No. Except that the 2 outlets + the door opener are all on 1 20A circuit – if you had heavy loads on all of them at the same time, you could trip the breaker. Not a major concern.
About NM (Romex) inside conduit – bad idea, generally:
NM is designed to be open, for heat dissipation - less likely inside conduit.
NM takes up a lot of room inside a conduit.
It’s wasting money! NM is protection around wires, conduit is to protect wires – you’re paying twice for the same thing.
Exposed NM (”Romex“) stapled to the wall might have been legal in the 1970s, but I am pretty certain that it is not legal now.
I find myself thinking of how I would do this, and realizing that it wouldn’t to to try to instruct someone who has neither the proper tools nor the proper skills on how to do it.
If it was me, I’d take out all that NM. I’d use a metal box for the receptacle, and if the box on the ceiling is plastic, I’d replace it with a metal box. I’d then run EMT between those two boxes, and run individual wires in that EMT.
If it’s an unfinished garage, with exposed studs and joists all the way between the two boxes, then running NM cable properly along the studs/joists could be a reasonable way to do this, if you know what you’re doing. But I’d rather run EMT.
Almost any place that sells construction materials will certainly sell suitable wire by the foot. No need to buy 500-foot rolls, when you probably don’t need as much as fifty feet of each.
That’s a valid way to do it, as well. Make sure you use grey PVC, which is made to be used for electrical work. Other colors of PVC, meant for other applications are not suitable for use as electrical conduit. And use fittings as well that are meant for this use.
Also a valid way to do it, and of the suggested methods, probably the easiest for an amateur to do and get it right. Difficult to make it look good, if you’re running it exposed on the outside of a wall, but perhaps you don’t mind it looking a bit sloppy. EMT or PVC conduit is a lot easier to make look good. Just make sure you’re clear on how to properly install the connectors on each end of the cable. That’s the one area where I can see someone who doesn’t know what he’s doing, screw it up badly. There are a few things you need to know about how to treat the ends of the cable, and how to install the connector. It’s not at all difficult if you know, but very bad if you don’t.
And if you are replacing existing romex, you can always strip the outer insulation and paper wrap from it and reuse the existing conductors in a raceway. The limiting factor being the length of the conductors, but if I needed individual wires and had spare romex around, I would reuse what I could. Fun fact: a potato peeler from the kitchen is a pretty good tool for stripping romex.
If the boxes are less than 4-1/2 feet apart, the NM doesn’t have to be stapled. It does need to be supported (stapled) within 12" of a box, which shouldn’t be a problem.
I’m in Canada, our version of NM-B is called NMD-90 (rated for 90C connections). It doesn’t have paper inside but is still not rated for damp or wet use.
You’re in Massachusetts, right? Just fair warning, rewiring an existing box and moving it slightly may be OK as unpermitted DIY work, but installing a new box definitely requires a permit & work performed by a licensed electrician.
A petroleum engineer owned my house before I bought it (he was probably an engineer made out of oil, but he was long dead by the time I bought it from his widow, so I don’t know for sure). You think an EE doesn’t understand electrical wiring…
Anyway, at some point he finished the basement. Polarity on all of the outlets was random. About half the outlets were reverse polarity, which I fixed, replaced the one by the sink with a GFCI, and replaced any worn out receptacles.
For unrelated reasons I’m going to need to take some paneling down soon, and really dread what electrical aberrations I might find.
The original network closet in my office building was in a mechanical room that also contained a Chrysler V-8 engine, and was not climate controlled. There were 4 walls and a roof, but there were also permanently open vents in the walls for the engine, radiator, and exhaust. The engine was part of an emergency generator, but not one of those painted rectangular boxes you see next to hospitals, it was just a V-8 engine sitting on the floor with a generator where the transmission would go. The open vents meant that a huge amount of dust collected in the room and on all of the equipment.