Re independent auto shops - when we became weary of the local dealership’s upselling of maintenance work, we tried a local shop based on a friend’s recommendation. They were about the same cost for routine oil/filter changes. When we took one of our cars in for a brake issue, they took a look at what needed to be done, then told us the issue was covered under a special manufacture extended warranty as a known issue, and to take it to the dealer rather than have them handle it, because it would be free at the dealer. They didn’t even charge us for the inspection - so their honesty earned our loyalty with that one encounter, and we’ve been going to them for routine items and the odd check engine light ever since.
“Is my dealer ripping me off?” Yes, the answer is always yes. I wouldn’t recommend Jiffy Lube for the same reason, my local oil change place is cheaper and faster, and doesn’t upsell like JL has tried when I used it because the coupon seemed good. 30k is a little early for a major service, but some of these should be done.
Mazda has two schedules of service. The regular one is if you drive it like a granny, the Schedule 2 is better for most drivers. Look that up for your model, this is usually a 5000 mile/8000 km schedule. Assuming yours is the same as most Mazdas, there isn’t a whole lot of stuff you need to do (unless RX-8 or something).
- Replace engine oil and filter - yeah, that’s what you came for
- Air filter - cabin air filter is cheap stupid easy to replace. Takes 5 minutes, 4 of those is emptying the crap out of your glove box. Engine air filter is not much harder. 30k miles/2 years for cabin, 30k/3 years for engine.
- Inspections can’t hurt for major service.
- Get some lithium grease, DIY.
- BS
- BS
- Lift the battery terminal covers, look for rust or white battery gunk. Remove and wire brush if needed, there are various cheap greases.
- Other stuff: brakes should have life left, they’ll give you mm of life left.
No, no, no. Trusted local mechanic. Jiffy Lube does sketchy stuff too.
I noticed that if you have a service contract with the dealer, they wont do half the stuff on that list.
That last one should be routine and at no extra charge. Same as
Right, but checking brakes should be routine and no extra charge.
Yep- “Tru-coat” all the way there.
Sorry people are having problems with Jiffy Lube. They bought my local place but kept all the employees (all former students for the most part) so I never get any upselling. Just quick, efficient service.
But yeah, local is almost always better.
My biggest issue with places like Jiffy Lube isn’t necessarily the sketchy upselling (though a lot of them like to do that, too), it’s the questionably-trained staff.
I have a car with a manual transmission, and I’ve watched their staff drive my car poorly into the bay. But, more alarmingly, it’s doing their job poorly. I have several friends and relatives who had their cars damaged by Jiffy Lube, including my sister-in-law: she took her Subaru Forester into a JL for an oil change; when they drained the oil reservoir, they also managed to open the wrong cap, and drain the transmission fluid. A few minutes after driving away from Jiffy Lube in her car, the transmission seized up.
To add - I used Jiffy Lube on the regular once upon a time, but more than once I would notice a few oil drips on my garage floor the next morning. It was so regular I planned to keep an eye on it for a few days. The issue usually was they just didn’t tighten the new oil filter enough, which I easily took care of - which indicates they were in a hurry to charge me for the service get me out of there in a Jiffy.
Jiffy Lube also drained the ATF fluid on my Subaru instead of the engine oil. Yeah, they are both plugs and they aren’t that far apart, but come on! Last time I took that car in for an oil change or used Jiffy Lube. BTW, I could see the pink fluid being drained so I was able to get in front of that fuck up.
I installed a small ball valve instead of the normal drain plug and changing the oil became simple with no tools required (oil filter is up top and easy to replace). No more crush washers to remember to replace either.
I used Jiffy Lube regularly but not for a couple of decades. And when I did, I was the one driving my car into and out of their garage. (There was an open pit that you had to straddle so their technicians could access everything from below.)
The ones in my area, it’s 50/50 on if they want me to drive it into the bay, or if they want to drive it in themselves. YMM clearly V. 
To be fair, I’m sure you can find horror stories and just plain unsatisfied customers of just about any large business. Googling, Jiffy Lube has something like 20 million customers annually, in over 2,000 franchised locations. I’ll bet that some franchises are poorly run and some customers had bad experiences even at the good stores.
Known for upselling and not well trained people. They upsold me on a new air filter- which i didnt need. Note that the BBB is pretty professional on these things and
“Not BBB Accredited” .
I know I’m not typical, but I’m fortunate enough to have a lift, so I do my own oil changes. Over the years I’ve become rather anal-retentive when it comes to how an oil change should be performed, to the point that I’m not even sure most independent mechanics do a good job at it. As an example, I always use a torque wrench when tightening the drain bolt, but I’m guessing most mechanics won’t take the time to do that. I’ve also heard lots of stories where they either under-tighten or (more commonly) over-tighten the filter. Am also guessing some of them reuse the crush-washer for the drain bolt.
Years ago I watched one mechanic remove an oil drain plug at a quick oil change place. He went over, grabbed his pneumatic impact wrench, and spun off the bolt in 10 nanoseconds. He didn’t check beforehand to see if the socket would spin CCW, so I’m guessing he simply felt the position of the wrench’s selector switch. Which is stupid, because what if he had made a mistake and CW was actually selected? (Mistakes happen!) Plus, using an impact wrench to remove the bolt provides zero information on how tight the bolt is, and how “well” it unthreads from the threaded hole, which I think is important. (And God-forbid they use an impact to tighten it.) I always use a ratchet to untighten it.
Oil changes also give me an opportunity to check on things. Most of my drain bolts have a magnet on the bolt, so I’m able to evaluate wear. I also look for signs of coolant in the oil by inspecting the filler cap and simply looking at the color of the oil.