My GFCI would not reset. I took all load off, and it still would not reset. I replaced it, and it still would not work, so I bought a tester and it tells me I have an open ground. I am not sure where I should look to track down that problem.
Do you have a regular voltage tester? You’re going to need one.
The first thing I would do is pull the outlet off and make sure the ground is connected to the outlet. Then make sure the ground wire is connected to the box or to a green/bare wire that leaves the box.
Assuming it is, the next thing to do (there’s some shortcuts, but here’s how I’m going to explain it) is to disconnect all the wires and see if you get 120v from the hot wire to the ground wire. What about from the hot wire to the box?
Depending on those answers and what you see in the box upon a visual inspection, that’s going to decide how we proceed, but I’d start there. It could be something as simple as the ground wire disconnecting itself from the box or as big of a PITA as you having to hunt down a broken wire in your attic to see where a mouse chewed through it.
I do have a multitester. Probably needs new batteries though. Both the new and old GFI outlets have a ground screw, but neither had a ground wired connected. I thought that the GFI was in lieu of a ground wire. Should I connect a ground wire to the screw and then the metal box first, and see what happens?
While it’s always a good idea to have a ground wire going to a GFCI receptacle, a GFCI receptacle does not require a ground wire in order to function.
Let’s start from the beginning:
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How many wires are going to the GFCI from the circuit breaker box? Two (black and white)? Three (black and white and bare copper)? These colors assume you’re in the U.S., BTW.
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Are there wires connected to the GFCI receptacle that are going to other loads (other receptacles, etc.)? If so, how many wires are there, and what are their colors?
I’m not sure an open ground is the cause of the OP’s fault. I believe it’s valid to install GFCI sockets on two-wire circuits, leaving ground unconnected, and give some of the protection of both GF and proper grounding where it’s not available. I suggest the unit is tripping for other reasons - faulty, or a current leak.
Some GFCI types may use the ground as a reference, perhaps? If the thing won’t reset with nothing in the plug, there you have it. Sounds like you’ll need to spend a small amount of money at the hardware store.
Yes, the NEC allows a GFCI receptacle to be used when there’s no ground wire, though you must affix a sticker to the receptacle that says, “No equipment ground.”
If it’s a new receptacle, I would do this:
- Turn off circuit breaker.
- Use voltmeter to ensure no power is going to the receptacle.
- Install hot (black) wire from circuit breaker panel to hot terminal on line side of GFCI receptacle.
- Install neutral (white) wire from circuit breaker panel to neutral terminal on line side of GFCI receptacle.
- Do not connect anything to load side of receptacle.
- Turn on circuit breaker.
- Test the receptacle; plug something into it, and press test/reset.
If step 7 was successful,
- Turn off circuit breaker.
- Use voltmeter to ensure no power is going to the receptacle.
- Install hot (black) wire from load(s) to hot terminal on load side of GFCI receptacle.
- Install neutral (white) wire from load(s) to neutral terminal on load side of GFCI receptacle.
- Turn on circuit breaker.
- Test the receptacle; plug something into it, and press test/reset.
Possible, though I’ve never heard of one that requires a ground connection in order to function.
There are four wires going to the GFI, two black and two white. There is a ground screw, no ground wire.
This outlet also goes to a standing backyard outlet. This outlet has no load at present. It also goes to a light switch, which I have in the off position.
What would happen if I attach a regular outlet instead of a GFI. Would it seem that the problem has disappeared. Would I likely die of electrocution?
It does not seem that people were killing themselves before GFI became standard. Isn’t the circuit breaker enough of a safeguard?
Two things:
1)The fact that you don’t have a ground wire connected is why you’re getting the open ground error. So that’s that.
2)A question, do you know where this outlet is getting it’s feed from? IME, if you put a GFCI outlet on the (protected) load side of another GCFI outlet, they’ll pop each other be difficult to reset. Take a look around your house and see if you have any other GCFI outlets. Garage? Bathroom? Basement? Kitchen? Check around sinks, by the air conditioner in the backyard? Are they popped? If one is, reset it and I’ll bet that this one resets as well.
Also, make sure the breaker is turned on and there isn’t a switch controlling the outlet. It’s been a while since I’ve installed one, but I want to say you can’t reset it if there’s no power applied to it (but I might have that backwards and it’s that you can’t test it).
Either way, make sure it isn’t daisy chained to another one.
But the simplest thing is going to be to get a cheap voltage tester and just see if you have power coming into the box before you start tearing your hair out chasing this down.
This particular GFI is alone. I have others that are daisy chained, and after much frustration figured out I had to reset them all. But this one is by itself, although the wiring is weird because we had circuits attached after the fact.
Circuit breakers are there to prevent you from burning your house down.
GFCI’s are there to prevent you from being electrocuted if you have a tool with faulty wiring (bad insulation). If the case becomes live, and you are in a wet location (like the bathroom or outside), your body can become the easiest path to ground. The GFCI detects that and trips.
This makes it sound like it’s daisy-chained to another outlet somewhere. There are two ways to chain GFCI; you can run the source wires to the “line” connection of each of a series of them, which gives each socket independent GF protection. Or, you can run the source wires to the line connection, and connect ordinary sockets to the “load” terminals - all sockets from the GFCI down the line will be protected by the first one.
I’d guess you have a short or a ground fault on the output, “load” line, like this one:
So incoming power goes to this GFCI, then to another socket, and also to switched (porch or outdoor?) light? Or the whole chain is controlled by the light switch at the beginning?
GFCI is universally a good thing, especially with sockets near any kind of moisture, grounded metal or outdoors. Think of them as air bags for your house wiring - and yes, people used to drive without airbags. Not a good idea to relive those old days.
No. The circuit breaker prevents electrical fires from too much current. The breaker only helps if :
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The circuit wiring is in adequate condition to handle the ampacity it is rated for. That is, the wire and the splices are in good condition and not corroded, etc
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A big load, in excess of the circuit’s rating, is imposed for a prolonged period. If there wasn’t a breaker, the wires would heat up, melt through their insulation, and possibly start a fire.
Otherwise, it’s worthless. It won’t stop you from getting electrocuted and it won’t stop the wiring from creating a spark or faulty sections of that wire from catching on fire if conditions are right.
There is more than enough current going through the circuit to kill you, and a connection between the circuit, through your body, to ground probably won’t have enough current flow to trip the breaker. That’s what the GFCI does - it detects current not returning through the neutral wire, which means the current must be flowing through some other path.
There is a GFI outlet that goes to a light switch, and also goes to the outdoor outlets. The latter was added on, and does not go through the switch, but is always on to the outlets.
IME they seem to fail after a few years outside. I was told by an electrician that the tripping mechanism is sensitive to moisture buildup, and tends to increase “false positives” with age.
I think also that the manufacturing quality has declined, if you buy a cheaper one. YMMV
I recommend getting a few new ones, to have a spare to use, so you have a functioning one to work with and test the circuit.
:eek: 
I have two SAFE-T-CUT brand GFCIs at my house, 18 years old. Do they need replacement?
Is there a good way to test them? They come with a test button (and still “test” OK) but if the manufacturer is low quality, I assume they’ll design that test to make it easy to pass.
I believe that the test button, by law, must put the rated trip current imbalance (5mA) onto the GFCI outputs.
So, if it tests OK, it’s OK.
Plug in socket testers - like the one the OP used to check for an open ground - usually have a test button that will put a trip load on the line. They are cheap, well under $10. I’d use one to test any GFCI over five years old, just to make sure
For the OP - you say the GFCI feeds an outside outlet.
I’ve had outside wiring get “leaky” enough to trip GFCIs, so I’m guessing that’s what your problem is. It could be something as simple as an infestation of bugs or spiders in the box with the outlet, or the outlet itself has a surface current leak due to a mix of moisture and dirt.
What does the switch control, and why is it on a GFCI circuit? The same thoughts of spider webs and crud apply to the switch and whatever it’s controlling.