Is the paint bad enough to obscure detail? Or is it just a really rough texture?
A question from the ignorant: wouldn’t paint thinner do the job without stripping the plastic?
I’ve heard good things about pine sol for getting paint off minis.
I’ve used Pine-sol on metal minis but I’ve heard that it will soften plastic.
Oh, for those who many be interested, a Warhammer 40K MMORPG has been announced. Although they make it sound more like an MMO Shooter, of which several have come out recently. My prediction is that it will be marginally interesting but go nowhere, as they will rely on an entertaining but cheezy license and underplay original mechanics.
Neither, really - worst case scenario, I figure I can prime over it.
Simple Green helped, but I think the paint is just semi-fossilized. Just spray-primed over a batch of ten - will see how that turns out.
And spray-priming succeeds. I’m now doing minor repairs on the ones that had bits broken or falling off - re-attaching arms, banner poles, et cetera; Once done, I can spray-prime the lot and start figuring out how I want to assemble them in squads.
One of my friends is moving out of state and has asked my roomate to ebay a bunch of his 40k stuff. It includes 4 old school rhinos, one still on the sprue as well as an old school predator and a new-style land raider. I am so going to get those when they work out the price. I figure they’ll like that since it will save them the time and expense of the auction and shipping.
Nice! I will definitely need to expand my vehicles collection later on.
That’s why I don’t even bother with painted plastic if I can help it.
Pine Sol is typically what I use. It’s not perfect, but it does a good job.
You heard right. Leaving a plastic model in Pine Sol long enough will indeed cause it to soften. Some of the detail may even melt away.
My secret weapon is methylene chloride, one of the active ingredients in Bix Paint Stripper. Just Google it and my user name.
Well, now there is already a role-playing game set in the 40K universe…
… but yeah, I’m not gonna hold my breath. If you ask me, Warhammer 40,000: Chaos Gate was the best 40K adaption to date, the awesomeness of Dawn of War/Dawn of War II notwithstanding.
See, I frequently paint separate bitz of multipart models separately, then assemble them and touch them up afterward. That way, I can make sure all the chest detail is done to my satisfaction before gluing the arms and bolt gun in front of it. I know this is not how the real masters like Tom Schadle (AKA “Commander Y”) or Natalya Melnik (AKA “Alexi Z”) do it, but I can’t even pretend that I’ll ever be able to paint that well!
Oh, wait… so you get first crack? Never mind, then. I was hoping to get my hands on that old Rhino that was still on the sprue!
Seem to have overlooked the critical bit of information - these are second-hand marines, already assembled. I wasn’t going to break them apart to paint them and then re-assemble them. In fact, whatever the hell the guy used to put these things together stood up to overnight soaking in Simple Green and then vigorous brushing - apart from a couple of models with broken metal-to-plastic joints, these things are rock-solid.
Seriously, I think some of them were heated and melted together. I’m not sure I could break them. I tried to pull one of the Terminators apart to see why they had moveable waists, but was unsuccessful.
My normal painting method for infantry (when it isn’t already assembled) is to assemble MOST of it, except the backpack and weapons - then paint, then attach the backpack and weapons.
I do the same. I paint the parts separately and glue them if it is a high detail piece, but not if it is just a run of the mill cultist.
I’ve got Ahriman in all of his four glorious pieces waiting to be glued when I get home this evening.
My 12 year old son purchased the darkangels starter kit a few months ago. It consists of two armies, chaos and dark angels. My disappointment is that the starter kit does not contain at least a partial codex so we can play with equal armies strengths. Is there a major need for getting the most recent edition codex? Or would a fifth edition space marines be sufficient?
I don’t know that starter, but I would think that it has all the rules for the models it includes, no? The 5th Edition starter box had a mini rulebook and a thinner book that had codex stats for the models within.
In any case, you could go with older edition codexes, but Dark Angels and Chaos Space Marines don’t use the Space Marines codex, they have their own. (Though the Dark Angels may be close enough..)
I would personally spring for a new full-on codex, either Dark Angels or Chaos.
After more than half of a can of spray primer, all but two of them (which I set aside for more extensive remediation) are covered in black, to about 95% effectiveness. The spray primer on top of the paint has dulled some of the armor details, but I can live with it - it’s mainly the little ‘grille’ patterns that suffered (such as over their mouths), and I can still make out their ridges.
I have set aside two tac squads and the Marine Captain to be painted as an original Codex chapter, to ally with my Blood Angels. I am trying to decide on a color scheme, name, and chapter symbol.
Some of the rest will become Sternguard Vets.
In other, unrelated news - I uploaded a couple of my marine pictures (posted here before) to coolminiornot.com, and am getting rated in the 4-6 range, rather than the 7-8 I expected. Those people are harsh!
Got my Heldrake built and primed brown.
Will start painting it tonight when I get home. I went with the Baleflamer in the mouth instead of the cannon because I want it to be more dragon/demon and less aircraft.
**Xander: **What’s the final paint scheme planned for the Heldrake?
Gamera: Go with Crimson Fists. A good opposing color scheme to your Blood Angels.
You forgot to provide a link, CandidGamera. 
… and Crimson Fists have chapter-specific iconography (shoulder pauldrons, sergeants, captains, etc.) and they can have the Storm Talon!