It’s incredibly small (smaller than my fist) for a converter that works up to 2 KW and weighs less than 2 kgs. Clearly it uses a switching circuit rather than a straightforward passive iron core transformer. I don’t see how it can pump out 2000 watts at that size and weight.
The fine print on the device itself reads:
Which is a bit of a bummer since that rules out a lot of things over 25 watts. I’m guessing that the output is extremely dirty when switched in the HI position, thus the caution against using it for sensitive devices. I won’t use it for my computer, but what do you think about plugging in a UPS/battery back-up into it and then plugging the computer into the UPS? I’m thinking the UPS will clean up the dirty power and the computer should be OK with that.
Not sure if you’re joking, but while that might deliver the required 340vpp output there would also be a large DC component that would cause anything you plugged into it to run very hot, and probably blow its fuse within a minute or two. Unless you also capacitively filtered the output, but that would require some enormous series capacitor of at least 10 thousand uF at 500v. I doubt a cap that size even exists.
I would but it has one of those ultrasonically welded cases. I’d have to break it open. I just might have to un-moth ball my o-scope and see what the output looks like in the HI position.
Yuk! So you get both halves of the wave, but egads! that will not just be really dirty, but will actually vastly exceed the allowable peak voltage for a 110 volt supply and would cheerfully exceed the design ratings of many 110 volt devices. Especially if you add in allowable supply line variations.
I would doubt that a UPS would survive running off one of these. Indeed any line conditioner would be dissipating a lot of energy trying to clip off the peak voltages and would probably exceed its design ratings doing so. Man UPS designs run straight through when supplied with power, and thus would not act to ameliorate the problems. A dual conversion UPS would avoid the issues, but again, I doubt it would be within its design ratings. For all intents the UPS would need to be designed to cope with a 220 volt input, since that is actually what it is getting, very dirty 220 volts. The converter isn’t in any useful way converting the voltage at all. Rather it is limiting the average power delivery to resistive devices. Which is a big difference.
Since you guys are around, can you answer a question for me ?
I just replaced the timer panel on my central heating burner.
It had what apparently is the “universal back plate”…6 terminations. 1-2 were mains live and neutral,that’s clear. The manual said if the device requires mains, you connect 2-4. The old panel had a connection between 2-5, 2 was clearly mains live, so I connected 2-4.
The only input from the burner/pump was 2 wires, crossconnected via a junction block to a red wire. I connected the red wire to 6 (the stated output from the timer,according to the manual), ordered everyone out of the boiler house, and replaced the fuses.
It worked, everything is fine.
My question :- where’s neutral for the boiler/bump ?