Yep. And can make some really beautiful white exhaust!
It would explain the clanking noise. But even though it pumps coolant, it wouldn’t necessarily lead to a coolant leak, or explain why the engine suddenly shut off. (At least from a mechanical perspective. A modern car engine might not run if it gets erratic sensor readings.)
I agree, we’re just spitballing here. The REAL question is whether its a $2000 wrong or a $4000 wrong? Lots of labor for front of that engine repairs.
This is just an EXCELLENT torrent of guesses and observations! Thanks for the fun, everybody!
The mechanic took a first peek, and told me his initial impression of what we are dealing with, though it’s not his final diagnosis. Would you all like to hear his initial impression? Or should we not discourage all the fun spitballing?
He also said he hoped to get into it later this afternoon (I had had the car carrier take it to his shop without checking with him, as he was closed at the time, so there’s no scheduling to count on yet). I think it most likely I’ll have a diagnosis to post late today.
Water pump failure, thrown drive/serp. belt
Edit on further thought (I’m hedging): timing chain catastrophic failure leading to the above
Please post it under a spoiler tag. I’m very curious and would like to know.
I’m inclined to guess a timing chain failure. There are not many things that cause an engine to totally quit, and that’s one of them.
I’m going with Dilithium crystal decrystalization.
We can’t repair that even in 2025.
Which will require finding a nuclear wessel in Alameda to fix.
Hmm. Put me down for …
- Timing chain tensioner or guide (my best guess)
- Water pump
- Broken connecting rod (hoping not)
I’ll take “sucked a flock of birds into the engine.”
Caused by The Burn?
Lucky the vehicle didn’t explode.
Hmm, I’m thinking timing chain, too.
I really doubt that it is the timing chain on a Toyota engine after 12 years.
The purpose of the timing chain or belt is to connect the bottom of the engine where the crankshaft and pistons are, that the starter is trying to engage, to the top part of the engine where the camshaft, valves, pushrods ect. make the engine go pop, pop. Once the belt or chain breaks the bottom part will spin even more easily while the top doesn’t move at all. Hit the starter and everything will spin without firing. You can tell just by listening to the engine. Spins free and easy without a pop or sound. It spins TOO easy, because the top part of the engine is no longer connected to the bottom end that the starter is trying to get going. It is pretty obvious that only part of the engine is working.
The coolant leak you discovered may have been there for a long time and you just found it once you started looking. Water pumps on most cars need to be changed about 60k miles.
If you are a do it yourself kind of person: change the oil, look at the condition of the oil, and your coolant. Otherwise let the shop figure it out. My guess is that you destoyed the water pump, pieces went in a bad spot, and your engine may be fucked.
Or a long list ot other possible other things.
Naah, just reverse the magnetic polarity. Aye, it’ll jumpstart a starship every time, Cap’n.
Guess for OP: Like everybody else, timing chain, maaaybe just a tensioner.
A failied serpentine belt can make a lot of noise, but usually not what an amateur would call “clanking.” OP said “clattering”, and serpentines sound like that.
I don’t know those engines specifically, but something that blew up the ignition / crank timing sensor would have the same “spins but doesn’t fire” symptoms as something that decoupled the valves from the crank.
Very occasionally serpentine failures rip up a piece of wiring harness disabling ignition or injection timing or …
This is fun. If the OP does share any intermediate info, please spoiler it.
You should reverse the polarity of the neutron flow.
Different show.
To make an engine run you need four things:
- Gas.
- Air.
- Spark.
- Compression.
If you lose 1, 2, or 3, there won’t be any loud clunking noises, but the engine will shut off.
Whatever it was, the loud clunking immediately resulted in #4.
Here’s what the mechanic observed early on (as a spoiler, which I’ve never done before and hope works):
Water pump failed. Serpentine belt was gone. Some wiring to a sensor on the crankshaft was torn off. Good guess that these things happened in this order, the pump failure ruining the serpentine belt which then thrashed around and tore wires. LSLGuy describes these last two pretty exactly. No mention of timing chain.
I did not hear from the mechanic again after his initial observations, so no official diagnosis yet. More to come.
Hey, I said that before he did. Ok. Slightly hedged, lacked specifics
It’s thrown a rod.
Is that serious?