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Rick Bayless, a big time Chicago chef and creator of the Frontera brand, is an expert in authentic Mexican cooking. In an interview I read once, he said that people that eat his food usually don’t understand why it doesn’t taste like the Mexican food they’re used to. He said that the biggest difference between authentic and Americanized Mexican foods is cumin. American Mexican food is full of it.
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Robb Walsh is food editor for the Houston Press–already represented here by a link to his series on Tex-Mex. The series was expanded into The Tex-Mex Cookbook: A History in Recipes and Photos. In it, he recounts Rick Bayless’s visit to Houston; the Oklahoma-born Bayless wanted to include a chapter on Tex-Mex in his first book, but the editors dissuaded him.
Tex-Mex was invented by Mexican-Americans living in Texas. Many of the dishes descend from “street food”–snacks that do not resemble the “Continental” style food you get in Mexico’s nicer restaurants. The food of Northern Mexico is also an influence–lots of meat & flour tortillas, instead of the subtle, complex moles of Central & Southern Mexico. Other Southwestern states have their own versions of “the original fusion cuisine.” Outside the Southwest–good luck!
Diana Kennedy recorded some amazing recipes, but doesn’t care for the cuisine of Northern Mexico & hates “Tex-Mex.”
We’re lucky in Houston. We’ve got lots of restaurants owned by & patronized by recent immigrants–& smart gringos. Different regional styles appear. Northern food, of course. Plus food from Jalisco, Michoacan & the Yucatan; the latter is noticeably different from the others. We’ve also got some fine Mexican seafood restaurants–the Gulf of Mexico is nearby. But even the most “authentic” places have expanded their menus–Los Angeles burritos? Why not?
A few, more expensive, places serve the complex “classical” dishes like chiles en nogada–the same dish served at the wedding in Like Water for Chocolate. This stuff can be quite wonderful.
And we’ve got lots of good Tex-Mex places, serving more than the “Combination Plate.” Fajitas–marinated, grilled skirt steak served with garnishes–evolved from South Texas home cooking to a classic. Shrimp enchiladas? Why not? Margaritas out of a Slurpee Machine? Just the thing on a hot Texas day.
No “type” of Mexican, Tex-Mex, New Mexican, etc., food is really any “better” than the others. And they keep influencing each other. Then, there’s this dish found in some Mexican & some Vietnamese restaurants: Shrimp, butterflied & stuffed with cheese & jalapenos; wrapped in bacon; then breaded & deep fried!
Why is Houston sometimes called the country’s fattest city?