Not sure how legal this is, but when I need to use a stranded wire with a screw head, I strip the wire, tightly twist the strands using my fingers, and then apply some solder to the tip of the wire. (Just the tip, not the entire length of strands.) The solder keeps the strands together. I then wrap the wire under the screw head, just as I would a stranded wire, and tighten the screw. The strands will stay put as I tighten the screw.
To clear this point up:
The motor terminals have both screw termiinals and 1/4" male spade terminals. I use a real ratchet-style crimper to apply terminals - on both solid and stranded.
The only time I still use a screw terminal is when doing house wiring - I insist on using 12 Ga; the outlets and switches are rated for 15 amps, so will not accept larger than 14 ga for back wiring.
(sticking the end of the wire in the hole on the back of the switch/outlet).
This is not an issue, as the only ground wire available is already solid, but:
The pump’s owner manual goes to some length to talk about grounding everything - including the rebar in the pool’s concrete - with 8 AWG SOLID core.
No mention of preferred wire for terminals.
Why does the ground loop need to be solid?
And, while we’re here - the control box for the pool/spa has a single 115 circuit, for the pool lights.
While I had the cover off, tracing the wiring, I decided to add an outlet. The circuit breaker on the 115 is a GFI model, complete with “push to Test” button. I tap the black wire and run it to a GFI outlet. It trips immediately. It will take an ordinary household outlet.
Next, I try to install a floodlight holder. It’s fine - I can turn it on and off as I like. Until I install a light bulb. As soon as there is any draw (a 60 watt bulb will do it), the breaker trips.
I happen to have an old dual 20 amp c/b with the cross-shaped slot the box requires. I cut one loose (only enough space for a single full-width c/b in the box) and hang it. The lights are happy, and I’ll re-install the GFI/CGFI.
What is so touchy about that circuit that any draw kills it?
I do not clearly understand the idea of bonding, if that is the answer.
edit ot correct yet another misspelling.
stranded wire might deteriorate quicker then solid wire, especially in a damp environment. solid wire will give the longest lasting durable grounding connection.
the loads served by a GFI breaker need to use both the hot and neutral from that breaker.
Do NOT ‘double up’ on GFI – like connecting a GFI outlet to a circuit that already has a GFI breaker. Or connecting a GFI outlet downstream of another GFI outlet.
No danger; it’s just that in practice, the leakage current is so small that they will almost always trigger each other. And even if they don’t, it adds expense but with no increase in safety.
The only time I use solid is with Romex or some MCC. I do not like the idea of using a splice piece on the end of any wire. By adding a splic and a wire nut you are adding one more connection that can fail.
Thanks - I was using the neutral buss.
Since it’s here, I’ll ;use the non-gfi c/b to power the gfi outlet - leaving a 20 amp circuit with 2 light bulbs and an outlet.
The ordinary outlet just didn’t look right in an external box - even if it was on a gfi circuit.
And using solder on stranded to create a hook - as long as the wire doesn’t wiggle, you’re good - but the point where the solder stops and the strands start is a stress point - the strands can move to adapt to a flex - right up to the solder - which is where a failure will occur.