Dryer Repair: Getting the REAL Back Off?

In My Humble Opinion
1

I have a Kenmore Series dryer Serial #MM2620456 Type DWSR-ELE-2406028-CV54. It is probably a Whirlpool product. I need to pull out the lint chute that runs from the dryer top right front (when viewed from the front) to dryer bottom right back (still viewed from front). All Youtube videos shows the same simple advice, but my dryer is more complicated. In the videos, one simply unscrews the back held on by maybe 9 screws. But, this “back” seems to be just a heat shield. While this is sufficient to remove the back (without complications) on other dryers, my lint chute is held in place at the bottom back by a sheet metal lip coming up from the general housing that forms the sides* that seems to wrap around the back perimeter. What I mean is that once the heat shield is removed, most of the back is exposed, but the white outside wraps around the perimeter of the back of the dryer. So, there is a lip at the bottom of the dryer back preventing the chute from coming off.

Unless… Do they expect one to maneuver the chute to get it off without fooling with the housing?

2

I should add for clarity: Yes, I have removed the two screws (in the top surface) where the lint trap is inserted.

3

Sometimes you just have to keep disassembling. Take detailed photos so you have a reference to put things back.

I can’t give better advice without seeing the dryer. It sounds like the main cabinet panels need to lift off. Giving access to the dryer chute from inside.

Pretty easy on a Kenmore. Lifting the top may get you access without a full tear down. I know, it’s a PITA. :wink: Easy Servicing isn’t a priority with appliances.

4

Every washer and dryer I’ve ever taken apart involves taking either the front panel or a shell composed of the front, left and right side. The drum is usually mounted to the back.

Typically you have to first pop the top off. It’s likely held on with two or three spring clips. If you can pry it up a little, you’ll be able to see them and then you can work them with a screwdriver so the release. The top will pivot up and the front (or the shell) will come off.

5

I second popping the top. You need to take the screws out of the control panel in the rear as it will tilt back with the top and might bend. Then look into the crack where the top meets the body, there should be a spring slip at each corner. On mine I can slide a putty knife in there and tap the clip back to release it. Or maybe you pry it up, It’s been awhile.

Dennis

6

Thanks for your thoughts. In Youtube videos, I’ve seen what you speak of. I will take this approach to pop the top and (probably) the control panel, too.

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Success!!! With everyone’s advice, I solved the initial problem! I did access the lint chute from the top! I was able to remove the junk that fell in (and I will scream like a banshee if anyone in the family does this again!) Anyhow, there’s one last teeny-tiny problem. My daughter started this job (until the lint chute had her baffled) and she helped me re-assemble the dryer. Once complete, she remembers a 4"x5" metal plate* that she can’t recall where it came from! Could this plate cover where one end of the power cord screws into terminals on the back of the dryer? Any other thoughts what this could be? (Of course, a metal cover plate and electrical sounds like a bad combination.) In the meantime, I will check for an online parts list.

My main concern is I don’t want anyone getting shocks off the dryer because this plate is not installed.

*The plate is mostly rectangular with a straight, left side and an “arrow” shape on the right side. I’ll post a picture, if I can.

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Follow-up: My guess is actually correct! Sears shows an exploded diagram, and the plate is a “dryer terminal block cover”. Is this critical to safe operation? Bear in mind, the dryer is located in a basement that may be considered damp. (Plus, the dryer blows out humid air in the exhaust that is mostly contained in the vent line, but still I am sure it is not leak-tight from (what is called) “fugitive emissions”, in the least.

Your thoughts about the dryer terminal block cover? Maybe it tries to prevent corrosion at the terminals???

Here is a link to the picture, click on “Cabinet” (you may need to scroll down just a touch), then see Item 1:

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The rule to any home repair is that a job worth doing once is worth doing twice. Put the plate back on.

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Generally, I’d agree. In this case, I may disagree. Taking apart a dryer is a bit of a pain and if the only purpose this serves is to make sure bare wires aren’t exposed, I’d probably not spend the time taking it apart again. Especially if this was likely to be the last time it’s opened and/or the next time it’s opened you (and she) know that it has to be unplugged first because of an open j-box.

However, if that cover and/or the area around it has signs of lint buildup, I’d replace it, just to make sure nothing can get blown up there and short the terminals.

If you don’t take the case off without unplugging the unit and don’t touch the terminals next time you have it open (in case the motor has a capacitor), you’ll probably be fine. It’s not all that different from an uncovered junction box on your basement ceiling. Technically not correct, technically not safe, but in reality the chances of someone sticking their fingers in there are pretty low.

I’m guessing she removed that in the process of ‘taking everything off that can be taken off’. Unless it was in the way, there wouldn’t be much reason to remove it in the first place.
Having said all that, in a perfect world, yes, it should be replaced.