Dishwasher problem

Another fine product from Sears. Kenmore elite dishwasher 665.12783K311. Second time is has broken in a couple years. Now it starts to work, and gets through one wash cycle and then stops, with the start light blinking. Since it works for awhile, and I think stops at the same spot (although maybe not) I do not think it is the door close switch, but maybe. Anyone have any ideas about this? Or where I can find the repair manual. I found one online for the 2007 machine, but test mode is different.

That is not much to go on.

A search finds this, which is apparently the manual from 2013 - I have not downloaded it, and do not know if it’s the same one as your machine.

Good luck. If you’re at all unsure at any stage, call a professional, don’t fuck about with it.

Jiggle the high water float switch.

Anything here help? When my dishwasher went kaput, I used that repair forum to find the tech manuals and isolate the problem and managed to fix the dishwasher myself with an $80 part (completely different problem than yours.) If that thread on your model of dishwasher doesn’t help or describe your problem, just start a thread. It looks like the diagnostic mode for that dishwasher is 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 (hit any three keys in a row three times and then it should light up or something, and then close the door.)

Those links were great. I just figured out that the drain line was clogged. I had not noticed water coming out before. It seems most likely the two are related. Now to figure out how to clean out the line and see if the problem is solved.

Well, so much for my theory that two things would not go wrong.

Well, the problem continues. I now notice that when the dishwasher stops, and start/resume and washing lights blink and there is water in the bottom. Does this help in the diagnosis?

It sounds like the drainage problem, for certain.

Have you checked what that pattern of flashing lights means, as far as an error code?

Have you cleared all of your filters? Have you checked the pump intake, to make sure it’s not clogged?

When this happened to me (with a Kenmore Elite), it was a drainage clog. I did all of those things, and pulled the line and tried to clear it myself. In the end, it was much easier to call a local repairman. It took him less than 30 minutes to pull the panel, blow air through the line, clear the clog I couldn’t reach, and put it all back together. Didn’t cost that much either. It might be worth calling someone. Not Sears.

Are you certain the pump is actually turning? A defective drive belt (that connects the motor to the pump) will cause this symptom.

Also, there’s a three way solenoid valve (or a set of two one way valves) that control the water flow direction, ie: circulate or discharge. If the discharge valve fails to operate, it will leave the tub full of water and upon the next fill command, the washer will shut down because the high water level switch will open.

At first, when I did the restart the water would come out of the air gap thing. So I reamed it out from the air gap to the garbage disposal and it now flows where it should, so I know the line is open. What I need to figure out is what was supposed to be happening when it stopped. It seems that something is stopped or blocked and that sensor is signaling that and the cycle stops, but when I cancel and restart it will drain since it bypasses that sensor check.

Just pulled the sump filter and it was quite disgusting and clogged. I cleaned that out, and will see if it works. It was so gross that I am hopeful that will be the fix. Will let you all know.

Also when I do a check (press three buttons: 123123123) all the lights come on, all the front panel warnings come on, and there is no code at all, either blinking lights or a number on the front panel.

My hopes are dashed. Still stops in mid wash with water at the bottom. What else is there to check. I have no problem calling in a repairman if I need one but do not want to for something simple. I know lots of people who have called in a plumber for a broken garbage disposal when all it needed was a hammer handle and a thermal switch reset.

On my dishwasher (which uses the same sequence), what should happen is that all LEDs turn on. Then there is a pause for a second. Then all LEDs turn off. Then it goes though I think 4 intervals of displaying the last error codes. I don’t know what happens if there’s no errors, but normally, it takes a little while to cycle through the error codes. After it does that, it should go into the service diagnostics cycle. You should hear it spray some water and do a bunch of stuff, and at the end flashes error codes.

So, have you left the machine alone after all the lights went on? Did the lights turn off after you closed the door? You can also use the “start” key to cycle through the various test intervals.

But, like I said, might be best to ask on the repair board I mentioned before.

Just figured out that I did not know how to read the diagnostic codes. It blinks 6-4 which is the float switch is open. There is nothing under the float and it does click which is supposed to mean it is working, but I think I will try to replace it anyway.

Do be aware that the error codes don’t definitively diagnose your problem. The error codes that it was spitting out to me had little to do with my real problem. I think I code a door latch error and then some other random error, but it didn’t line up with what issues I was experiencing. I eventually looked through threads on that website, and even started my own thread, and narrowed it down to most likely being the washer motor and, indeed, that’s what it was.

Although in your case, at least the error code is lining up with your symptoms. Here’s what I see for a 6-4 code as possibilities:

  1. Overfill switch stuck in “overfill” position and/or dishwasher not level
  2. Drain hose check valve not sealing
  3. Fill valve triac on control shorted
  4. Fill valve mechanically stuck open
  5. Too many suds
  6. Open fuse to fill valve and other triac loads

This is from a technical manual for a slightly different Kenmore Elite model, but it looks like the diagnostics are the same. ETA: Yes, looks like it’s the same manual Teuton linked to above.

If you’ve made your way around to the float switch (post #3), use a meter to confirm it’s (dis)-function before tearing out/replacing it on a hunch. You may save some time and money that way.

First, thanks, I did manage to find the repair manual. Of the possibilities only the open float switch and the fuse match all the symptoms as there were no suds and the machine did not continue filling with the door open. And I have no idea what triac means so if it that I am screwed. I assume that some screwed up control panel, though not mentioned, could also cause the problem.

And testing the switch is a good idea but I am not confident in my multi-tester understanding and since the switch was just $15 dollars, and it is as much trouble to test it as to replace it, I will just hope for the best.

My husband has had great good luck with the website Justanswer.com - https://www.justanswer.com/appliance.

I believe how it works is that an actual appliance repairman steers you through your fix, and if the fix works, you pay a small sum to the website. Mr. brown has fixed washing machines, dryers, and our refrigerator with this website. We have it bookmarked.

I understand your reluctance, but it is really very easy. You’re going to be removing the necessary electrical test wiring if you replace the switch anyway so…trust me, electrically testing the switch before removal is much easier than mechanically replacing the entire switch, and well worth the effort.

  1. Buy a Harbor Freight multimeter for $10. Set the meter to “continuity” mode (read the instructions). It will beep when you touch the leads together. 2) Pull both leads off your float switch and connect one lead to one probe of the meter, and the other lead to the remaining meter probe. The meter will beep when the circuit is closed (complete) and it will be silent when the circuit is open (in-complete). You are looking for a difference in the “beeping” of the meter as related to the position of the float switch, so… With these meter connections being made, grab the float and move it up and down… 3) A properly functioning float switch will beep when the float is in the down position, and be silent when the float is in the up position.