I liked Tibet. I didn’t love Tibet. Maybe that’s a negative reflection on me, failing to discover what many people have done before me. Perhaps it’s because I read “Tibet Tibet”, or I’m just too cynical, but I don’t see the culture as something magical, or the religion as anything too special. The environment is breathtakingly, mindblowingly, beautiful in parts, but it’s an atrociously harsh environment, and many of its people are clinging to survival. Yet, for tradition, they make unbelievable journeys and sacrifices to perform acts worship. Some may see this as laudable spirituality, but it’s clear that many of them don’t know why they’re worshipping - they just do it as a function of their life - just a superstition. The religion is rebuilding itself after its suppression, but it is no paragon, infiltrated by the government and prone to corruption and opulence while its adherents scrape by at subsistence level.
As for the Chinese, what the hell do they want with the place? It’s a gigantic spiky desert up in the air. I guess they can exploit mineral resources (and no doubt the future holds the prospect of Himalayas bearing the scars of quarrying, as do many of the hills in China), as well as the “minority” culture of Lhasa, especially when the new train arrives. It’s also a geopolitical buffer between China and Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, part of the Great Game. The history of the intertwined nations has been distorted horrendously by the Chinese, but also by Tibet-in-exile - which also counter-claims huge chunks of ethnically Tibetan China - and propagandised westerners like Richard Gere.
The Chinese had no right to invade, the disastrous collectivisation of the nomads and farmers, and the mass killings and societal devastation of the Cultural Revolution, were unforgiveable crimes, but again consider that the government may be taking the long view: Tibet once conquered China as far as Xi’an; the Mongol emperors worked with Tibet and its religion to suppress the whole of China. This still doesn’t excuse the Chinese government’s recent behaviour, and the bullshit propaganda that they promote (Tibetans fighting British invaders in the early 20th century were “defending the motherland”), but don’t forget that many of those complicit in what has happened are as Tibetan as the Dalai Lama. There’s always going to be dissent - nobody on earth wants to be governed by an invader - but the Chinese government is never going to leave. One may only hope that somehow the dissent gets filtered into self-governance within the Chinese imperial sphere.
And how well is the Chinese government doing? They’ve managed to outnumber Tibetans with Han Chinese in major conurbations, and these people aren’t going to go anywhere soon. Though crudely and apparently dismissive of the culture in which they found themselves, they’re good businessmen and clearly stimulate the local economy. The government supposedly provides education for all, though it doesn’t seem to have had a huge effect - if seeing Tibetans use calculators to add 10 to 5 (and re-check the result), or subtract 50 from 100, or the woeful lack of initiative also evident in China, is anything to go by. The roads, while appalling, at least exist now, and the plan appears to be to improve them. Electric power exists in many places, and irrigation. Is this a good thing? I maintain that it is, subject to the avoidance of irreversible environmental destruction. Yes, it will change lifestyles, and probably the culture, irreparably, but don’t these people, scratching their way on the surface of the earth, deserve better? We spoke to orphanage workers who said that many of the “orphans” they care for are actually disabled children, abandoned by their nomad parents as there are no resources, nor cultural imperative, to keep them alive. Don’t they deserve better?
As for tourists - the Tibetans are undeniably friendly, moreso than the Chinese. But it seems to me that they neither need us nor want us. The tourist dollar won’t trickle down for a very long time in most places, if at all. We’re merely a hopefully benign distraction while people get on with other things.
Tibet strikes me as a nation that just wants to be left alone to get on with things, but the history of internal Tibetan politics shows that reform was much needed before the Chinese turned up.