I’m assembling a Harbor Freight Trailer model 94564. I’m at the stage where I need to install the hubs to the axle. The wheel bearings were greased and installed in the hub at the factory including the inner grease seal.
The owner’s manual states (more like warns) that the wheel bearings must be removed from the hubs and the original factory grease cleaned out and repacked with good quality grease before installation.
I can remove and clean the outer bearing with no problem but to remove the inner bearing the grease seal needs to be removed.
My question is is it possible to remove the inner grease seal without destroying it? It’s my understanding that replacement grease seals could be hard to come by for this trailer. Or should I just leave it alone and clean the inner bearing as best I can without removing it from the hub?
I’m guessing they want the Chinese grease-like low-speed product in the bearings out and something more high-temp in there for freeway use. Fair enough. You may be able to remove the inner bearing and have the seal come out with it if you are careful to pull straight out and not get everything cocked and have to pry on it. It’s all new stuff and never run, so it MAY just pull apart. In any case, grease seals of that ilk are numbered with 3 numbers - ID, OD and width…in millemeters - and even if the local parts store doesn’t have them, they can get them for you tomorrow for $4 each, so have at it. Forget trying to order “Harbor Freight Trailer Wheel Seals,” just get the numbers and order a pair.
I’ve dealt twith a couple of these trailers before, and the wheelbearings/ seals/ hubs, etc. have always been standard boat trailer stuff. My local independant auto parts place has this stuff on the shelf.
The seals can be gently pried out with a screwdriver.
Here’s what my DH has to say, based on experience with a very similar Harbor Freight trailer:
I don’t know why they insist that the bearing be cleaned and repacked, but if you want to protect yourself in case of a warranty claim, I would do it. Do not try to use the old seal. They should be readily available from any trailer parts store and probably from most auto parts store. Remember, if you don’t clean and repack, they can deny coverage on bearing failure. If you do clean and repack using the old seal, they can still deny coverage. Protect yourself and the trailer.
Here’s a cheap, easy, and proper solution - a seal puller from Sears for under 10 bucks.
98% of the time, you’ll [=recent&filters[primary]=images"]damage seals](http://s22.beta.photobucket.com/user/bmxer1289/media/100_0700.jpg.html?filters[term) when removing them, but for this application, they’re cheap to replace, so pull away.
Andy’s right. Get the numbers off the seal, and virtually any auto parts store will have them.
Harbor Freight has odd ideas about wheels, anyway. In today’s NYT ad inserts, their page has a coupon for a 10-inch utility wheel (like a wheelbarrow wheel).
An old trick to remove the inner grease seal that usually doesn’t harm the seal is to remove the outer bearing, reinstall its washer and nut, then pull the hub off by jerking it vigorously. The inner bearing and its seal will be kept on the axle by the washer and nut.
I’ll get the numbers off the old seals and if they are of standard size I’ll get new ones. I was concerned that the parts could be of a non standard size and be hard to get but I did measure the axle and hub diameters and they are 1 inch axle diameter and 2 inches for the outside diameter of the seals so I should be fine.
I don’t think “Hermetic” fits the packaging of any bearing or seal we have in stock.
A pre-lubed bearing would require a hermetic seal to ensure the integrity.
Bearings are assembled this way.
The Cup’s are pressed into the hub, or the cup can be shrunk by freezing and the hub warmed to expand then a press would not be required.
The cones are packed with a good axle bearing grease. packing is done either with a packing attachment for a grease gun or hand packed,
Filling a hub full of grease as is the case with a dust cap that has a lube fitting on it like a “Bearing Buddy” isn’t necessarily the best way to treat a bearing but one can get away with it if the load isn’t to great and the temp and distance travailed isn’t to great,
Well yes you did miss something.
And yes seals can be salvaged. Gary’s method or a more controlled way is to use a dowel about 1 1/2 inch to knock the inboard bearing and seal out of the hub.
Nowadays, I’d probably just buy new seals, but I grew up poor, trained by a father who grew up and learned mechanicing during the depression and WW-II when even if you could afford new parts, they might not be available…so if possible you re-used.
You can usually remove a wheel bearing seal intact as follows:
Leave the tire on. (do not remove lug nuts) Remove the bearing cover, nut, washers (if any) and outer bearing cage/rollers. It may be helpful to pull the wheel to do this.
Put the wheel back on the spindle (if you took it off) without the outer bearing. Thread the nut back on.
Using both hands 180 degrees apart, push the wheel back, then pull it sharply toward you. You may have to do this 2-5 times to drive the seal out. When it pops free, you will be holding the wheel, and the inner bearing and seal will be on the spindle. The inner bearing spreads the blow enough that the seal is usually OK to reuse.
The key trick is leaving the tire/wheel on the hub. It gives you enough mass to use as an improvised slide hammer.
