2001 Chevrolet Tracker SUV, 4-door, 6-cylinder, 4WD
It makes this “tink” sound on making turns, braking, and going over bumps. It sounds as if pieces of metal are snapping in half. It seems to be coming from the wheel wells.
I haven’t noticed any smells, or any difference in the “feel” of the vehicle. The only real problem is the noise. It’s pretty disconcerting.
Any ideas?
Worn break pads. When they get really worn (they may still work fine) they loosen up in the caliper saddle and have a tendency to rattle.
Hey Homie,
Is this more prevalent while turning? Make a tight U-turn, is this more noticable then?
What comes to mind is your front axle universal joints. I am not up on this model but it more than likely is equipped with CV joints. You could also look at the condition of the CV joint boots. although the boots would not cause this noise but could indicate as to why the CV joint is bad. The boots should be clean and dry. No oil/grease on them.
There could also be problems with the struts.
Greg
It’s the keys hitting the steering column!
Yes, definitely more noticeable on tight turns. I will explore the CV joint idea, thanks!
A shade-tree mechanic friend took a ride with us and confirmed that it is the universal joints. I’m pleased to report that they’re not very expensive.
Are these things that can be replaced by a competent shade-tree mechanic with a reasonably well-stocked supplie of tools? Or is specialized commercial equipment necessary?
If the noise doesn’t disappear while braking then it isn’t my first thought (brakes), it will likely be a suspension problem. Check to see if the noise suddenly stops if you brake and then starts again when you let off the pedal. Best to try this on a bumpy road when you aren’t turning.
On edit, I see you’ve found the problem!
If they are U-joints they can be simple and inexpensive, If they are CV-joints I have never found any to be inexpensive, and some specialized tools are needed.
Luckily my dodge Ram 4X4 has u-joints that do not last as long as most CV do but are simple as pie to change and cheep. The last one I changed was about $15.00 out the door. (my garage door that is)
It depends.
some U-joints are a snap. Others are a cast iron bitch. Rust can be a huge issue doing U-joints.
Maybe if Gary T stops by he can give you some more detailed information.
There are mixed signals here, making it unclear to me what the problem is.
CV joints =/= universal joints. For clarity we really need to use precise terms.
CV joints are used on the front drive axles. The typical symptom of wear is rapid clicking when applying power on a tight turn (e.g. parking lot turn), and it will come from the area of the front wheels.
Universal joints are used on the front and rear drive shafts. The noises they can make when worn vary, but wouldn’t be affected by turning. They are inexpensive compared to CV joints.
I’m inclined to think you’re talking about CV joints, from the description of symptoms, but saying they’re “universal joints” and “not very expensive” casts some doubt on that. (Of course, “not very expensive” is a relative and rather subjective term, easy to misinterpret.)
For CV joints, the repair is to replace the drive axles (a reman axle costs less than a single new CV joint, has both inner and outer joints reconditioned, has two new rubber boots, and is less work to replace than just a joint). This involves doing some front suspension disassembly, including removing the spring which needs to be carefully done so as to prevent serious injury. The details for your vehicle include some non-typical steps, so I would strongly advise reading a repair manual before deciding to do it, and using said manual if you proceed.
For universal joints, it can be challenging, sometimes extremely so, without a vise (or special u-joint press), but otherwise pretty straighforward.
Though youv’e obviously mentioned it, its kinda of hidden in all the other useful advice you’ve put in your post, so I think it should be repeated alone.
Suspension springs are DANGEROUS.
If you got really unlucky, you could probably kill yourself removing one. Serious injury like broken bones, severe cuts, loosing an eye or teeth would be quite easy.
If you don’t have the right tools and know how or at least good reliable advice, I’d leave those things alone.
Or, if you have spoke-type hub covers, it could just be that they’re loose and rattling on turns. Seriously. Please don’t ask me how I know.
I had an identical problem due to a broken wheel bearing. It didn’t sound anything like a CV joint.
I don’t know what a failing universal joint sounds like.