My car (nothing special, and about eight years old) turns out to be one with a microchip in the ignition key, and an anti-theft ignition interlock system that won’t let the car start if the microchip code doesn’t match (oops, I found this out only after losing my key and finding that the cheap hardware store duplicate I’d had made, without a microchip, would not work). All of this has been a bit opaque to me because I bought the car used with limited owner’s manual type documentation.
But I do have the VIN and registration, etc. I was quite sure I could get some car shop, or the OEM dealer, to pop out a key based on the VIN, right? No such luck – the dealership now solemnly assures me the new key and the car both need to be “programmed” and to do this I need to bring the car in. As the car won’t start, of course, this means paying a tow truck to get it to the dealership, which is another $80 or whatever.
I have a strong suspicion this is all flummery, designed to tag me for a $200 “service call” on top of what they will charge me for the key and for the “matching” services. Oh, and I lost the alarm remote too when I lost my keychain – and they likewise assure me there is no way to supply a new remote without the car being on the premises of their shop.
Am I right? Is there any alternative to dragging my car physically down to the dealership (where I’ll probably have to wait two hours just to get it looked at)? Or is replacing a damned key really this tough?
Some cars can be an absolute nightmare if you lose the key.
Mine (French) has a little ‘scratchcard’ supplied with it and if you lose the key or remote+key, you have to take the card in and it contains the programming details for a computer to program a blank key/remote.
Without the card, half the electronics in the car have to be replaced and it costs an absolute fortune.
On the other hand there are a lot of dealers that will charge you around $500 to ‘program’ a new key and make sure you don’t see what they do.
A local dealer showed me how to do mine (F.O.C.) all that was necessary was to insert the key in the lock, turn it to the right, hold it for ten seconds until an indicator lit on the instrument panel, turn it to the left then back to the right until the indicator went out.
There are also independent operators around - there is one a few miles away that will cut a key and program it for about £10 ($18 approx)
You did not mention the make and model, but I can tell you for a fact that on many cars with chipped ignition keys you are not getting snookered.
On some cars the computer must be properly “introduced” to the new key. To do so requires the use of a diagnostic computer and a PIN from the vehicle maker’s database. Not something the local hardware store can do for you.
May I suggest you get an extra at the same time and keep it safe.
The new BMWs are a mess.
The guys on a repo man board I used to follow were looking at spending $800 everytime they couldn’t get the keys along with the car.
Some of them were going as far as saying, “Look, we’ll repo the car eventually… just give me the keys and I’ll hand you $100.”
Nope. I do not know where you live or what type and year of car. At my locksmith shop we tent to charge anywhere from 145 to 190 dollars to drive out and make/program the key. For most of the cars requiring programming. Such as Ford, Chevy, Nissan, Honda, and Chrysler. You should be very happy it is not an older Toyota with a transponder.
Anyhow, from the Vin number a key code can be obtained (and pin code if needed for particular types of vehicle) This is just for the mechanical cuts, not the chip in the key. Transponder keys have set “code” which is programed into the vehicle. Likewise the remotes.
Call a few locksmiths and see if they have the equipment to make you a new key. Some might be less expensive than the dealership. Or at least be equal to the cost (including towing) and they come out to the vehicle.
You saved me a fair amount of money – thanks. I was indeed able to get an independent locksmith to come out and make me two keys in about 20 minutes, for a lot less than the dealer/tow-truck would have set me back (but for more than you’re charging).