Garage doors and their openers

Today the rod broke, the one that holds the spring that helps our single garage door to open and close easily. The guy I called said he had never seen that before, but he was pretty young. Also, the cable on that side was way loose, it must have unlooped around the spool a couple of times.

So the guy said I have to (“should”) replace the spring, the two spindles and wires on the ends, as well as the rod. He tried to sell me a new door, because our door is wood, and he said it is “heavy.” Their repair guy (not the guy who came around, who I guess in really in sales) is busy, but might be able to squeeze us in on Saturday. Otherwise Monday.

I thought the majority of garage doors raised by motors are wood. What is yours made of?

Have you ever seen this rod break, or had it happen to you?

The spring was adjusted when we got a new motor a few years ago, but that guy (one of the crusty old sort, different company, who is now apparently retired or out of business) didn’t say anything about the door being heavy. Was this a line (about wood doors being heavy) from this salesperson?

This equipment (spring, rod, cables, etc.) was in the house when we bought it 20 years ago, so it may be that it is due to be replaced anyway, or statistically past due. The expense comes at a time when we can afford it, but it’s still an unpleasant surprise.

Please tell me what you know about this subject, so I can comfort myself that i am not being had (or the opposite) while I wait for the repair guy.

Mine (house built in 1989) is metal, either aluminum or sheet steel. All of the houses in our neighborhood, which are the same age as mine or newer, also have metal doors.

I seem to recall you live in SF? Your house may be old enough to have a wood door. I would tend to believe the repairman that the door is heavy, especially if it broke the connecting rod. The only garage door opener failure I’ve experienced was when the cog seized up and shredded plastic all over my car.

I think you are talking about a spring balancer assembly. You can just replace the broken rod if this is the case. I have never seen the rod break before so I would look around and see if there might be a reason for it breaking.

So equipment that has been able to raise that heavy wooden door for at least 20 years (did you buy new construction or an existing house?) suddenly needs a lighter door to lift? Replace the opener, replace the springs, maybe upgrade & get an heavier duty opener for a relative couple bucks more but I see no reason to replace the door because it’s now too heavy if it’s otherwise in good shape. What I see a need to replace is a contractor who wants to oversell you.

Well, the guy is correct in saying that the wood door is heavy. Compared to aluminum or fiberglass anyway. But, if the springs are adjusted correctly it really makes no significant difference. The wood door might require more force to get it moving as there’s more inertia to fight.

But wood doors can absorb moisture with changes in the weather, even if the paint is in good shape.

My first garage door was wood back in '73. We had an electric opener and it worked fine until one of the springs broke and the door “racked” which loosened several of the inset panels. It was never good after that and I replaced it with an aluminum paneled door. That door had extension springs with one on each side rather that torsion springs commonly used these days.

I’m not sure exactly why but over the years I’ve learned a lot about garage doors and openers.

When I was growing up, Mom’s house had a cantilever door that pivoted when you lifted the bottom; your action was supplemented by huge springs on the sides of the door that pulled down while you pushed up. That thing was made of wood and it seemed to get heavier each year. I even told Mom it should be ‘getting lighter’ because I was growing up and getting stronger each year. When I started junior high school she had it replaced with another wooden door “because she was tired of breaking her nails on the heavy beast in the winters.”

I hadn’t thought of that, but the wood was obviously soaking up water during rainstorms and was that much heavier and harder to lift. The more it aged the more cracks it developed and the more those cracks filled with water during storms the heavier that thing got. The new door didn’t do much better, but aluminum or steel doors were more expensive at the time. A couple years after I graduated, though, the door slipped while someone was lifting it and Mom got a nasty bump on the head. A month later she had it replaced with an aluminum door.

The neighbor thought our new aluminum door looked nice and got one for himself. Then he had me help him build a frame to hold a garage-door opener and, naturally, I suggested to Mom that she get one. By then she wasn’t driving much so it wasn’t important to her.

Then there was this weird incident, during early testing of the AWACS planes, in which the planes flying out of NAS Miramar were somehow causing all the garage doors below the testing flight path# to open, but not close. Channel 10 News mentioned it as something funny at the end of a broadcast, but a lot of people were pretty pissed off and the Navy issued an apology with a promise to change their frequency. Mom said, “See! That’s why I don’t want a garage-door-opener.”

After losing our condo to the 2008-ish real estate bubble my wife and I moved to a rental house that happened to have a garage door and an opener. At some point I noticed the opener wasn’t hanging perfectly vertical where it was mounted and I notified the landlord, who told me not to worry about or mess with it. Three months later, the motor stopped lifting the door. I told the landlord, who realized it was her responsibility to replace it, and she coordinated the installation of a new one by Sears. When I was talking with the installer, he mentioned…

  • Aluminum garage doors are usually cheaper, stronger, and lighter than wooden doors now.
  • Most will be multi-sectioned in horizontal strips, with a torsion spring and cables assisting at the top.
  • Sears, Genie, Liftmaster, (and maybe) Chamberlain are different brand names slapped on the same parts. There will be different levels of quality and value depending on what combinations of cheap and expensive parts each brand wants thrown together. To my surprise, the old Genie remote controls for the dead opener worked perfectly to signal the Sears/Liftmaster unit that replaced it, so we had four and kept one in each car, one on my motorcycle, and one in the wife’s purse. We stopped using the front door to go anywhere.

When we moved to a different rental place, it had a garage-door-opener as well – and we would have had six working remote controls except that the wife figured we should leave the first landlord a pair of remotes for the replacement unit that Sears had installed.

We moved yet again to buy our own place and the original remotes for the first landlord’s dead opener still worked to signal yet another opener. However, the wheels on the aluminum door squeaked REALLY LOUD and the torsion spring was super grindy-sounding when the door was being raised or lowered. I had a garage-door specialist come out and he noted that the torsion springs at the top were pretty worn and rusty and the tracks on the sides were pretty filthy and all that tends to give the motor more and more fight as the coiled spring is helping less and less and the tracks are providing more and more friction. He cleaned things up and lubricated them, but I passed on his offer of a replacement opener.

Then I searched online for garage door parts and found a place that could sell me replacement torsion springs cheap. I splurged (for a cheapskate) and got a kit with the springs, roller drums, and lift cables, then spent a weekend doing the work for myself. After all, it’s not rocket science!

No, but it is physics.

Balancing a baseball bat on the tip of your finger is pretty simple and inconsequential. Balancing six 40-pound twelve-foot-wide aluminum panels so you can easily lift and lower them with the tip of your finger turns out to be not-so-inconsequential. I replaced the torsion springs by myself (and doing that properly is the most critical and most hazardous part of the job – it is NOT something to do when there’s nobody else at home) and replaced the rollers and cables alone as well. And I’m quite proud to say that everything worked smoothly and the motor had an easy time with the door right away.

It wasn’t until the sixth or eight time that something odd shifted and the door just stopped going up. The light on the opener was on, so it was obvious there wasn’t a power outage. I went in through the front door, through the kitchen and into the garage and found no obstructions or other weirdness going on. The thing just didn’t want to move. So I disconnected the lifter, shoved the door open, and parked the car.

Without the motor assist and even with the cables and torsion springs helping, lifting 240 pounds of wide aluminum panel (admittedly, the balance was supported by the wheels and tracks ) is still something of a chore. I could do it a couple times a day (and even then it would take me about ten minutes to get the door open enough to get a good grip on it to start) but it was definitely not a job to do by straightening the lumbar. Having spent decades in martial arts and bicycling, my quadriceps and glutes are pretty strong, so my technique was to set my back against the door, search for the bottom edge of the lowest panel, hook my fingers under, and use all butt-and-legs to get the door to start rising. Then it was just a matter of spring-tension and momentum – and praying I had used enough leg-surge so the door wouldn’t fall back down on me. After a week of manual operation, my wife just suggested leaving the car in the driveway.

I called the repair guy back and he came out to inspect everything. He complimented me on the work I had done and found the problem: A hair-line crack on the edge of a middle panel (right in the middle of its width, actually) that was letting the panel flex just as it was rounding the corner and going from vertical to horizontal. That flexing action was pulling the other panels out of alignment, causing a surge of motion that the opener was sensing (I never realized they were so sophisticated!) and the unit was designed to immediately halt operations when something like that occurred. [Better to avoid wrecking a car or squishing a cat, I suppose.]

So…

I could replace the one panel, which was stamped out with a design he hadn’t seen since the 1980s, but he was sure he’d never find anything close in his supplier catalogs. OR I could replace the whole set of panels with a new door with a modern style of my choice from his company catalog. Oh…but since it was past January, he had to comply with a law that was passed just the previous fall. It required any new garage doors to be installed with a modern opener – one with a built-in battery back-up system that will move the door a few times even during a power-outage so that residents won’t be trapped in their garage or unable to evacuate during an emergency or natural disaster.$

I sat on that until an annual bonus came in then replaced the whole bundle – motor, tracks, cable, panels, torsion-spring and torsion-bar. Unfortunately, the new unit doesn’t accept signals from the old remote controls. But I can live with that; they’re cheap and I got an after-market unit for the motorcycle.

—G!
#I guess the take-off flight path out was not the same as the landing flight path.
$Surely that was pushed through by the garage-door-opener lobbyists. It’s not like California has any kind of natural emergency that would cause a power outage – yes I’m being completely facetious.

That’s the most ridiculous law I’ve ever heard of. What if you can’t open the garage door in an emergency because the freaking opener has failed? That’s why every garage door opener ever made has a release cord that detaches the door from the mechanism so it can be lifted by hand.

Thanks for the replies. To answer a few questions:

House was built in 1949. I have no idea how old the current garage door is except that we’ve had the house for 20 years and it wasn’t new when we moved here. Pretty much all the houses in our neighborhood have segmented wooden garage doors. Our door is segmented, and we had a new, heavier-duty motor put in a few years ago when the old one gave up the ghost. I don’t know that there is any reason to believe that the weight of the door is what broke the rod, it is not at present clear how it happened. We use the garage door, and therefore the opener, a lot, as the main way into and out of the house, for various reasons but (for me) mostly because the inside stair is a lot safer and easier to navigate than the front stairs and the front door, and because the area where I spend most of my time is on the street level (main living is upstairs).

dont ask me how it happened but when cable boxes were still newish things we found out that my uncle’s garage door opener could turn neighbors’ tv channels if you got close enough … provided hours of merriment for us benign hoodlums …

Heh. We had new garage doors put in a few years ago, just for aesthetics. There was a fluorescent orange warning sheet about not crushing kids with the door.

As soon as the installer left, I worked with a razor blade to remove the warning. He stopped by a week later to check on how everything was working. He tweaked some things to make them perfect, then he put new warnings up.

As soon as the installer left I again removed them, this time using Goo-Gone.

My gf’s remote needed adjusted and she called the guy instead of asking me. He stopped by, fixed her remote, then put up the third set of warnings, which are gone for good now. I told my gf not to call the guy no matter what.

The warning label might have been a regulatory requirement.

We had a multi-panel wood door, probably original to the 1960s date of the house. A few years after we moved in, we installed an opener, which lasted for about 20 years before we had a compete new aluminum door, tracks, opener, etc. replacement installed.

The wooden door was definitely heavier, and at one point the original spring wound around the bar at the top of the opening broke and was replaced. The main reason for the replacement was the deteriorating state of the door (and the need to regularly repaint it) and the opener starting to show signs of old age.

Totally agree, but how difficult is that handle to pull when there’s a car (or worse, SUV) in the garage? A short woman might have trouble reaching it w/o a vehicle in the garage but standing a few feet to the side would make it impossible.

-* I have an interior door from the house to the garage. Someone can lock the deadbolt on the door from in the house & there is no keyhole on that lock from the garage side. I have been locked out of the garage to house door a couple of times; however, either the front door was unlocked or I had a key on me so it was merely an slight inconvenience of using another door.

Our door has only been painted once since we’ve lived here, 14 years ago I think, and it’s still in good nick as far as appearance goes.

Is there any security advantage to one door material (aluminum, wood, fiberglass, or ?) over the others?

Just to reiterate, if the torsion spring is sized and tensioned properly it doesn’t really matter how much it weighs. DO NOT attempt to wind a torsion spring yourself. I’m a GC with a lot of experience in construction, and I call the garage door guys for that. Security-wise, none of the materials are going to be significantly different. If someone was REALLY determined, you could get through any of the materials pretty quickly with a Sawzall, but that’s not the MO for the average theif.

Thanks, I was thinking of more covert ways, like sliding a hook between two of the horizontal slats and pulling on the cord to disengage the opener, and opening the door by hand (this is one example I have a pretty good idea how to prevent, and also one where a heavier door would be an advantage to the homeowner, but there might be other covert methods).

Most garage doors don’t have a square edge–they usually have some overlap which would pretty much make hooking the track release impossible. Plus, the track release require a fair amount of pressure (WAG 30#) to release it. So, slim Jim, maybe. Coathanger, no way.

What can I say, I saw it on a youtube video (not a how-to video, but a how-to-prevent video). All you need to do is

details hidden out of prudence

snag the line and pull the loop a little way through the opening to where you can get hold of it and pull.

I’ve never tried it myself.

One of my kids was an apartment manager for a while (upscale with garages). I watched her do this very trick to enter a vacated apartment without keys. It’s surprisingly easy if you have a ladder. Just push in the top of the door and reach in with a hook. Easier of course in wider garage doors.

On ours, I shortened the release cord, removed its handle, and binder-clipped it to the back of the actuator arm, so that it’s almost impossible to snag. Also lowered the track to change the angle so that the arm is “pushing” outward against the door when closed (much harder to push inwards). In addition, the unit has a “vacation” switch so that it ignores RF appeals to open (we flip this at night)

For emergency exit, we have a battery backup in case of power outage, and we’re both tall enough to grab the release cord and rip it off the binder clips.

As far as repairs, I regard garage door springs with the same caution I use around sleeping alligators. That’s a job for the pros.

Slight hijack:

Isn’t that dangerous? Like…very dangerous?

I thought I have read that garage door springs have a lot of energy in them and if one breaks free it is bad news for anyone nearby. Even if people are not nearby to worry about they can cause a lot of damage.

I’m far from a garage door opener expert, but my feeling has always been that, as a mechanical device with moving parts, they are very prone to problems because of the weight they lift and general decay over time. Plus, the rails the door travels going up and down don’t remain smooth and clean because of their exposure to the elements.

And, yes, there was a wooden garage door on the house I bought, and it was definitely heavier than the aluminum door that I got to replace it. The less weight, the less stress on the assembly that moves it.