Two more things: The rainbow flag is the whipala, or flag of the Inca Empire. References to it being the gay pride flag are not welcome, so don’t make those to the locals.
If you see this in the street, but one. Condorito is our Archie comic, and Pepo our Charles Schulz.
It’s possible, but I suspect it also has to do with what you’re used to. Now I kind of hope Diosa eats some guinea pig, because I’m curious to hear how she likes it. It’s not bad, mind you, but I’d personally recommend going in with low expectations.
I ask because I have read a lot about the area. Is there much to see there? I actually saw a clip on YOUTUBE showing a beach! (The water was cold). Anyway, is the trip across the lake nice?
See, I think this is what I’m most looking forward to- just wandering around and finding pretty places to sit and people watch. I’m glad to hear that Cusco lends itself to this type of activity :). Any particular places you recommend?
No lie: while I was reading through your post, I had open in another Firefox window the email reply from the Ninos hotel, quoting me their prices for the days I’ll be there! The reviews seem to be quite good on Trip Advisor (third highest rated Cusco hotel) and I just can’t beat the price: $44 a night for a double. Did you stay here? Any particular rooms to request or avoid?
Interesting tip about the pizza! I’ll definitely stay on the look out for that. I’m totally open for restaurant suggestions, because I definitely would much rather go for the unique places, as opposed to the tourist traps. Let me know where you think I should try, please! 
I’ve actually read similar suggestions on various travel blogs and I think this is a great idea. When I brought this up to a travel agent at AAA (I’m not going through them because their prices were absolutely insane and the woman was wholly uninformed about . . .most things, as you’ll see) and the agent actually said, “Oh, I’d be careful about that. You know, being American in a third world country, I’d just not do anything on my own. I mean, unless you want to get kidnapped and stuff, really bad stuff happens down there.” :rolleyes:
I actually am a bit weird about things that have small bones in them (that’s what she said). Like, I don’t really like fried chicken because I think it’s just kind of gross with the bones all sitting there. Yeah, I’m one of those people. Anyway, if I could get guinea pig off the bone, I could probably enjoy it. If I have to pick at it like a chicken, I’ll probably try it, but I don’t know if I could make a meal out of that.
I also don’t eat any fish, so I’m basically going to be a Debbie Downer on your food suggestions! Boo.
Good to know. I figured that,at most, we’d take the VistaDome train the way there, but it seems like that isn’t even necessary. Is the Backpacker train comfortable and everything still? I’ve read that it’s different, but not terribly so.
Ha! How interesting. I’ll have to give that one a try, because I will absolutely do anything to avoid altitude sickness :eek:.
Definitely noted. I’m going to have to remember to take it easy if I’m feeling even remotely bad in order to minimize things.
Oh, duh! :smack: I should have guessed that, really.
See, I also read this before and I think it’s sounds like a great idea. I’m planning on studying a bunch before I go (I’m a big history nerd anyway), then I figure I can eavesdrop on tour groups if I’m feeling left out.
I read about this! How absolutely horrible for that company to make such a stupid mistake. Good Lord. Good information though- I’ll keep my hands to myself!
It looks like we’re shooting for August 5th through 9th, which is a bummer because it sounds like we’ll miss out on the festivities! Of course, we could always reschedule (haven’t booked yet!) if you think the new year festivities will be worth a view. What do you think? Is it a big fiesta?
I’m sure we’ll give it a try, but does it always come on the bone? Like I said in the last post, chicken is gross to me for the same reason. I can survive, of course, if that’s the only way it comes!
Great tip, thank you! I read that there are different kinds of cabs- some licensed or something, some not. Is this true? I guess some try to rip you off more than others?
I’ll pay full price to a sweet little abuela for something, just so you don’t feel extra guilty. Good deal? 
Thank you for the tip, though. I’ll definitely be using it. What can I say, I like a deal!
Like I said, I’m anti seafood, so I’ll be ok! I think my friend is, too, so we should also be good.
Anything else you’ve thought of? I am learning so much from everyone here!
Heh… there are many sweet little abuelas in the market, or at leas they were there when I visited. 
Aguas Calientes is one of my favourite places that I have been to. It is just a dusty little town but the hot springs are incredible. You must go to the baths, and when you do, please do me the favour of taking a picture down the valley, you’ll know what I mean when you see it. My camera crapped out at that part of the trip so I don’t have that picture…
Be sure to drink lots of Pisco Sours and if you get the chance try roasted guinea pig.
Others have given a lot of good recommendations. So I’ll just underline one thing.
Do not drink the water, unless well boiled, and do not eat anything potentially washed in unboiled water – like fruit, salad, etc. And brush your teeth with bottled water. Be very, very careful! We thought we were careful, but if I ever go back I fully intend to be fanatical about the water!
Why?
I did a four-day hike on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu with a nasty stomach bug. Gotta be one of the toughest things I ever did in my life. Worth it (oh, very worth it!), but wow… I felt like I was gonna die.
p.s. I was amazed at how peaceful and spiritual Machu Picchu was – even with dozens of other tourists crawling all over it. The power of the place is amazing and I would go back if I ever get the chance.
Not wanting to steal my fellow countryman Atomicflea’s thunder I can only add that you should bring an extra set of underwear.
The first time you lay eyes on Machu Picchu … sphincters go wild … it’s too bloody much.
Unfortunately, it’s been about 11 years since I was there, so my memory has gotten a bit hazy. It wasn’t hard to find pretty places, though. We stayed pretty close to the Plaza de Armas and just wandered from there.
The first night, we stayed in some random, fairly gross hotel across from a bar that played Duran Duran on a loop all day long from morning until night, then went looking for someplace else and found Hotel Ninos. We stayed there for several nights. The rooms were all the same, I believe, and were themselves nothing fancy. They’re built around a nice courtyard, though, which was our favorite part – it was a very pleasant place to sit and relax and chat with the other guests.
Again, all I remember is that when we chose places from the Lonely Planet book we were generally happy, and when we walked into the most obvious, accessible places (aka tourist traps), the food was pretty sub-par. We had the pizza several times, though, because it was both cheap and very good.
Yeah, that’s kind of dumb. I think there’s actually a lot less violent crime in Peru than here (or at least there was back when we went). We were told not to walk around at night and to be careful when walking around with our backpacks on at any point, because pickpocketing and robbery were real concerns, but beyond that we never felt unsafe. (It helped that we were poor students so it’s not like we were wearing tuxedos and top hats, but I still think as long as you have any common sense at all you’ll be fine.) Also, taxis were cheap, so it was easy enough to just hop in one when we had our packs or were out after dark.
Despite what Atomicflea says, I liked Arequipa, and you can see the Frozen Inca princess in the glass freezer. All the literature says how beautiful she is, but I tell ya, being frozen and mummified for 500 years really does nothing for your looks. Arequipa also has the crazy convent with all the Rubens paintings.
By all means, try the cuy. I thought it was really good, but I’m one of those people who’ll eat damn near anything. I got kind of alpaca’d out when I was there; every single place serves it. It’s pretty lean and a bit dry for my tastes. I ate ceviche all the time and never got sick.
Colca Canyon is pretty beautiful, but it’s a hassle to get to. I wouldn’t bother if I was pressed for time. Seeing the condors gliding up to within 25 feet of you and then disappearing down the canyon was pretty special. The pass to get there is about 5200m, and it’s the only time I’ve ever gotten altitude sickness (it was in a van, and pretty mild). There’s a town up there that claims to have the world’s highest Irish bar, where I had a Guinness. I suspect there’s a higher one somewhere in the Himalayas.
The Nazca lines are not as spectacular nor as large as you’d think. I took a Cessna plane flight up and the poor New Zealand couple in the back seat spent the whole time barfing their guts out. I suspect that most of the photos that you see of the Nazca figures are photoshopped to increase the contrast because they don’t stand out as well as in the pictures.
Alright, this is true. Like the chicle kids all over Mexico, right? Fine. I will kick an abuela, punch an orphan, and give my money instead to a small, feral dog. Or an alpaca. I do like alpacas. Happy now? 
From the sounds of it, I’m not sure I’ll be getting in the baths, but I’ll certainly take a walk up to see them! Assuming I’m not dying of altitude sickness, that is. And I’ll take your picture, promise!
I’m glad to hear so many positive things about Aguas, as many of the things I’ve read just describe it as an atrocious place. The pictures all seem so quaint and beautiful, though, I couldn’t quite figure out what was so bad! Again, I think it’s all expectations.
:eek: Ok, so it’s as bad as Mexico, then? I was under the impression that there was an off chance the water was bad, but it wasn’t as bad as Mexico. Good to know. I will stock up on bottles and carry them with me!
I think it speaks volumes about the beauty of Machu Picchu, though, that even sick as a dog, it still made a tremendous impression on you. I’m so excited!
Noted. Any other suggestions? Places to eat, things to see, stores to go buy crap from?
But why would you ever switch hotels? That first place sounds absolutely heavenly!
In other words, exercise the precautions any intelligent person would anywhere in the world. This is exactly what I figured, but that travel agent just seemed absolutely horrified at my suggestions. She knew next to nothing about travel to South America (yet was their South America and Europe specialist) and kept telling me I should go to Europe because it’s cheaper and safer. Yes, CHEAPER. I explained that I worked it out, all my in country transportation, hotels, AND entrance to MP would run just about $250 (and that was staying at the slightly nicer hotels) for 4 nights, 5 days. Then I told her about the airfare we found for $550, round trip, out of LAX. She scolded me about buying airfare online, “You never know all the secret fees they charge!!!” And then told me it was absolutely unrealistic to think we’d find a “decent” hotel for under $100 a night.
Of course, the crapholes she picked out for me were waaaaaay more gross than the ones I found online, but of course, they certainly were $100 a night and more.
Well, boo. By all means, they still sound like something I’d like to see someday, even if they aren’t that amazing, but it’s good to know I can bump them a little further down my list of “must see” things. Plus, I’m a total wiener who gets motion sickness (helicopter ride in Hawaii? Blargh), so maybe I should wait until they perfect Dramamine a little more
I went to southern Peru last year. The Sacred Valley/Machu Picchu/Cusco portion of the tour starts here and ends at the statue of the guy on the horse, but feel free to look through the rest of the pictures as well. My input:
General
[ul]
[li]The touristy restaurants have people who aggressively try to get you to come in, calling at you, shoving a menu in your face, etc. I found the most effective way of getting them to bug off was to completely ignore them, even more effective than telling them “no.”[/li][li]Second what was said earlier about water. I was pretty careful, but even I had a rough last day/plane ride back.[/li][li]Verify that your hotels have hot water. My accomodations ranged between spartan and pretty decent, but I always had hot water, cable TV, a comfortable place to sleep, and (a very basis) breakfast.[/li][li]Safety (this applies pretty much anywhere). I always use a money belt. we kept larger items in an anti-theft (Pacsafe) bag.[/li][li]There are markets everywhere. Don’t worry too much about finding places to buy things. You’ll find them.[/li][li]As you can see in the picutres, I also went to Arequipa, which I rather enjoyed, but I don’t think I’d try to fit it in to a week-long trip. Between Cusco, Machu Picchu, and everything in between, there’ll be plenty to keep you occupied. I figure you’ll also want to rest a little here and there.[/li][/ul]
Altitude
[ul]
[li]Since you live in CA, I highly recommend getting a few high-altitude hikes under your belt before you go to help you acclimate. You may be miserable on the hikes, but better than being miserable on your trip.[/li][li]I’ve found Excedrin to be very effective against high-altitude headaches.[/li][li]Cusco is the highest point on your agenda, at around 12000’. Machu Picchu is only at 8000’, so if you’re acclimated to Cusco, you’ll handle Machu Picchu just fine. Aguas Calientes is below that, though it’s very hilly.[/li][/ul]
Aguas Calientes:
[ul]
[li]Hot springs: I didn’t do the hot springs at Aguas Calientes, but I went to the ones in Colca Canyon. Very enjoyable and relaxing, and a good place to chat with people from all over the world. Bring a bathing suit.[/li][li]3-for-1 happy hour: That’s three drinks for the price of one, not one drink for 67% off, so be aware. I did enjoy Pisco sours, but I freakin’ loved the mojitos. Sorry, Peruvians![/li][/ul]
Machu Picchu:
[ul]
[li]At least bring a guide book with you that describes everything you’re seeing. There is a lot going on there.[/li][li]I recommend taking one of the first busses up (or hiking up very early) and having a lot of time there before it gets too crowded. Plus it’ll allow you to spend plenty of time there if you’re planning to catch the train that afternoon.[/li][/ul]
Cusco:
[ul]
[li]Even though you’re adverse to bus tours, I’d recommend taking a tour of the Sacred Valley (I loved Ollantaytambo) and/or the ruins around the city if you have the time. We actually stayed in Ollantaytambo the day before we went up to Machu Picchu and took the train from there, which shortened the trip considerably. Maybe a taxi ride to nearby ruins, but the Sacred Valley would be better with an organized tour, I would think.[/li][li]Definitely check out the side streets from the Plaza de Armas, but be careful not to go too far off. Looked like some neat spots off the beaten path.[/li][/ul]
By all means, go and see the Nazca lines. I’m definitely glad that I took the plane flight. They are pretty cool, but Nazca is in bumfuck Peru, and is a major pain in the ass to get to. I had the nightmare bus ride at 2 in the morning to get the fuck out of that town, after 2 buses had been canceled. At 6 in the morning some dickwad on the bus stands up and starts screaming at the top of his lungs trying to sell some herbal health pills and wouldn’t shut up for two hours. I almost jumped up and strangled the dude, but I’m not sure what the penalty for murder is in Peru.
I’m late to the parade, and just as well, I suppose, because I don’t have a lot to say about Cusco. But I went to Peru for the hiking, so all of the towns just seemed like way stations between hiking expeditions.
The Inca trail was a blast, even if there were too many people on it. Machu Picchu was just as impressive as you’ve heard. A guidebook is enough.
Even more interesting (to me) was our hike down into the Colca Canyon, and then our night-time hike out. We left the warm canyon floor at 3:00 am and hiked approximately 1000 vertical metres to zero Celsius temperatures at the top of the canyon (5:45 am). And then the sun broke over the mountain tops – instant warmth. God, I love that country! No wonder the Incas had such reverence for the sun, the stars and the mountains. There’s nothing quite like that sudden appearance of the sun over the mountains just when you need it.
Aguas Calientes was swarming with tourists. Otherwise it was OK.
Juliaca stirred my imagination. Many of the buildings are unfinished, with no roof, and rebar sticking up out of the walls. Apparently, if you don’t finish the building, you don’t pay tax on it. It’s kind of a black market, anti-government town, but we only spent a couple hours there.
The floating islands in Lake Titicaca depressed me.
No advice for restaurants. Everywhere we ate was OK. Alpaca is good, though it’s hard to look at one after you’ve consumed its cousin 
You’ll have a blast. As AtomicFlea said, take it easy your first day in Cusco to see how the altitude affects you. Physical activity is your worst enemy, but Cusco isn’t really all that high (3400 metres, I believe). As mentioned above, Machu Picchu is actually much lower than that, and Aguas Calientes even lower.
If ever I go back, I’ll hire a guide to take me to trails that are less frequented. The Inca trail was fun, and so was Colca and several other hikes we did, but there are plenty of trails way the hell out (and up) there – lots of non-technical stuff between 4000 and 6000.
My friend just emailed me and said he can only find that it’s $44 for a bus ride between Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu. I explained that this is incorrect- it’s $6 one way and $12 back and that you either buy the tickets in Aguas or Cusco. I’m right, right? I have no clue what he’s looking at.
Also, We’re obviously going in the busy season, so the trains are very booked. Is there any trick for getting the train from Cusco to MP?
Peru is an awesome place, well worth the visit but please beware of the following. I would like to put forward that in Peru jumping into any random taxi is always easy but not always safe. Myself (6 ft tall man in his twenties at the time) and 2 women got into a cab after dark, around 9 PM, and became victoms of a taxi cab abduction/beating/robbery.
Understand that in Peru it seems any automobile driver can become a taxi cab driver by simply putting a handwritten sign with the words ‘taxi’ on his dashboard. Many people might do that just to earn a little money on their way home from work or whatever.
At the end of a 3 week trip (in September 2001) where I used countless cabs my two companions and I entered a cab to get back to our hostel roughly 8 blocks away (in Arequipa). We thought it was the safe thing to do, rather than walking down the streets after dark. Anyways, our cab was followed by another car with the cab drivers accomplices. The driver pulled off the normal route into a dimly lit street and stopped. I was like, WTF but the guy was saying he thought that was where we wanted to go blah blah blah. Anyways, before 10 seconds had passed all 3 doors where we were sitting were opened and in jumped 3 guys jumping on top of us. I struggled but the guy behind me got me in a choke hold. The doors were closed and off we went on a ride out to the suburbs.
During the ride I struggled some more, resulting in escalating violence (pepper spray, beating on my head with some small metal club, further choking). I was searched thoroughly (they quickly found the money belt) and ‘asked’ to give atm passwords etc. I gave false ones, my companions gave accurate ones. Anyways, after about a 20 minute hell ride I was forcibly removed from the car and choked until I was unconscience. Woke up in some slums, managed to find a gas station and get some police help. Police reunited me with my friends and took us home. My female friends were also taken out of the car and choked until they passed out. They said they were not sexually molested. Police said it happened at least once a night.
To Be Safe, do not jump in any random taxi. Call a taxi company and wait until their car arrives. They may seem stupid because while you’re waiting 50 ‘taxis’ will go by, but it is the safe way.
Regarding the train tickets, I got mine as part of a customized tour package. I recall at the time being very glad I did so, since I’d read that they can be very difficult to come by. Maybe check the forums at frommers.com, fodors.com, etc. to see if people there have any suggestions.
The legitimate cabs in Peru are supposed to have an official seal on them. It was pictured in the DK guide on Peru. You should probably check that out.
The coca leaves were kind of a novelty, but I honestly didn’t notice them having any effect on me. I chewed them and had coca tea while I was there. Want to know what it’s like to chew coca leaves? Go find a tree with round leaves and chew a wad of them. That’s what chewing coca leaves is like.
Well, that just sounds like a freakin’ blast. I can’t wait!
And I actually emailed the people at Peru Rail and they said they are encountering problems with their new online system. She said that, apparently, when someone does a search, it’s holding the tickets and not rereleasing them, even if the person cancels the transaction. So, most things are showing up sold out when they aren’t. They were quite helpful an asked when I wanted to go an said they will email back with what’s available and how to confirm it. Very nice!
Rand McNally’s brother just recently returned from Peru…