OffBeat is a free New Orleans paper devoted to the music scene. Their web site lists just about anything that’s playing anywhere in town.
I’ve been to the New Orleans jazz festival seven times, so I have a pretty good idea about the restaurants there. Here are some of my favorites:
Mr. B’s Bistro - yes, it has re-opened after Katrina. The Gumbo Ya-Ya and BBQ shrimp are excellent. French quarter.
Cochon - In the arts district. High-end Cajun with an emphasis on pork (as the name suggests). They make everything in-house, including ham and other cured meats. The best thing I’ve had there was the head cheese, which the chef sent out as a lagniappe.
Rio Mar - Spanish seafood. Excellent selection of ceviches. In the warehouse district.
Jacques Imo’s - Cajun. In the Carrolton district. Easily reachable by streetcar. Great food, young crowd, fun. Hard to get into during tourist season - probably much easier in July.
Palace Cafe - Creole. Less formal (and cheaper) version of Commander’s Palace. Crabmeat cheesecake with pecan crust is a signature dish. On Canal St. near French quarter.
Drago’s - Two branches - the one I’ve been to is at the base of Poydras St. Signature dish is char-broiled oysters. Not much in terms of atmosphere - huge and corporate-feeling - but food is excellent and unique.
Other fun things to do: Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World, where they build the Mardi Gras floats, has an enjoyable tour. There are a lot of good jazz clubs on Frenchmen St. Fritzel’s on Bourbon St. is a good club for traditional jazz (I’ve become disenchanted with Preservation Hall).
