I’ve been experimenting with making my own grafting wax for grafting a few apple trees. It seems like a lot of the commercial waxes are quite hard and need to be heated. Not sure why, and it’s a nuisance.
Looking online, nearly all the DIY formulas I found are mainly made with resin powder. No hint why, or where you even get it. But nearly all of them seem to also use raw linseed oil and beeswax. Both of those are relatively easy to get.
Experimenting, I discovered that adding a little bit of linseed oil to beeswax gets me a paste wax that stays quite soft without heating. I’ve just tried it (we’re zone3 and have had a late spring); too soon to tell how well it works.
In the meantime, what’s the big deal with all the resin? What’s the point? Is there anything wrong with just beeswax and linseed oil?
My understanding was that the stiffer, you-have-to-melt-it waxes are an attempt to add some mechanical strength to the graft union, like a cast on a broken arm. The softer waxes may seal just as well but aren’t as strong mechanically. Also, a wax that’s soft in April may be downright liquid in late June. That may or may not be a problem depending on what you’re grafting and what physical stresses the graft may come under. The resin is a stiffener, assuming you’re talking about pine pitch and not something else. It also makes the stuff ‘stickier’.
Thanks Brossa. Hmm, I never even considered relying on wax for strength, all I want it for is a moisture barrier. I tape my grafts. But as for “pine pitch” – I dunno, those formula are useless for such detail.
Doesn’t resin hold some anti-fungal properties? Indeed, isn’t that one of the reasons it’s exuded by a damaged tree?
Possibly. It may also be to deter insects - specifically bees - from stealing the wax. Honey bees manufacture beeswax, but if they find a source of it ready-made, they will recycle it.
I presume “resin” is plant-derived in this case, and not epoxy or some other synthetic polymer?
If so, resin might help the graft and host grow together to create a functional connection. I don’t know much about the process in plants, but I’m thinking by analogy to wound healing in animals. For example, blood clots contain all kinds of signals that direct nearby cells to migrate, divide, and remodel the injury site.
Everyone I know uses parafilm and rubber bud bands.
Interesting. No wax at all? I would expect that to let the grafts dry out – our climate is extremely dry here.
I ordered something that is supposedly parafilm, and used it, but it’s very hard to get any tension. As soon as I pull it, it just gets long and skinny, no stretch at all.
It helps if you know that it’s usually calledrosin or colophony(it is a resin, but searching for that’ll mostly get you synthetic plastics) - and you can get it lots of places - it’s used by dancers, musicians, various sports, crafters, printmakers and other artists…
you could get it on eBay, from Amazon, hell, from Walmart, even.
Oh, and based on other things I’ve used rosin for, I’d say it’s primarily in the mix for its tackiness.
Thank you MrDibble, that’s very helpful.
It might be that resin keeps the oil from flowing into the graft and corrupting the union. I’ve had multiple failures that I suspect were due to linseed oil in the union from runny wax. So no more of that.
People are talking about using plumbers putty. Regular stuff uses mineral oil in clay, and i know it can stain granite. Debating using the non staining type that apparently uses silicone.
I also picked up some “pruning paste” that the manufacturer claims is great for grafting. Dunno.
But i sure wish i knew what was up with that “parafilm” i got that isn’t stretchy. Surely that’s not normal…?