I have an electric kettle that has a fake ‘whistle’ like the steam whistle you always used to get in stovetop kettles.
It’s actually triggered off the same mechanism as the shutoff switch. So if you switch the kettle off early it still whistles, even though the water might only be lukewarm. And it whistles from the base, not the kettle itself, which can also be a bit weird
Pretty sure it is fake; you get the exact same sound regardless of the number of bills being dispensed. I did google it and consensus was that it is played through a speaker, though none of those sources I would consider authoritative.
that’s also a requirement in the US per FMVSS 141. the feature is called AVAS (Approaching Vehicle Alert System).
it’s not fake, though, the output of the electric motor goes into a straight bevel gearset. Straight cut gears make noise. it does have the upside of not having the shear losses of the usual hypoid gearset, though.
That could be. If it is, it’s synchronized, in my experience, to the number of bills being dispensed. If I take out $500, I can count 25 clicks for twenty-five $20 bills. If I take out $100, I can count 5 clicks for five $20 bills. It’s reassuring nonetheless.
According to this review of the Harley Davidson electric motorbike, it does have an artificial vibration when “idling” to let you feel it is turned on.
“False” noises like the camera noise that cell phones make
Eminem’s “Lose Yourself” song (and countless others, no doubt) has clear artificial “gramophone stylus on a record” noise added. Clearly audible at the beginning.
Not quite the same thing, but everyone knows that sound a bomb makes while it’s falling, right? That sound isn’t inherent to falling bombs (or any other falling objects). The Germans stuck a cheap whistle to the side of their bombs they were dropping on London, because they figured that the panic from hearing the bombs dropping would do more damage than just delivering a few pounds of explosives to essentially random spots in the city.
yep. usually the tic-toc is produced by the little speaker inside the gauge cluster which does the chimes as well. what’s funny is that the tone generator in the cluster is rather simple and can only do so much at one time. I was in one car where the turn signal was on (and playing the tic-toc) until the door was opened, then the door chime played and the tic-toc went silent.
It’s not really nostalgia. As discussed on here, most railroads in the US require bells for safety. Mostly for when the train is moving at low speed, and don’t need the full sound level of an air horn.
Of course newer locomotives have electronic speakers, and they reproduce the bell sound because you generally don’t want safety warning sounds to change over time.
But they aren’t just collecting the actual engine sounds and amplifying and playing that through the speakers. They are just making up the sound electronically.
See the link in post #2. They started out with the actual engine sounds but now it is all fake.
My wife has a new Ford F-150 with the 6 cylinder Eco-boost engine. It sounds great inside the cab but sounds nothing at all like that outside the truck. Fake sounds produced electronically and sent out the speakers.
You might as well be a little kid using your finger between your lips going “brrrrb” for all the realism.
since this is in my wheelhouse, I’ll chime in here- there’s two ways companies have done this, either a mechanical device like the sound induction tube in the Mustang GT, or sound symposer in the Focus ST. this is simply a tube ducted from the air inlet duct to the interior, with a diaphragm chamber and some foam plugs for tuning. This works because the intake valves open with the same pattern as the exhaust valves and thus the intake “sounds” the same.
electronic Engine Sound Enhancement (ESE) tracks engine RPM (broadcast over CAN) and uses the speakers to selectively enhance the “better” aspects of the engine’s sound and suppress some of the less pleasant ones. it’s not really “creating” a different sound; it’s not going to make a V6 sound like a V8 or anything. The same hardware (with the addition of microphones in the cabin) is used for active noise control (ANC) in Lincolns and all hybrids.
Along the same lines as the Harley vibration (i.e., haptic feedback), large airliners (mostly Boeing) have a stick shaker to warn the pilot of incipient stall conditions.
The control surfaces of smaller, slower aircraft are connected directly to the control yoke or stick by pulleys and cables. When approaching a stall, the wing starts to buffet as the airflow separates from the wing. This buffeting is transmitted directly to the pilot’s stick, through the aforementioned cables. Feeling the vibration, the pilot knows to ease up on the stick to stop a stall.
Large aircraft are hydraulically-driven and so have lost that direct connection between control surface and control yoke. Hence the need for an alternative warning system. Airbus has a boring “Stall! Stall!” alarm. Boeing has a motor that physically shakes the control yoke - the stick shaker.
I have recently acquired a Mazda with this feature. I too found the indicator noise too quiet (and I have already accidentally left it on once, which I wouldn’t have done with a louder noise, and it could have caused an accident). Sadly, I found that it was already set to its loudest setting (of 2) :(.
They also had sirens on the wings of their dive-bombers, which would scream during the bomb run. They were entirely unrelated to their ability to deliver bombs to their targets; they were just to irritate the enemy.
I’ll note that when keying in a phone number on my cell phone, it makes the classic “dual-tone multi-frequency signaling” tone for each number. On old-school landline phones, those tones got sent down the wire when you pressed each key. On my cell phone, the phone number doesn’t actually get sent until I finish keying it in and push the “send” button - which means that these are indeed “false” noises that fit what the OP is asking about.
The confirmatory sounds made when pressing keys on a tablet computer or phone aren’t quite the “false” noises the OP is describing. They would be, if they sounded like an old-school mechanical typewriter, but they don’t; they’re usually just clicks that help confirm to the user that a key has indeed been pressed.
I don’t care for the shutter noise that my phone makes when taking photos. Among other things, it draws attention to me when I’m taking pictures in a public/crowded/quiet place, so I disabled it a long time ago. There was one occasion when I handed my phone to someone else to take a picture of me. He was expecting that shutter sound, and so he wasn’t sure at first whether he was actually taking a picture when he pressed the button. He ended up pressing the button maybe a dozen times before handing the phone back to me, and asking me whether he’d actually taken any pictures at all.
The deliberately engineered noise of a turn signal seems slavish. It’s accompanied by the usual tiny blinking indicator on the dashboard, and when driving at (noisy) high speed, or when the driver is hearing-compromised, the fact that the turn signal is on can go unnoticed for miles. ISTM a better design would scrap the audible indicator altogether and just make the blinking indicator on the dashboard very large, like half of the LCD display, so a driver would have to be blind not to notice the blinking in their peripheral vision. No doubt some would still manage to miss it, but I expect it would be less than what happens presently.