The easist way to get your colour is visit a vendor that supplies the local auto body shops and give them the make/year/model of the vehicle. They should be able to formulate for you on site, though you may have to purchase a minimum. Nitrocellulose lacquer is likely not available though acrylic probably is.
One could obtain a quantity of white or clear nitro and mix universal tinting colours to desired shade.Crotalus: Thanks for that. Printing it off.
Carson O’Genic: That’s cool. I rather like the ‘Deep Amethyst’ on my '99 Jeep.
Crotalus and squeegee got the shielding thing. Stew Mac sells copper shielding tape with conductive glue(no soldering!). Disassemble the guitar and line all the cavities with the tape and tie the grounds from the bridge, pickups, knobs, and switches back to the negative side of the input jack.
Depending on your pickup choices of course.
Bah. Every guitar builder should learn how to solder. It really isn’t that hard – get a soldering iron and some solder from Radio Shack, $20, and go to town. The secret is that you must use the iron to heat the wires hot enough to melt the solder. Nubees invariably stick the solder against the soldering iron, which melts and flows over the cold wires, and you get a bad solder joint. The solder must be melted by whatever it should bond to – the wires + the pot connector, or whatever, or it doesn’t work. This is not difficult to do.
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/showthread.php?t=420868
Here’s a thread on The Gear Page about Fender’s history of body finishes - since we have already touched on it in this thread, I figured a few of you might be interested.
I don’t have long to post right now - but finishes are a funny thing. As one buddy of mine said after I showed him this thread:
“Sure there have been changes in finishes over the years - but nobody told the sound coming out of the speaker to care”
Soldering is good, but trying to solder thin copper sheets together inside a body cavity can be a pain, so the conductive glue is a nice way to make it easier.
Fair enough, and point taken.
Great thread WordMan! I’ve been kicking around ideas for a similar project for years, but never really followed through.
I always wanted to try a mahogany body with a koa top for a full, lush hybrid sound, but never followed through. Bubinga or white korina are other great options. I have about 200 board feet of Pau Marfin as well. It’s an extremely rare wood here in the states and has a dense, fine grain. It’s also extremely heavy (think boxwood). My dream would be to incorporate a mahogany main with koa top and bottom with double binding and a natural finish. Something like this.
At any rate, I’ll be keeping an eye on your project, and let me know if I can help with anything.
Cool, thanks Euth! Love that double-bound body. And I will absolutely reach out via the thread when I hit snags or need input on decisions.
I am away on vacation for a bit, but will likely get online during that time. But I will start a new thread when the neck arrives…