I’ll be going to Peru during the first week of August with a friend. While we’re trying to do this on the cheap, I’m definitely trying to have a nice time. I do have the basics down (flying into Cusco, a night in Cusco, the train to Aguas Calientes, a night in Aguas, bus to Machu Picchu early in the morning, spend the day in MP, take the train back to Cusco, spend a night or two in Cusco, exploring, come back to America! Phew.), it’s proving a bit difficult to find tips, tricks, and little details.
I’m looking for ideas about what to see (especially in and around Cusco), where to eat, stuff like that.
Oh, I should mention that we’re not going with a tour group or anything, so it’s on us. I’ve heard that you can pick up a tour guide at the gate of Machu cheap, but I’m not even sure we want to do that. So, if you could point me to some websites about the area, self tours, etc., that also would be awesome (I’ve been digging around, but can’t find anything decent).
You don’t need a guide at Machu Picchu. I’d just wander about. If you don’t have a fear of heights, make sure you climb Huayna Picchu, the towering edifice behind it. It’s got a super sketchy hiking trail/stairway to the top and it is truly spectacular.
There are some ruins that are part of the original city of Cusco that are a hike or a cab ride up and out of town, along with a bunch of other famous Inca constructions up near the “head” of the puma that is Cusco. This is definitely worth a day’s adventure. I’ll try to figure out what they’re called, but anyone would know.
OK, check out the bottom of this website which outlines some of the spectacular stuff which is a long hike outside of the city of Cusco. I took a cab by a crazed Peruvian whose pile of shit car could barely make it up the hill. I had him drop me off I think somewhere around Puca Pucará and hiked back to Cusco. Don’t miss Kenko (which is a curious carved channel mound supposedly in the shape of a puma) and Sacsayhuamán (which I thought was supposed to represent the teeth of the puma that Cusco is modeled after).
You can hike pretty easily to Sacsayhuamán (1.2 miles according to the above website), but the trail up there seemed inundated by low lifes, and even I, a stupid seasoned traveler, was a bit unnerved.
Peruvian here. Lots of tips. Give me time, I’ll probably think of more. You’ll be happy to know even the bums hitting you up for money in Cusco proper speak English. The city makes a living from tourism, and they know it.
Bring layers. The temperature can go from windy and chilly in Sacsayhuamán to humid and hot in Cusco, which is *ceja de selva *(literally: the eyebrow of the jungle). Many many mosquitoes when it’s hot. Bring strong repellant and bottled water. My standard was capri pants, sneakers, tank top under t-shirt under fleece with hood. Gets cold at night.
Move slow. It is wise to plan at the very minimal 24 hours at the beginning of your trip just to acclimate. If you are not from a country with a high altitude, it’ll hit you like a punch to the gut: piercing headaches, nausea and debilitating weakness known as soroche. Although the locals will pump you full of coca tea (don’t drink it unless you’re sure water has been boiled), it doesn’t help once it’s on full-force. To that end, take it very easy the first day and hang out in your hotel or nearby. If you must walk up or down hill, then do so at a very relaxed pace. I was raised in Huanuco (also in the Andes), thought I was acclimated by day 5 in Cusco and made myself very ill the last day by running quickly to a kiosko (little drugstore-like shop) to buy some TP for the bus ride home.
2a. Everything is an uphill climb-both ways. If you’re travelling with someone not fit, think twice.
Bring your own toilet paper. The bus won’t have it, neither will the public restrooms. People will try to sell it to you.
You will be met at every turn by cute children with llamas in traditional costumes trying to get their picture taken with you so they can get your dólares. If you have a bus driver, get him to ask the price for you.
Eat cuy. Guinea pig was an Incan staple food. Also, if they still sell them at *Andes Grill *on Portal de Panes near the main plaza de armas (center square, it has the biiig church you should also visit), alpaca burgers are da bomb. Have some chicha morada, a drink made from purple corn and sweetened with apples and lime juice. Perfect on a hot day. At night, try La Tasca for hot drinks and a lovely, perfect view of the Plaza. Sometimes they even have a trio of guitarists. Don’t leave Peru without trying a pisco sour. When you drink it, you should insult Chile and reiterate that pisco is Peruvian.
The further from the center square, the cheaper things are. Also, the side streets in Cusco are beautiful, picturesque and worth the walk all on their own.
Don’t miss: Coricancha (COReeCANchuh). This old Inca temple had the Church of Santo Domingo built on top of it, and it is simply gorgeous. Also, go to the 12-sided stone on Calle Hatum Rumiyoc (Hatim Rumiyoc Street). It’s a stone on one of the walls of the city that has 12 precise angles cut into it, and the local indians tell you you can’t touch it because it steals the magic and power away, but they’ll let you photograph yourself next to it, which is extremely good luck. Depending on the time of day a guy dressed as an Inca makes the rounds here and you can have a picture with him for $$$.
Don’t exchange money at the airport. Rates are higher. Lots of places take dollars, but at a crappy rate. The BEST exchange rate is to take your Visa checkcard and use it at any ATM (make sure someone watches your back, we love gringos who go to the ATM at night alone. Don’t do this). Check with your bank to make sure you don’t incur any fees.
Any chance of a detour to the Colca Canyon / valley region? I thought that was pretty neat.
Also, there’s a badass Israeli / middle eastern cafe about 4-5 blocks off the main square in Cusco, but damn if I can remember what it was called over 3 1/2 years later.
Lucky you! We were there a couple of years ago, but did the Salkantay trek out to MP.
Aguas is a wonderful little town, I loved it there! Huyna Pichu is a must do as well if you have the climbing endurance and little fear of heights.
Another vote for Colca Canyon if you can make it out. We spent the afternoon watching a family of condors soaring through the canyon. Amazing.
Otherwise, all other advice, especially from Atomicflea, is great. Beware acclimatization though, I got altitude sickness and I wouldn’t wish that on anyone. I had thought one day in Cusco was enough, but it was not at all.
Twenty years back we hiked the Inca Trail to get to Machu after spending several days in Cuzco to get acclimated to the elevation. After 4 or so days of hiking, the view our final trail night as we looked down on it from our campsite perched on the edge of more ruins with the sunset behind is forever seared into my mind. It truly was a priviledge to behold.
We didn’t have guides and I think fared just fine. Do as much reading on it beforehand as you can and you’ll surpass anything a commercial vendor could add to the experience.
We hiked down from Machu Picchu and followed train tracks to Aguas the next evening evening and ate at a little pizza place for dinner. The restauranteur had an adobe beehive oven that he cooked the pizzas in and I remember an old 8 track player being on the shelf playing America’s Greatest Hits. I was with 3 old friends and 4 Brits we’d met hiking and while many good things have happened to me in the years since we went, it’s impossible not to look back on the experience and consider it one of the finest times in my life.
Enjoy your trip. Going to Peru was one of my favorite trips.
Just one thing… Bring more than one bra… and radiators burn bras. I blame that for not being able to climb Huayna Picchu. :smack:
When I went, I did get myself pump full of coca tea. I’m assuming since the water was near boiling hot when they first served it, that it was safe. BTW, I stayed in hotels the whole time (student trip sponsored by the government), and everything was paid, so I was going on hoping that they would have good water, and I never had to pay for my precious tea.
One downside I had with the tea was that it filled me up and warmed me up. Good thing, but then I’d dress in one layer less than needed, and then be cold and hungry 3 hours later while we were outside hiking or looking at the skies. Of course, the food I had was not good either. If you like your food, eat it, even if you feel full after having your cup (s) of tea. And wear the damn layers even if you’re not cold. You’ll eventually be cold.
Oops! Went to bed early last night then gasp actually worked at work. What is the world coming to? Anyway, I’m here!
No worries! I am a picture taking freak. I’m elated that my Blackberry is going to work in Peru and I will be able to randomly update my LiveJournal while down there! And, of course, I’m sure that once I get home, there will not only be an epic LiveJournal and Facebook photo fest, but I’ll make a post here, too. What can I say? I’m one of those people :D.
Of course, you are more than welcome to add me in LJ (if you’ve got one, that is)- if you’re interested in all my pre-trip ramblings, that is! (Link is in my sig).
See, I figured I didn’t need a guide. In general, guided tour-group-type activities are not my cup of tea, so I figured this trip would be no different. Then I started reading and most reviews said you absolutely had to have a guide. Of course, then I read more and it seemed that more. . .intrepid? travelers felt that with a little research and fortitude ;), no guide was needed.
I’m glad you’re suggesting the ruins outside of Cusco (or, on top of?). I’ve read various things about them, but I wasn’t sure if it was worth meandering over to. Sounds like it is totally worth the cab fair, assuming I’m not puking up my life due to altitude sickness.
Also, thank you for that site- I read the whole thing and it was tremendously informative. While poking through that site and Googling some of the things listed on it, I came across this book (The Machu Picchu Guidebook: A Self-Guided Tour) which seems great. It’ll be in the mail Monday, so I’ll of course know then. Anyone used this book before? Atomicflea, I LOVE your advice, so if there’s anything else you can think of, let me know. Trust me, nothing will be too mundane or too much- I’m a total info hog and am happy to get whatever anyone is willing to give me.
Honestly? I’m most concerned about the altitude sickness. I’ve always had issues, even with our paltry California mountains, ever since I was a kid. There’s nothing I hate more than that clogged up, gross feeling of pressure when my ears haven’t popped, but I’m trying to stay positive for this trip. I do plan on going to my doctor and asking about the various medicines made to help with altitude sickness, but my roommate’s boyfriend (a doctor) said that most of the medicines for that make you sicker than not. Regardless, I’ll still be talking to my doctor about it. Are there any other tips for dealing with altitude sickness?
Also, I’m not terribly concerned about the language or sticking out a lot- I’m pretty brown myself (most folks think I’m Puerto Rican, even though I’m Italian) and speak fluent Spanish. Of course, my travel companion is blonde, white, and doesn’t speak a lick of Spanish. . . so maybe he will present a bit of a problem! Anyway, I’m going out of my way to learn a little Peruvian slang (all found via Google, though, so who knows how accurate that is).
Alpaca burgers do sound bomb, what are they called so I can find them?
How far is Colca Canyon? The pictures look absolutely beautiful, though just from those, it reminds me a bit of California (what with the condors and such).
I really wanted to take a trip out to see the Nazca lines, but those are obviously way over and apparently costly to get to. In fact, it seems that going there would more than double the cost of our trip, so it seems like that’s out! :smack:
And that restaurant sounds great- is it the one linked to later in the post?
Yeah, the train seems like a long, but pretty ride. I plan on bringing a book, definitely. Do you (and all of you who have been, btw) feel it’s worth it to “splurge” on the Vistadome train or is the difference between that and the Backpacker so minuscule that it doesn’t matter?
See, I’ve heard so many conflicting things about Aguas Calientes! Some people say it is just an utter hell hole, some say it’s a charming little town if you accept it for what it is. The surrounding area is so beautiful, I don’t know how it could be as miserable as some folks say on travel review boards. I was looking into the Rupa Wasi Ecolodoge, which is a bit expensive, but supposed to have just fabulous views (and a great restaurant to boot). Anyone know anything about the place? Or have any hotel suggestions for Aguas, too!
And it’s official: I’m terrified of the altitude sickness. Awesome! Your pictures of everything are just gorgeous, though. lieu, I love stories like yours. I can’t wait to make memories like that! It’s going to be a blast.
Haha! You know, every single hotel I’ve looked at offers some kind of laundry service for a minimal charge. So, hopefully I wont have to radiate any of my bras!
Good advice, though, about the tea! I’ll keep that in mind for sure.
It seems to me that, after all the reading I’ve done, the folks who don’t enjoy their trip to Peru are expecting something entirely not what it is. I think if I go in with an open mind and all planned out, I’m going to have an absolute great time. How could I not?
Oh: what’s the weather like in August? First weekish, if it makes a difference. I’ve looked up online, but the annual weather reports seem to be. . . mixed.
This is a great trip, you’ll have a really good time. Cusco was our favorite town in Peru – it’s beautiful. We loved just walking around and coming across pretty little squares and overlooks.
Tips:
Machu Picchu is incredible. We also took the train to Aguas Calientes and then took the first bus up in the morning, instead of hiking the Inca Trail, and it was amazing. Definitely hike to the top of Huayna Picchu.
Where are you staying in Cusco? If you want a cheap place to stay that’s not gross, we really liked Hotel Ninos. It’s part of a foundation to help local orphans. It’s not fancy, but it’s charming and clean. (Very few hotels in Peru are fancy, and many are neither charming nor clean.)
Don’t eat at any of the restaurants right off the Plaza de Armas unless you have a specific recommendation – we found them to be touristy and subpar. The Lonely Planet Guide book had good restaurant information, so you might pick that up. Cusco had really good brick oven pizza for some reason.
Haggling is customary. Even though I felt like a dick demanding 30 cents off some little souvenir, I was assured that it was expected and we’d never get anywhere close to a good price on anything anyway.
Don’t eat guinea pig, it’s not very good. Basically, it tastes like what you’d expect a fat rodent to taste like. Not terrible, but not worth it apart from being able to say you’d eaten it.
We took one bus tour and it sucked. If you want to see some attraction/market/whatever, hire a taxi for the day. We did this for the Colca Canyon from Arequipa (I think it’s too far to visit from Cusco) just from a travel agency next to our hotel and it was great – driver and english speaking guide for not much more than the bus tour would have cost, and it was way better.
Guinea pig is served like roasted pig (on a stick). If you’ve had that, you’ve had something similar to what it tastes like. A bit salty. I don’t know if they still offer it, but when I went, I had cow (or ox, or whatever) heart. It was actually yummy.
Now, I was with a student trip and due to fear of fish contamination, they didn’t let us eat ceviche (raw fish marinated with lemon). I’m guessing AtomicFlea can give good recommendations or knows of some good clean place to try it.
The whole bra burning thing was stupidity on my part (but it makes a good story on hindsight). Just make sure you’re hale, healthy, and able to climb Huayna, that is my only regret.
Okay, let’s see… Scrolling through the rest of this…
–Here’s a link to the fancy windows. Not worth it, in my opinion. If you sit by a window the view is just as great, although I can see where some folks would enjoy it. If you are scared of altitude sickness, though, limit your time staring out the window. Constantly peeking above the horizon and scenery might make you queasy. I wasn’t sick, but my sister was. She was sitting facing the opposite way. Don’t do that, face the direction you’re traveling.
My uncle swore by this trick, and it worked for us: A Bayer aspirin in our belly button, held in place by crossed band-aids. By the time you take the band-aids off at night they have turned to powder.
I did the aspirin trick, took everything really easy (no enthusiastic jogging up the stairs, no running to catch the train, no jogging or working out, etc) and didn’t get sick until the last day when I was a moron and jogged to the store. Just be aware of it at all times, stop often and rest, and you’ll be fine. If you DO happen to get it, don’t even bother taking anything, it won’t stay down. Shut yourself in your hotel room and sleep and throw up. Don’t even try to go out. The next day you’ll feel better and you won’t get it twice.
The BEST thing you can do for this is rest the first day. Stay in. Drink coca, eat little. People get felled by soroche because of impatience. It’s avoidable, you just have to let your heart acclimate.
Hamburgesas de alpaca!
What else… Colca Canyon is over by Arequipa, I think. That’s a whole 'nother departamento and flight and hotel stay. Arequipa is on many tourist stops, but to Peruvians it’s the equivalent of Jersey. Cuzco is NY. Why go to Jersey?
Aguas Calientes is lovely and picturesque and just what it should be, but watch your purse. As a rule, nothing over the shoulder. Backpack to the front, don’t let anyone to close to your personal space, and if you have a hubby no wallet in back pocket. Don’t wear any jewelry that looks like gold and if you can, leave your wedding bands etc at home. These people are friendly and love tourists, but they are also very, very, very poor. They look for folks caught up in looking, so make sure you look around alertly and don’t space out.
Even if you don’t pay for a tour guide, there are so many walking around you can overhear whatever you need to. A tip: Don’t touch the sun dial. Some years back a beer company called Cristal filed a commercial there and they made a giant beer bottle that was supposed to sit on the stone next to the dial, and they chipped part of it off. This was waaaaaaay bad and the natives hated it, and now they have a zero-tolerance policy on people touching things.
Have your laundry done. It can get damp, so it might take some time for things to dry. We gave all our clothes over and handwashed our undies. Ironically it can also get very dry, so bring heavy lotion and lip balm.
Depending on when you go in August, the 1st is a Holiday (andean new year, san cristobal) and so is the 30th(santa rosa). You might see a procesión or dances.
Weather: August is THE most popular time of year to go (because of the Pachamama Rayni, new year) and because the weather is the best, 67-68. Cuzco is never just one temperature, though. Layers. It can nice one day and then hail, and Macchu Pichu is hot and humid. It’s the Andes.
My entire family thumbs its nose at you, sir. I’ll say this: most tourist restaurant cuy is bad and tough and it’s what they offer because they assume they won’t know the difference. The best cuy in Cusco is outside the city in Tipon. If you don’t want to leave the city just for that, try A Mi Manera. I haven’t eaten there but the fam says they make good cuy. My family makes it in a red spicy sauce, we call it picante de cuy, but you can also get it in a peanut sauce.
Taxis are the best. Ask the driver what he’d charge to drive you around for the day. Most know as much as a tour guide and can show you around for much less.
Buy bottled water in a bodega and keep it with you. The water at the tourist sties is ludicrously expensive.
About bartering… People expect latinos to barter. Peruvians look forward to the kind tourist that pays asking price if able. Again, these people are POOR. If you can pay the full price, do so. No bartering in formal stores, though, this is only good in markets. If you are in a marketplace and really want a beautiful oil painting and they insist on $80 and you only wanted to pay $50, insist you can only afford 50 three times and then say “Bien, ni usted ni yo: $65. Mi ultima oferta y me la llevo hoy día. Yo soy buena suerte.” Peruvians are superstitious and don’t like to feel taken advantage of, so splitting the difference and promising good luck usually gets me the price I offer. (I feel like such a traitor. Make sure you pay full price for something else.)
Cow/ox heart, anticuchos. Delicious if made fresh. First thing I eat whenever I visit, and last thing I eat before I go. If they ask if you want them a la inglesa, say no. That’s rare.
If you’re not Peruvian and don’t already have an immunity to our bugs, the only safe place to eat ceviche is in an expensive joint or club. I know where to go in Lima, but didn’t eat it in Cusco because it’s too far inland for me to trust the fish. I would ask your hotel staff and see what they say.
Lastly if you get poor: 3 soles for breakfast at Victor Victoria’s can’t be beat. Bread with jam, coffee and juice. For lunch try Polleria Los Angeles, yummy roasted chicken with fries for 5 soles or so and endless salad (NEVER EAT THE SALADS! )… If you see a Chifa, go. Chifa is Asian-Peruvian fusion and I have never had better fried rice in my life. Ask for arroz chaufa. Soy sauce is sillao, (SI-yao).
If you like your food, eat it, even if you feel full after having your cup (s) of tea. And wear the damn layers even if you’re not cold. You’ll eventually be cold.
Your pictures of everything are just gorgeous, though.
