This a paper that was originally published in The Salad Bowl: The Magazine of the American Studies Department of Rutgers, the State University of New Jersey, volume 23, 1998.
Some formatting, like superscript and italics, did not come through in the conversion to “text” format. I didn’t think that it was worth the trouble to type it all in in UBB code. I apologize in advance.
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The Rise of Popular Vegetarianism in the United States
Vegetarianism has become commonplace. There are vegetarian sections on menus and in supermarkets, and vegetarian options in the college dining hall. A walk through the cookbook section of the bookstore reveals dozens or even hundreds of titles promising recipes for delicious vegetarian meals. Mainstream publications such as USA Today, Seventeen, and Better Homes and Gardens all have published articles about vegetarianism.1 Many Americans have become fully vegetarian, and many more have chosen not to eat meat very often. Yet only a few decades ago vegetarianism was practically unheard of -- only "health nuts" or people who followed a few unusual religions did not eat meat. The trend towards popular vegetarianism had its roots in the countercultural movements of the late 1960s.
Determining the number of vegetarians in the American population at any one time is extremely difficult. The primary difficulty comes from the fact that there are so many different types of people who call themselves vegetarian. A survey is necessarily biased by which of these people the researcher chooses to include as "vegetarian." Some studies might only want to measure strict vegans, who consume no animal products at all, while others may want simply to know how many people regularly choose vegetarian meals. Therefore, the biases and purposes of the researcher easily can skew the results of any survey that is attempting to determine the incidence of vegetarianism in the United States. The statistics about how many vegetarians there are vary wildly. A recent poll commissioned by the Vegetarian Resource Group determined that 1% of adult Americans never ate meat, poultry, or fish.2 In the related article, they report:
According to a 1991 Gallup Poll conducted for the American Restaurant Association, about 20 percent of the population looks for a restaurant with vegetarian items when they eat out. In 1994, a study commissioned by Land O’ Lakes reported that over half of American households ate two or more meatless dinners each week, and 20 percent of U.S. households ate four or more meatless dinners per week.
Also in 1994, the National Restaurant Association reported that on any given day, nearly 15 percent of the nation’s college students select a vegetarian option at their dining halls.3
Vegetarian Times has reported that according to two separate studies, about 7 percent of the American population is vegetarian. This figure includes semi-vegetarians, though, who eat meat, fish, or poultry occasionally.4 The market research firm HealthFocus found that 2 to 3 percent of Americans are strict vegetarians, but 24 percent is “vegetarian aware,” meaning that they purposely eat a more vegetable-based diet, but are not strict vegetarians.5 It is clear that at this time vegetarians constitute a significant minority in the United States. Businesses have responded to this trend. More and more vegetarian foods are being seen at regular supermarkets, and mainstream restaurants from Burger King to Howard Johnson’s have added vegetarian options to their menus.6
The first wave of popular vegetarianism in the United States occurred in the 1830s and 1840s as part of the widespread reform movement at that time. Sylvester Graham was one of the better known diet reformers. Graham felt that the consumption of meat, salt, and spices would cause sexual desire and passion, and therefore, should be avoided.7 His advocacy of natural brown bread led to the production of supposedly wholesome graham crackers. In 1838, the American Health Convention approved vegetarianism, and Catharine Beecher said that "The most injurious food of any in common use… is the animal oils and articles of food cooked with them."8 John Harvey Kellogg was an influential vegetarian in the later part of the nineteenth century. As a Seventh-Day Adventist, and vegetarian, he wanted to create a more convenient breakfast food. Corn flakes were the result.9 In spite of the efforts of the reformers, though, most Americans did not significantly change their diet.10
A meat-based diet remained desirable in the United States for most of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Since meat was expensive, having it was a sort of a status symbol. Those people who could not regularly afford meat felt deprived.11 By the 1950s, meat had become the most important feature of a meal. General post-war prosperity combined with advances in refrigeration technology and livestock agriculture had made meat more affordable and accessible to many Americans. The government encouraged meat eating. The “basic 4” food groups espoused by the United States Department of Agriculture were meat, dairy, bread/cereals, and fruits/vegetables. Each meal was supposed to include at least one food from each group.12 There was some vegetarian food faddism in the late 1950s and early-to-mid 1960s, but meat was still supposed to be the centerpiece of each meal. Vegetarianism was looked upon with suspicion. In this anecdote submitted to Vegetarian Times, David J. Austin tells of his mother’s reaction when she suspects him of being a vegetarian. "‘Dave,’ she announced with true concern. ‘I hope you’re not becoming a vegetarian.’ She paused before that awful word. It was common knowledge in Colorado in 1967 that vegetarians soon withered away from pneumonia or pleurisy or plague. For a growing boy of 14, it probably meant a quick death."13
By the early 1960s, however, the first step toward the widespread adoption of a more vegetarian diet had been taken. In 1962, Silent Spring by Rachel Carson was published. This influential book warned of the dangers of the pesticides and chemicals that were routinely being released into the environment. She linked these environmental pollutants to disease and death, especially from cancer. The book gets its title from the “fable” at the beginning, in which she describes the factors that have "…silenced the voices of the spring in countless towns in America."14 In the introduction to the 1994 edition of Silent Spring, Vice President Al Gore discusses the influence that the book had.
In 1962, when Silent Spring was first published, “environment” was not even an entry in the vocabulary of public policy…Silent Spring came as a cry in the wilderness, a deeply felt, thoroughly researched, and brilliantly written argument that changed the course of history. Without this book, the environmental movement might have been long delayed or never have developed at all.15
Gore credits Silent Spring with eventually causing the ban on the toxic pesticide DDT and other dangerous substances, and with starting the process that led to the formation of the Environmental Protection Agency. Silent Spring was instrumental in calling attention to the environmental problems that were plaguing America. Silent Spring, like the civil rights movement and the war in Vietnam inspired young people to question the values of the dominant culture and the damage that these values were doing to people and the environment. This ne