My friend and I were texting the other day and the topic of driving historic Route 66 (the “Mother Road”, from Chicago to LA). There are a few threads on the topic, but the most recent are something like 10-15 years old, so I’m starting my own.
We’d likely leave from Chicago (since that’s the traditional direction, and she lives there now). I want to do it sometime between this October and the following August - because we’ll both be 66 during that time. It will likely be during the spring / early summer because a) weather, and b) I’m likely to have some other surgery later this year.
So… must-see destinations? How long should we allow for it? (thinking 2 weeks total if we fly back; a couple days more if I persuade her to take the train back).
Springfield, IL: Cozy Dog Cafe is a famous Route 66 landmark. Skip it, the food sucks. There’s a limited amount of memorabilia in there but it’s not worth the trip.
St. Louis, MO: One of the most beautiful and amazing cities in the Midwest. It’s also a total dump. I’m not aware of any Rt 66 attractions, per se, in the town, but there’s plenty to see and do there.
Cuba, MO: The Wagon Wheel motel is worth a drive past to look at, I wouldn’t consider staying there. It’s in a kind of run-down part of town (OK, all of Cuba is run-down, but you get my point). Some beautiful murals in town that are worth a look. Don’t eat at Weir’s 66, it’s not worth it. Go to Missouri Hick BBQ next to the Wagon Wheel. If you want to take about a ten-minute trip out of your way, there’s the World’s Largest Rocking Chair.
Uranus, MO: A roadside tourist trap. Worth a stop if that’s your thing.
Springfield, MO: The Bass & Pro Shop is worth a visit, even if red-state outdoors activities aren’t your thing. I also recommend going out to the suburbs and eating at Lambert’s Cafe in Ozark.
Joplin, MO: Not Route 66-related, but definitely see the Tornado Memorial at Cunningham Park, 2409 S Maiden Lane. Fred & Red’s Chili on Main Street is to die for.
One of the Historic 66 routings through St. Louis passes a quarter-mile from my house . But you may prefer the one that follows Chippewa and stop at the historic Ted Drewes Frozen Custard stand.
To add to Hey Homie’s list, between Cuba and St. James you go through Missouri’s wine country, and there are vineyards you can visit and eat at.
What do you want to see on the trip? Take the two-lane roads that pass through every small town that was thriving back in the day, or follow the Interstates and jump off just for the landmarks? The trees in the Missouri Ozarks are beautiful scenery during autumn, but winding through them on what are now back roads can be slow going.
Ask me anything. I’ve driven it about two dozen times over the last 25 years. Just did a bit last week. What kind of stuff interests you? Old roads? Old old roads? Old bridges? Old cars? Food? Kitsch? Historic businesses? Modern reproductions of historic businesses? Abandoned businesses? Museums? Trains? trump signs? I can tell you about them all.
Start with places to stay. Tucumcari is only one city but they have at least three restored motels that are very nice: The Road Runner, the Safari and the Famous Blue Swallow. Book in advance.
I just stayed in Gallup in the El Rancho. Bills itself as the hotel preferred by Hollywood stars. The old rooms are small, and if John Wayne stayed there, I’m sure he had to step in the hallway to change his mind. The rooms are named after stars, and mine was the “Wes Studi”. It was a terribly mysterious room.
Stay in one of the two remaining Wigwam Motels – both are on the old Route 66, one in San Bernardino, CA and one in Holbrook, AZ.
Of course, the issue with these motels as that I suspect they’re in high demand, and would require reservations. So then you need to plan out exactly when you’re going to be in one of those towns.
I’ve driven a few sections out west but it was never our destination. Amboy Crater is right next to Rt 66 in Amboy, CA. Also right next to the famous (?) Roy’s Cafe. Also, Flagstaff has a funky downtown area along the route.
The Barringer Meteor Crater near Winslow AZ is really interesting. You have to pay to see the crater but the museum is free.
The Amboy Crater is an extinct volcano and is just a short hike from the highway. If
you are there in the summer I would strongly recomend that you not walk
out to the crater as temperatures can reach 110 degrees. Several people
have died despite the fact the highway and town of Amboy are just a short
distance away. When you return to your car from the volcano make sure
you are going north toward the highway. To the south there is nothing but
desert for 20 miles.
Barstow has the Route 66 museum and just to the east is the old mining town of Calico.
That’s all I can think of right now. If you make the trip let us know how it turned out.
We didn’t drive it, but we did hit some places on it for lunches as we drove West. In Winslow Arizona there is a statue inspired by the Jackson Browne song made famous by the Eagles. Right in front of a nice cafe also.
The important question is are you going to drive what’s left of the road surface or are you going to take I-44/I-40 and just get off on the business loops to see things? You can, for instance, get off I-40 in Tijeras, NM and drive a long section through Albuquerque all the way to Laguna before needing to get back on. (Signs will also happily direct you up towards Santa Fe on the pre-1937 alignment.)
Every time I’ve done basically Terre Haute to Albuquerque was a two day drive with an overnight in either Oklahoma City or Tulsa. If I was just trying to make miles from Chicago to LA on that routing I’d assume at least three, maybe four days just for driving without sightseeing.
Out in Williams, AZ, is the Red Garter Inn. A restored 128-year-old saloon & bordello, the ladies of the evening are no longer inside but some of the original graffiti still is.
The inn got a bit of help from Anthony Melchiorri in season 5 of “Hotel Impossible”.
Another multi-trip Rt 66er here. My two favorite stretches are from Kingman to Seligman and Oklahoma City to Joplin. I always stop in Seligman for a bite to eat at Delgadillos Snow Cap…just be ready for a prank or two if you ask for straws or mustard. One lesser-known but very cool spot I discovered on my last trip was the Paul McCartney sign just down the road from the Arcadia Round Barn. Also in Oklahoma is the Elk City Museum Complex that is well worth a visit.
I was a little skeptical of the World of Wildlife Museum in Springfield…thought it might be too much of a “Disneyfied” experience. But it turned out to be one of the best aquariums I’ve been to. And it’s co-located with the massive Bass Pro Shop “mothership” that has additional museums and displays.
I’ve lived in St. Louis. I’ve gotten frozen custard from Ted Drewes. I worked at a job on 12th Street and took the Manchester Ave. bus to get there. Didn’t realize it at the time, but I guess I have gotten my kicks on Route 66.
I’d wanted to drive Route 66 when I retired, but I haven’t had a car that’d make it that far (who am I kidding?!? I’ve never had one of those!).
So as a consolation prize, I took a train trip from Chicago to L.A. The Southwest Chief followed some of the same route but with no asshole tailgaters. The food was consistently great (I mean, if you can deal with thick, juicy steaks and salmon…), and I could stare at the scenery without being a distracted driver.
But I’ll be reading all the ideas here, because I still want to drive it. Maybe after I save up for a decent ride (Hmm, wonder if a kickstarter for a Rte.66-worthy car would work?)
Car rentals aren’t cheap (especially one way) but cheaper than a new car! My friend and I will likely rent a car; hers is small and if we take mine, my husband wouldn’t have transportation.
If you like animals, you have to stop in Oatman, AZ. A town dedicated to burros/donkeys(? )that wander the streets, sidewalks, and even the stores. Friendly beggars. Never saw my wife so happy.
. But you may prefer the one that follows Chippewa and stop at the historic Ted Drewes Frozen Custard stand.
