If an energy savings bulb claims to put out 100W yet only use 24W, as I recall from the package, how many amps is it pulling? Specifically, if my fixture is designed for 60W, is there a risk of fire by using a 100W equivalent energy saving bulb?
Extra Credit: Now, for the love of Einstein, please explain: How can a 24W bulb possibly produce 100W? (Yet, I admit, these suckers are bright!)
It’s not that the 24 W bulb is producing 100 W or light, it’s that the 24 W bulb produces the equivalent light output of a 100 W incandescent. It’s still only drawing 24 watts of total power, and it’s perfectly safe to use in 60 W max socket.
At 120 V, your 24 W bulb is drawing 200 mA.
It only uses 24W, but as the bulb is more efficient, the amount of light it outputs is equivalent to a 100W bulb.
To clarify: “100 W of light” is a bogus statement, like measuring your car’s fuel efficiency in pounds. If American consumers understood units of measure, they’d put something on the bulb about lumens or candela-per-square-meter. This table compares the brightness and power draw of each bulb. If you scan the packaging, there probably will be a brightness and color temperature listed elsewhere, letting you choose the kind of bulb you want. Don’t automatically assume you want to buy a 5100K bulb with 1,000 lumens just because you’re getting the most “brightness” for your watt – you’ll be unpleasantly surprised at how well it mimics the brilliant glare of the noonday sun. 
They usually do, somewhere on the package. And the language on the packages isn’t typically “X watts of light output” but rather “Equivalent light output to an X-watt incandescent” or somesuch.