 20 people ambling toward you, not having any idea where they’re going and not paying the slightest bit of attention to anything around them. And now that schools are getting out, it can only get worse.
[/ul]

Now, some nods to specific folks. Jcwoman noted that one of the reasons traffic is so bad out here is the lack of a grid system and alternate routes. It is beyond stupid to me that the most direct route from my home to downtown is to take city streets for 45 minutes, even though I don’t live all that far from access to interstates. Roads that I think I should be able to use as shortcuts don’t go where I think they ought to go. They just curve back onto themselves or head off into random directions. I would be dead in the water without GPS, even in my own neighborhood.

Omar Little recommended Hard Times Cafe. While we don’t eat there super often, I am always very, VERY happy when we do. That is just good (and oh-so-very heavy) food. And I don’t know if we’re lucky or what, but we’ve never had a wait or had it be particularly crowded when we’ve gone.

NAF1138 pointed out that I’d have a hard time following west coast baseball from here. Suffice to say that’s been true. Most nights, I wake up somewhere between 3-4am, go to the bathroom, check the Dodger score on my phone, and go back to bed. On the plus side, while the Dodgers and Indians are still far and away my favorite teams, we’ve started following and enjoying the Orioles. Love, love, love Camden Yards. Oh, and NAF1138—I’m planning on making a short trip to Philly when the Dodgers are up there in August, so if you’re still offering a cheesesteak, I’m in.

P-man noted that people don’t like to use turn signals out here. I mean, I see that everywhere, but yes, it seems particularly pronounced out here. What the hell, people? Also, people here seem to drive the larger suburban streets the way people in LA drive the freeways: “Why are you only driving 15 miles over the speed limit? Get out of my way!” Tailgating is real, here. On the other hand, people here don’t seem to have a clue when it comes to merging onto highways and interstates. It should not take you two miles to get up to speed, folks.

oft wears hats mentioned Astro’s Fried Chicken & Donuts. I stumbled on it one day because it’s not far from my office. GOOD fried chicken. But the donuts did not impress me. In fact, nothing about any donut I’ve had so far in DC has impressed me. Granted, in LA, there’s a donut shop on every corner, and I’m probably far better off not having easy access to good donuts. But damn, every once in a while, I’d really like a good fried cake donut with the white frosting and the sprinkles, and I haven’t any seen one out here.

Wendell Wagner mentioned Nando’s. Very tasty stuff. Possibly one of my wife’s favorites since we’ve been here. We don’t make it often enough.

Finally, I’d just like to point out that several people in that thread suggested it was time for a DC Dopefest. So…when is the DC Dopefest?

It’s summer so probably not the best time for ramen, but you have to give Momofuku a try.

Also, Centrolina in Center City.

Bistro du Coin, in Dupont circle is a treat if you want country French.

Do you find the museums live up to the hype or are you over them by now?

I suggest trying Ethiopian food as a replacement for Mexican food. It’s been quite a while since I lived there, but there were at least half a dozen very good Ethiopian restaurants.

I can’t help you with donuts. And when I lived there, the Metro worked! (except during snow storms, and despite most of it being underground)

Apologies for no links – can’t cut and paste right now.

There’s a great (to me, anyway) hole-in-the-wall burrito place in Arlington, on Columbia Pike, called Petro and Vinny’s. Very cheap and huge burritos, that are very tasty.

Lots of great Korean restaurants in and around Annandale VA. A great Bahn Mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) place in Falls Church called Bahn Mi DC – very, very cheap – you can get 6 sandwiches for about $20!

My favorite steak place is Ray’s the Steaks, in Arlington near Courthouse – just as good in quality, IMO, but less expensive, then Morton’s/Ruth’s Chris/etc.

Wonderful Pho in Arlington near Courthouse/Rosslyn called Pho 75 – very tasty, cheap, and filling (HUGE bowls of soup for about $8).

Great Dim Sum at Mark’s Duck House near Seven Corners.

Awesome Peruvian Chicken in Arlington near Virginia Square, called El Pollo Rico.

Sadly, we’ve made almost no inroads with the museums. I think we’ve only been to one or two since we got here. I’m still very much hoping to get to Udvar Hazy in the near future. And we’ve potentially got friends passing through here over the summer that might encourage us to do some more touristy type stuff. We shall see. So, I can’t really pass judgment on the museums either way as of yet.

We went to a good restaurant near Crystal City a few months ago. I’m not sure Ethiopian food is going to be a love of mine, but I’d gladly try again at some point. My wife liked it, though!

iiandyiiii, all the places you mention are in Virginia, and I’m in the complete opposite direction. Are you really proclaiming those places are worth the trip to the dark side? :slight_smile: And I’m a little embarrassed to say that I haven’t had dim sum out here, yet. But that’s really a group activity, and I’ve yet to acquire a group!

Which brings me ever-so-subtly back to the Dopefest idea…

Since the date is approaching, I have to mention that DC is a really interesting place on July 4 – and I mean completely apart from hanging out at the Mall with a million other people for fireworks and a half-dozen stages for live music.

There are so many bases and military units around, you can find all sorts of military band concerts, parades, ceremonies and services, etc. I’m not a veteran or a big fan of the military, but even I found much of it fascinating.

Also, Adams Morgan is (or was) the place to find all finds of interesting and yummy ethnic restaurants. Right in the middle of the city – no need to travel out into the burbs.

Asimovian, you know about Washington City Paper, right?

Yeah… summer is not the time to catch up on the museums and monuments.

The what, now?

Your hatred of winter and snow is not nearly strong enough! :slight_smile:

I live in Arlington and rarely go outside of DC/NOVA, so that’s what I know. I don’t know if they’re worth the trip unless you happen to be in the area, but I can’t recommend Pedro and Vinny’s and Bahn Mi DC enough.

Congratulations - you’re a DC’er now!!

There are lots of “Mexican” restaurants that are perfectly tasty but about as Mexican as I am (and the southernmost my ancestry goes is Alabama, 2 generations ago, so that’s not very much). A couple decades ago, I was on a long-term project in Orange County, CA. My husband came out for a weekend, and I took him to 3 different Mexican restaurants in 2 days. He grumbled, until he realized that the food was NOT all the same cookie cutter stuff, and was actually good.

We too rarely do touristy stuff unless someone is visiting, sigh.

Metro: hasn’t impacted me personally since my commute is 30 feet or less (I’m full-time WFH) but I know people who’ve been really messed up by it. Metro is fabulous unless it isn’t. Speaking of which, if you go in town for the 4th of July fireworks, don’t plan on getting on a train any time soon after they end.

Walking: Yeah, if you work in the city, you will walk a fair bit unless you happen to have parking in your office building. That’s a good thing though - good exercise, though it can be brutal in high summer or during the really cold snaps.

One thing I do love about the area is that you don’t have to go all that far to find good outdoor activities. A couple hours at most to the nearest ski resorts in the winter, similar or less to good summer rafting opportunities, lots of places to walk / hike and so on.

I want to second** iiandyii**'s restaurant recommendations. Pedro & Vinny’s is really good and easy to miss! They’re in a tiny trailer in between CVS and a splash fountain. It’s not too far from the Air Force Memorial (you can easily hop on a bus from one to the other), so it is worth a trip. You could make a day of it by catching a comedy show at the Arlington Cinema and Drafthouse but be warned, the food there leaves a lot to be desired. If you like jerk chicken, you cannot go wrong with 3701 Jerk Station right next to the Georgia Ave/Petworth Metro station. Their oxtail stew is very good, too.

Regarding the museums, the tourists are no more annoying during the summer than any other time of year, IMO. So go enjoy the museums, there are so many events and exhibits during the summer it’d be a shame to miss them. For example, on Friday, July 1st, the Air & Space Museum is having a free overnight celebration in honor of it’s 40th anniversary and the opening of the Boeing Milestones of Flight Hall. All Night at the Museum. And, all summer long the Newseum is free for kids 18 and younger. It’s a very good museum even for younger kids around 7-8 years old. The FolkLife Festival is a great event every summer, and later in the summer the National Book Festival is wonderful as well. Although sadly it’s not on the Mall anymore.

There is so much stuff to do around here that doesn’t involve tourist attractions. GregsListDC has a lot of stuff that seems to be geared towards non-child friendly activities, while Kid Friendly DC has lists of activities that are family-friendly. And during the summer you can’t seem to go 10 feet without running into a free outdoor movie. The city and suburbs are positively littered with them. DC Outdoor Films has a comprehensive list - everything from old classics to recent kids films are shown.

You should probably go down to the Mall for the show and fireworks at least once. I used to go every year for the first 5 or so after I came to the DC area. But be prepared not to get home again until very late afterwards. I once didn’t get in until about 3:30 am.

I didn’t make it through my first school break (winter holiday) before I developed a seething hatred of tourists. Running into them on the Metro is one thing, but the sea of humanity on sidewalks is blood-boiling. I make myself as small as possible and hug the right hand side as appropriate, but beyond that I will make no allowance for anyone coming in my direction who isn’t elderly. Last week I shoulder-checked 19 school-aged kids who were walking 8 abreast and many dozen deep on the sidewalk at the Pentagon. You’d think after the first few, the others would take notice- nope.

A great place to see the fireworks is on the grounds of the Soldiers’ Home. For the past few years, they have been selling tickets to watch from their lawn with proceeds going to the home. They’re food vendors.

The free weekly paper, found in boxes at Metro stations, and in stacks just inside various establishments. A good source for finding out about performances and events in the area, and occasionally essential reporting on local political and human interest stories.

Just give it up, man. You weren’t able to convert me, and you’re bitter that you lost—I get that. But I plan to continue wishing snow on “the DMV” for years to come! :smiley:

Where are the fireworks actually being launched from? My office building has terrace space available that faces the Mall, assuming the fireworks are shot high enough. That might be prime viewing without some of the crowd hassle.

I was unaware. I get the Post Express every morning on the Metro, and that’s it. I’ve never even looked at what other papers were in the boxes. Then again, we’ve been such homebodies since we moved here that I’m not surprised.

The fireworks are launched from around the reflecting pool in front of the Lincoln Memorial.

The last time I went, they must have misjudged the wind and allowed the crowd to get much too close. During the finale burning embers were falling like rain on the crowd, and people were screaming and running away. My friend and I just sat face to face and brushed off the embers that fell on our heads and shoulders. And somehow one of the rockets went astray and fired horizontally into the crowd, landing behind us and severely burning someone. This would have been somewhere around 25-30 years ago.

I never went down to the Mall for it again.