Fix my TV or use a monitor instead?

Factual Questions
1

This afternoon, my (CRT) TV mysteriously turned on by itself. Assuming I don’t have a ghost. There was a thunder storm, maybe there was a surge. Anyway I turned it off. Later, I turned it on to watch it, but it only stayed on for 10 seconds before turning off again. I tried again and noticed “Stop” and then “eject” appeared at the top of the screen (It has a built in VCS) in succession, followed by it turning off again. Now this happens every time I try to turn on the TV.

It seems as though the TV is convinced I’m pressing the stop, eject, and off buttons in sequence. But I don’t even have the remote control for the TV. Maybe it thinks I’m pressing them on the unit itself. It seems like a really odd error to be occurring.

Is there some easy fix? I tried unplugging it for a few hours to no avail. I didn’t notice any obvious degaussing button. I suspect bringing it to a shop would cost more than a new TV. Need answer fast! MY DVR is filling up… :smiley:

Assuming I can’t fix it, and assuming it takes me a while to tangle up a free TV from somewhere, can I use my computer monitor as a TV in the meanwhile? I have a cable box, so I don’t need a tuner. The cable has either analog style cable out, or RCA out which I assume is more compatible. The monitor is an older Gateway LCD with only VGA as input. I’m assuming this can be done, but I’m not sure how. I’d love it if it was as simple as a cheap adapter as opposed to kind of expensive conversion device.

I had trouble sorting through the Google results. My main two points of confusion were:

  1. that looking for an adapter, it seems as though there are plenty of VGA out to RCA in adapters (use your TV as a monitor) but it wasn’t clear to me whether there were adapters that worked the other way - RCA out to VGA in (use monitor as TV). Or maybe they are the same thing. But the wording made it sound unidirectional.

  2. A lot of the newer answers assume you have HDTV, which I don’t. I just have a regular definition cable box. And even if I did have HD, it seems that requires some sort of DRM compatibleness which I doubt my old monitor does.

I guess I’d also need some sort of audio RCA cables to speaker headphone plug adapter to get the sound working with my computer speakers.

2

I made the mistake of having a TV (CRT) repaired once. It was not an overly big problem but the repair cost about the same as a new TV of similar size. Obviously I would have been better off buying a new one.

I have no idea what the problem is with your TV. Maybe it is a $5 item that can be replaced in five minutes. I doubt it though. If you haven’t noticed TV repairmen are few and far between these days and I distrust the honesty of the few left to fix your TV for $20 if that is all it needs. Usually you need to send it back to the manufacturer so you have shipping costs and time and repair costs and so on. That is assuming they will even repair such a TV anymore.

There are adapters out there for just about everything. It has been awhile since I looked but my (vague) memory is the adapters are not all that cheap (for this my memory is around $200).

That may be cheaper than a new TV but it is kludgy and for not a whole lot more money you can get a new TV. Especially if you opt for a refurbished TV.

3

As a real, live TV repair person (almost 20 years), I can attest to the fact that there are not many of us left. I’d like to think the reason I’m still (just barely) in business is that I’ve always tried to be fair and honest with my clients.

Work has dropped off to the point that I would tackle a repair like the OP’s and if possible, price it the range of affordability.

A year ago, we would discourage the customer or downright refuse to look at these sets. Can’t afford to do that now. We even lowered our estimate fee on older sets to make the repair option more attractive.

You may find a tech to have a go at it.

4

For video, you need a video composite to VGA converter with the proper cables. Here’s one for $30. You might be able to find one cheaper.

Audio is separate, but no converter is needed. Route it to some kind of amplifier & speaker system like your hifi or whatever.