I just recieved a 1Hp farm-duty electric motor. Since it can be wired for 110 or 220v, it came unwired. I thought I understood the following markings (for 110V wiring) to mean that P2/T3/T8 were to be taped together, and line voltage could go in either at P1 or T2/T4/t5, with the negative wire coming out the other. I assumed reversing which was + and - would reverse direction of the motor.
P1 P2T3T8 T2T4T5
| |/ |/
Line Tape Line
However, the following lines confuse me:
“CCW rotation facing lead end
Interchange T5+T8 for CW”
What do they mean by “lead end?” Do I wire P1 or T2/T4/T5 as +?
I don’t care which way it rotates, shaft is on the right, and P1 goes into the manual overload protection if it matters.
Thanks for putting the code in there so it looks right. That was my WAG also, but “CCW rotation facing shaft end” to me seems more appropriate if that’s what they mean.
I’m going with that unless anyone has a better suggestion. Does anyone know if it matters which “line” is +?
One big ol’ but though… If you have any way to run 220 to it, do so. On 110, that thing is going to suck down 14 amps. On 220, it will only draw 7 amps. One HP is a lot to ask of a 110 volt circuit, especially if you plan to run the thing continuously. Another plus to running on 220 is that it will probably come up to speed faster.
Good to know for future reference, but for now I’m wiring it for 110. It’s for a chicken plucker I’ll only use intermittently (for 30 seconds at a time, 10 or 12 times over the course of a day, once a year - can’t get much further from continuous!), and I have no convenient 220V circuit. If I use it for other things, I’ll re-wire it.
They’re only slightly larger than a grocery store bird, but you can do 3 chickens or a turkey at a time. I tried using a bicycle for power, which worked fine, until a head dropped between the horizontal and vertical fingers. Then it would jam up. The bike provided plenty of speed, but no torque when you suddenly had a lot more resistance.
The website I am copying the design from reccomended a 3/4 HP Farm-duty motor, and said the 1 HP would work. I looked around, and the 1 HP was cheaper. I assume it must be more common.
Ok, so I screwed up and switched P1 and P2. :smack: :smack: :smack: I have no idea how I did it, but it ran great until it had a load on it, then it bogged down. The motor got really hot, and now will not run at all when wired correctly.
Are these P1, P2, etc. designations specific enough to diagnose what I would have fried doing this? If not, how can I tell what is wrong?
P1 and P2 are the terminals for the thermal protection, I don’t have a wiring diagram in front of me but you may have burned the start winding (bad) or the capacitor in the start winding (not so bad). Do you have a motor repair shop nearby? If it’s the capacitor it’ll be an easy fix (assuming it’s a capacitor-start motor).
ETA: normally there is a centrifugal switch which opens to disconnect the start winding at ~75% speed, with the line voltage connected at P2 the start winding might have stayed in the circuit once it reached speed. The start winding is not made to handle running currents.
Unfortunately, the nearest motor repair shop is quite far away. Paying someone to fix it is a last resort, because I’m broke, and on principle I hate paying someone to fix something that I may be able to fix myself for less. (This has gotten me into trouble more times than I care to remember!)
It is a capacitor start motor. Just to verify, the start capacitor is the big honkin’ one (~1.5"X3") mounted on top of the motor, right? I took the cover off that, and though there is no obvious physical heat damage, it sure stinks to high hell. I’ve sent an email to Leeson to find a distributor to sell me a replacement capacitor.
The main reason I asked about a motor shop is the ones near here are really good about letting you know whether you can fix it yourself or not. It may be different elsewhere but these shops are quite busy with industrial motors and it isn’t worth their time to work on smaller motors but they don’t usually mind giving some advice here and there.
If it still doesn’t work after replacing the capacitor you will want to ohm out the windings to see if they’re OK, assuming you have access to a multimeter. More than likely the capacitor will fix it I think but just in case…
