I’m having trouble finding a wiring diagram for wiring a double duplex in parallel.
I think I should have 4 wires under each wire nut (line in, line out, pigtail 1, pigtail 2). Everything I’m seeing has 3 wires under the wire nut (line in, line out, pigtail to receptacle group) and pigtails connecting the receptacles. Anybody know the code on this? Is their a reason I can’t do it my way?
Thanks
I agree with the second method, if I’m understanding what you’re doing correctly. The fewer wires in a splice, the better, IME. Is there a reason why you can’t just do line in to the first outlet, then a jumper to the second outlet? It accomplishes the same thing, without the splice and extra wires.
Thanks Chefguy, I agree having 4 wires in the splice gets a little bulky. I’m just trying to avoid having the second receptacle rely on power being carried across the first, but there must be a reason that’s all I’m seeing when I search.
It’s really a direct line, since the incoming power will connect to the top brass screw on the first outlet, which is strapped to the second brass screw below it, where your outgoing wire to the second outlet will connect. In effect, it’s a splice that creates a continuous line to the second outlet without any interruption. It would take a major meltdown to disrupt power to the second outlet.
Any reason not to run the upstream hot into one duplex, jumper over to the second duplex, then run the downstream hot out of the second duplex? No wire nuts at all that way.
Basically what I was saying.
If it is protected by a 20 amp breaker, with 15 amp receptacles, you need to pigtail them.
Here is a diagram.
http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/two-outlets-one-box.gif
FYI - It is SAFEST to turn off the main breaker for your house when doing any electrical work. (Instead of just one breaker for the circuit you are working on.)
This way removes all downstream power if you remove either receptacle. Instead, splice the line in, line out, and a wire to one receptacle, then run a wire from one receptacle to the other. The yellow wire nuts are big enough to hold three 14 AWG wires (typical for a 15 amp wall circuit)
I was taught to never be dependent on a device for a continuation of power flow to a downstream device. For the grounding (green) lead I think it is not allowed. Thus I’d do the circuit as described in Baffle’s post. Wire in, wire out, and a pigtail per wire nut. Jump from outlet to outlet inside the box. Twist the 5 grounding leads together in one nut. (in, out, box, R1, R2)
I agree with this. I don’t think it’s strictly required, but it’s good practice.
If you are talking about a wire from wire nut to first outlet the a second wire from the first outlet to the second this is a bad Idea.
But if you are talking about cutting the pigtail long enough to go from the wire nut to a screw on the first outlet wrap it around screw then to the second out let, that is the way to do it. This method will mean three wires in the outlet.
By the way when ever I am putting in outlet boxes I get the boxes with the larger volume.
only do this if you can make all the completion with one continuous wire from inlet to outlet. Using an outlet as a splicing point is looking for trouble. With the higher loads on the screws the chances of one becoming loose is greater. And any loose screw will cause problems with any down stream outlets.
Not required but good practice. Every 15 amp outlet on the market is UL listed for 20 amp feed through.
Correct!
Also I have found MORE problems with wire nutted connections failing than with screw terminal connections failing. The most failures being wires stuck into the back of outlets with spring loaded push-in terminals.
Of course if you do either correctly, then there will not be a failure. (Wire nut, screw terminal. Never spring-loaded if you want to avoid problems.)
Outlets which screw down after pushing the wire in the back are the BEST! Usually “industrial grade” outlets.