The minimum lift height, depends on the effect in the shell, which is controlled by the size of the break charge in the shell.
A tight Peony or Chrysanthemum shell needs less lift than a more open Dahlia or Spider shell, while a multi-break shell (typically, a large shell with many small shells inside it) needs greater still. This all depends not only on the size of the shell but also on the size of the stars, bees, crossettes, or other effects in the shell. The larger the effect, the higher the shell needs to be lifted, so that the effect burns out well before it reaches the ground. Also, the larger the break charge is the further the effects will be thrown from the burst.
The maximum lift height, depends on the lift charge and maintaining a safety zone.
You can put any size lift charge under any size mortar shell, within limits. Too big a lift charge can rupture the shell, causing it to burst in the mortar tube (or worse, rupture the tube), AKA a flowerpot. Too small a lift charge and the shell can burst shortly after leaving the mortar, scattering its effects all over the ground, AKA a muzzle break (this is a classic cause of display disasters where electrical ignition is not being used).
IIRC the rule of thumb is to have a safety zone that’s twice (or even 3 times) the distance of your maximum lift height from the mortar rack. (so if you maximum lift is 100 feet then your safety zone would be 200 or 300 feet). Or,The National Fire Protection Association’s NFPA 1123 Code for the Outdoor Display of Fireworks (2006 Edition online here), minimum safe distances with no wind; for vertical mortars 70 feet per inch of mortar diameter, angled mortars 50 feet per inch of mortar diameter.whichever is greater.
Strangely there don’t seem to be any guidelines based on the intended lift height, only the size of the mortar, but it’s pretty safe to assume that the lift will never be greater than ⅓ to ½ the minimum safe distance. Big reason for this, portable mortar racks are usually deep boxes (½ to ¾ of the length of the mortar tube) filled with sand. If a flowerpot occurred in a badly maintained box, blowing out the wall of the box and knocking over the other tubes or anything else changes the angle of a tube, there is the potential that a mortar tube could end up being aimed directly at the spectators. Seeing the burst is cool, being inside the burst ain’t!
Bear in mind that the higher you launch a shell the bigger it needs to be to get the same visual effect. Even if you can safely lift a 10" shell to 350’ it might look like a 5" shell at 175’ with the only difference being neck strain! There are reasons to do that though, a visually large, complex shell might look better at a distance. So you’d aim the mortar tube away from the spectators and lift the shell to a height that maintains the visual angle of the display. This technique also lets you get different visual effects from the same sized shell, or superimpose a small shell over a larger one creating an effect similar to a Petal.
RE jjimm’s Chrysanthemum bursts at Chinese New Year. Wiki has Japanese multi-breaks up to 48"
. That would suggest a 2,400 to 3,360 foot safe zone, SoS 1130 ft/s, so it would be easy to get a two or three second gap between seeing the burst and hearing it.
CMC +fnord!
Green Man/amateur pyro. Here’s a great site, Pyroguide, if any of the above leaves ya scratching your head (and ya didn’t click on the links!).