For anybody who is interested, the return trip was a clusterfuck but ended well.
First with regard to my OP, the trains on the return trip had no first class and no reserved seats. This explains why I couldn’t reserve seats, but I don’t know why they marked the trip as first class, and I don’t know if I was charged appropriately. As you will see that was the least of my worries.
The first train from Münster to Enschede was fine. It was an intercity train, two cars.
Then at Enschede it was was posted that there was a switch malfunction on the line and the trains were only going as far as Almelo. This was only about 20% of the distance to Amersfoort. We met a British traveler on the platform who said she has been traveling in this area for 30 years. She was encouraging, but she didn’t know any more than we did about how to work around the outage. She was trying to get back to England on a 21:00 ferry that night, and her chances of making the ferry were not looking good. On her advice, we all boarded the train hoping to sort it out at Almelo.
At Almelo, there was really no way for a foreigner here for the first time to figure this out. The station was small, basically like a bus stop with a snack shop, with no information desk. We did find a uniformed train employee (not sure which line she worked for) who was trying to help and spoke excellent English. There was no estimate whatsoever about when the switch would be functional; she said it could be two hours or more if we waited for a train to Amersfoort. She recommended taking a bus to Zwolle and taking a train from there to Schiphol. We left the platform for the buses and tried to figure out where that bus would be and when it would leave. In that process we met another uniformed employee who said that would take too long and we’d be better off sticking it out with the train. We returned to the platform and once again talked to the first lady. She pulled out her phone which had basically all the cheat codes for the whole game, and started routing us. So here’s how we ended up:
17:48 | dep. Almelo | 18:06 | arr. Mariënberg |
18:16 | dep. Mariënberg | 18:38 | arr. Zwolle |
18:46 | dep. Zwolle | 20:00 | arr. Schiphol |
I was concerned about how that was going to work with how we were originally ticketed, but at no point on the entire trip were we asked to present our tickets. I wonder how much fare evasion there is.
Arrival at 20:00 was really not bad at all, only 1:09 late. The trip took five trains instead of three, but the time between trains wasn’t long. But the experience of trying to determine the routing was a nightmare for someone not familiar with the area or the train schedule. Trying to use Google or the train app didn’t work too well because it didn’t take into account the outage.
On top of that the first couple of trains from Almelo were really crowded, and we were each wrangling a carry-on and a suitcase. My wife could handle her own bags except for up and down stairs, so the trains involving steps were especially fun. To add to the comedy, there was a stop on each of the third and fourth trains where drunk, sweaty, rowdy football fans boarded after coming out of games, carrying their cans of Grolsch. They were good-spirited, nothing dangerous, but also not what you look for in an SRO shoulder-to-shoulder train ride.