Help me Understand India and the Indian Culture

Miscellaneous and Personal Stuff I Must Share
21

Traffic in Bombay is chaotic, but relatively disciplined compared to other cities in India. There are NO donkeys, elephants and cows on the streets of Bombay. They were banned a long time ago. Plenty of stray dogs though. I wouldn’t reccomend driving yourself, unless you’re used to our kind of traffic (New York and Boston is childs play for the seasoned Bombay driver).

Taxis and autorickshaws fares are calculated by meter, and a rate card is available with the driver. Always make it clear that you will only pay the metered fare only, and ask for the rate card before paying. Late at night, expect to pay upto 50% more than the metered fare though. You will almost always be taken for a ride by the cab/rickshaw driver (taking roundabout routes), so it would be best to get to know your regular route as soon as possible. I hope, for your sake, that your company will provide you with chauffered transportation!

Bombay’s international airport is probably the best in the country, and Zcrysis has described it fairly accurately. It has a long way to go by international standards, but it’s reasonably ok. The domestic terminal is a far sight better, so flying out to Madras will be much more comfortable. Domestic airlines provide very good service, are pretty much always on time, and yes, are a bit more expensive than the state-run Indian Airlines. Take my advice and never fly Indian Airlines - they have absolutely no concept of punctuality. Jet Airways and Sahara Airlines are the best. There is a no frills airline that has recently started, but they don’t have Bombay-Madras flights as yet. You’d have to fly to Bangalore first, and then to Madras, which would work out to the same cost as a direct flight on the regular airlines.

So much for transport in Bombay. I wish I could tell you something about Madras, but it would all be guesstimation, at best, seeing as I’ve never been there myself.

22

And if you don’t get a visa, you’ll be dis-consolate. :stuck_out_tongue:

(Sorry. Couldn’t resist.)

For a glimpse of the fast-paced polyglot culture, check out some recent movies. Start with Monsoon Wedding.

23

As regards television, you should feel pretty much at home, provided you have cable where you stay. Don’t bother watching Doordarshan - it sux, and I don’t even remember the last time I watched that channel. TV is pretty evenly dividefd between English and Hindi programming, so there is plenty of choice. TV here is dominated by American serials, although in almost all cases, we’re running a season or two behind. HBO, AXN, Discovery, National Geographic, CNBC, ESPN, MTV, CNN, BBC, and a few more channels you’ll be immediately familiar with. Star World is the channel you definetly want. There is one English-only Indian news channel, so you should get that too, if only to keep up-to-date on current affairs in the country. The Conditional Acces System is being implemented in Bombay as I type, so by the time you reach here, you will need a set top box. Otherwise, the neighbourhood cable provider is your friend.

I stress again, drink only bottled water. Or to be on the safer side, like my mom (with a chronic stomach problem), boil the filtered water. DO NOT drink straight out of the tap ever.

sunfish has posted something really important - don’t get carried away by everything being so cheap here, compared to the US. It’s really easy to fall into that trap - heck, it happened to me and it was a few months before I realised that I had spent more money than I needed to. Offering half of the quoted price is a pretty good place to start haggling. Keep in mind that you will always be paying more than a local, so try to get the best deal you possibly can. Note though, that this only applies to the small establishments, and the street stalls. Anywhere else, you pay the printed price, just like the rest of us.

24

Be prepared for some serious culture shock. Poverty here, as jjimm said, is griding and all-pervasive. And living side-by-side, if you’re in the right circles, is astonishingly ostentatious wealth.

Beggars are everywhere. Don’t pay them, no matter how much you think they need the money, because it never stays with them. Rather, it finds it’s way to the hands of the local thug. or if it’s kids, it goes to the parents. The money is spent less on food and more on drugs. I can’t stress this enough - don’t pay the beggars!!

And then the people. They’re everywhere, always. Bombay has a population of about 15 million, and growing, so things get very very crowded. Avoid rush hour travel on the local trains and buses. Outside of rush-hour, they’re the best, and cheapest, way to get around in the city.

Hollywood movies usually reach us about 3-4 weeks after release in the US, although occasionally it takes longer. There are multiplexes everywhere in Bombay (and Madras), so you won’t lack for choice. Nightlife in Bombay is by far the best in the country, although it does get expensive on weekends. Still relatively cheap by $ standards though.

Hospitality, IMO, is ingrained into the Indian psyche, so be prepared to receive hordes of invitations to homes of colleagues. Like sunfish said, be prepared to face questions about your personal life - it’s considered impolite not to ask about these things here (sunfish, 37 and not married? :eek: :slight_smile: ).

About them limp handshakes, I wonder about 'em too. It does seem pretty universal here. My WAG is that it depends on who the shakee is - the higher up the social ladder one is, the firmer it seems to get. While greeting people you can use ‘Namaste’ initially, and it’ll get you plenty of smiles and all-round appreciation, but don’t carry it on too long. Nobody really uses it. Handshakes are just fine.

Sadly, for your female colleagues, what sunfish says is very true, and should be kept in mind. At work, dress conservatively or you will be the object of unwanted attention - definetly don’t show too much skin in the office! OTOH when you’re going out socially, dress to the occasion as you feel like, because everyone else will have. Next, until your female colleagues get to know their Indian counterparts, keep things formal. Once a rapport has been established, then happily go back to being yourself.

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There are a few Dopers in Bombay. I don’t know how many are still active. Here’s a thread I started a while back. Get in touch with some of 'em…

26

grrrr…very hung over, forgive my spelling. CONSULATE. Happy? bastards. (hehe, j/k!) :wink:

I was actually hoping no one would notice it, because i’m too much of a lazy-ass to correct it and my internet connection is being extremely slow today.

Philster: I was born right here in the good ol’ USA, and I’ve been back to India with my parents…oh, 6 or 7 times in all. So I can give you a pretty good “visitors” perspective. I wouldnt worry about things like television. I mean, you’re definetly not going to get the Giants game on TV there, however if you’re lucky (and watching tv at 11PM) you may get a recap of the days baseball / football scores on Star Sports. Might be useful to learn a little about cricket. (Makes good conversation for a lot of indian people, as they are very very passionate about their cricket team.)

Gouda (Gowda? or Gouda the cheese?) is right about the food in Mumbai. Very very eclectic varieties of food can be found there as well as in most other major cities. If you ever get homesick, you can always head to McDonalds, Pizza Hut, or KFC. (amongst other nicer restaurants of course).

Oh and…dont feel too bad about the staring. Even I get stared at when I go there and I’m of mostly indian heritage. Last time I went, my girlfriend came with me and walking around the busier parts of the some cities became uncomfortable. We got some pretty rude comments from people snickering things at us in Hindi. Most of those people would shut up pretty quicky after I would tell them to go jump up a donkey’s ass. (Whether it was because they were surprised I knew hindi, or because of my vulgarity…i have yet to find out). Anyways, it seems most indians dont find staring as rude as we do. But IMHO, i think foreigners walking around the big cities is becoming more and more common, so it shouldnt be that big of a deal in Mumbai, Bangalore, Dehli, etc. Chennai (Madras)…might be another story however.

As for the airlines…IMHO it would be best if you steered clear of Indian Airlines and Air India. The past two times I’ve gone there, I’ve had terrible experiences with them. Delays, lost baggage, etc. Their ticketing agents and customer service is VERY unaccomidating as well. You’ll be much happier taking a direct flight from Singapore Airlines into the country, and then flying around domestically with Jet Airways or Sahara (both of which have a MUCH newer fleet than Air India or Indian Air, and therefore more comfortable).

Also…in regards to the squat style toilets, I mean…you’ll find regular toilets pretty much everywhere. I’m just saying dont be surprised if you’re presented with a squat style toilet, because they are very very common throughout much of india.

OH…definetly stock up on Pepto Bismol. And those damn malaria tablets, albeit…i generally stop taking mine after two weeks and have yet to get malaria. Obviously…go to your doctor’s office and get properly immunized.

Oh, and you can forget about eating beef when you’re there. Kiss your dead-cow sandwich goodbye before you leave. If I havent already mentioned this…go to your local indian restaurant and sample a few things and see what you like. It’ll be easier when you’re in india and if you are familiar with a few typical dishes.

Hmm…I’ll post more as it hits me.:wink:

27

If you ever get chance for a quick trip down south to Kerala, it is one of the most beautiful places on Earth. A cruise around the backwaters for a couple of days is a must.

xash the GQ moderator is resident in Bombay, I believe.

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I reiterate that you must use bottled water to do everything, including brush your teeth. A friend of mine who was living in a palatial house in the poshest suburb of Delhi (Basant Bihar), and had been there for a year, accidentally swallowed a small mouthful of water during a shower, and ended up with three very nasty illnesses that hospitalised him for a month.

29

Wow. Don’t think I’ve ever read every posted word so carefully.

Some quick notes: It seems we’ll get private car service to work and back everyday. Our work hours will be somewhere around 5pm to 3am. Actually, all of the Indian employees will be transported by private bus. Their company provides this service already.

As for food, I’m pretty much in love with Indian food. Spices make me happy. Everything from restaurant fair I’ve found here, to my neighbor’s authentic cooking to an old coworker who got me hooked. Yes, I have Indian neighbors, but they are out of the country until November and I can’t tap them as a resource! But for long term issues, I will. This is why I turn to you!

My company is in scramble mode, as they’ve announced this last week and our Indian partners will be here next week, with our group visiting them in India for the first time by October. Then semi perm rotations get going. That’s being sorted out. We’ve re-orged around here and as dicsussion heats up, I’m getting more and more involved (and interested).

When I got into work today, I received a note to attend a cross cultural training class I’ll be back around noon eastern US time and I’ll report what I’ve heard.

My deepest appreciation. You guys continue to prove the SDMB value! Incredible stuff. I am a ahead of the game here. Believe me, it’s a desirable position to be involved with this venture: Job security. Thanks for helping me.

30

Well, you gotta keep us posted when you’re there. If you have the time, of course :wink:

31

Et tu, gouda? You know, it got to the point where a couple of people offered to place matrimonial ads for me. “37/ 5’7”, PhD (geology), never married, seeks suitable alliance with well-settled boy, 35-45, US citizen or green card preferred, caste, religion no bar.” You think this will work? :wink: :stuck_out_tongue:

Okay, some more odds and ends:

I had a look around at my books here. emilyforce’s suggestion of Culture Shock: India is a good one. I didn’t pick up this book until after my first trip, but I found it pretty accurate and helpful in understanding things that had puzzled me earlier. India: The Rough Guide and The Lonely Planet Guides also have a lot of basic and useful information. Also check out India: From Midnight to the Millennium by Shashi Tharoor for a view of India since independence, and May You be the Mother of a Hundred Sons by Elisabeth Bumiller for a view of the lives of Indian village women. I have the Keay book Tamerlane mentioned, and I did find it to be an enjoyable and informative (if not totally scholarly) read.

Food and drink: I’ll chime in here too because it’s really important: drink only bottled water! Use it to brush your teeth as well. You may come across some restaurants that advertise filtered water; sometimes they do, sometimes not, drink at your own risk. If you buy bottled water on the street, make sure the seal is intact, or else you might get a bottle refilled with local water that will make you sick. Also be cautious of ice and washed raw fruits and vegetables. It’s a good idea to try out Indian food here at home if you’re not familiar with it, but be forewarned that many dishes served here have the spices considerably toned down. (And I was not ready for a breakfast omelette loaded with green chilis! :eek: ) Indian Chinese food is absolutely delicious, you must try some while you’re there – it’s one thing I really miss here at home. I wasn’t as enamored of the Italian food, though, which had some fairly blandly spiced sauces (really!) and pasta with a fundamentally different texture. Hard liquor (whisky is big) and beer are sold in wine shops that, oddly enough, don’t sell wine. Beers can be quite good, especially the strong varieties (about 8.5% alcohol, IIRC). Wines are hard to find, not that tasty, and hideously expensive – best to skip those altogether.

Definitely take every opportunity to see the sights while you’re there, too. India has lots of wonderful scenic and cultural places, and it would be a crying shame not to indulge yourself. Just remember to haggle with the guys who will inevitably surround you to hawk their souvenirs. It’s a good idea to always have some small bills scattered around in your pockets to pay these folks. Try to avoid having to whip out your wallet to pay, because once you do you will immediately become a magnet for every other souvenir-seller, and it can get a little scary if you’re surrounded by a dozen or more folks shouting their wares and pressing close.

I haven’t been to Chennai (Madras) myself, but an Indian friend of mine described it as hot, humid, and very conservative. Another friend pointed out that the correct pronunciation of Chennai is “CHENN-ay,” not “chenn-EYE,” apparently a common mistake even among Indians, judging from his comment (something about “those northie guys” :wink: ).

Really, Philster, I think you and your colleagues will have a wonderful time once you get your feet wet. I envy you the opportunity to go so often. J

32

More on the driving. I missed this out on my “what freaked me out” list. This is just my opinion - other people’s mileage may vary (if you’ll pardon the pun) - but I found the driving in India, and particularly in Delhi to be ab-so-fucking-lutely INSANE.

I’ve travelled a lot in developing countries, so I’m used to a high degree of driver nuttiness and very different standards of what constitues “safety”: I’ve seen some pretty mad shit - a Vietnamese motorcylist lose his scalp because the truck he was following didn’t have brake lights; Nepalese coach drivers skidding one wheel off cliffside roads as they screech round blind corners; the bus I was on in China that reversed two miles down the freeway because the driver had missed his exit - but nothing prepared me for Indian driving. Mental beyond belief. Vehicles overtake on blind corners, follow each other at great speed at a distance of one inch, drive on the wrong side of the street into the face of oncoming traffic if it’s expedient. And amazingly, they usually miss each other. There are no safety belts in the taxis, and don’t even think about airbags, unless you’re in one of the Mercedes of the super-rich.

One unforgettable journey was soon after we arrived, when we needed to get to the train station in Delhi by 6 am. Our cab arrived at 5.30, which was plenty of time to get there. The dawn light was just starting to creep in, but the city was shrouded in the thickest pea-soup fog I’ve ever seen. It was so thick that, when we were in the taxi, we couldn’t see the sides of the street. Our taxi driver took this entirely in his stride, and immediately slammed his foot full down on the accelerator. We barrelled down the city roads at 50 goddamned miles per hour. Oncoming Tata trucks, startled cows and pedestrians, motor scooters, and auto-rickshaws would loom out of the mist about 5 feet away, and our driver would have about half a second to skirt round them, missing each by an inch or so. I was screaming at the guy to slow the fuck down. Mrs jjimm was in tears. He ignored our pleas, and continued hurtling into the foggy abyss at a breakneck pace, throwing us around in the back of the cab as he swerved to avoid the hidden obstacles. We made it to the station in one piece, but I nearly died of a heart attack. Then I discovered that the guy, who had promised us a metered fare, suddenly realised his meter was “broken” and quoted us a fare that was about three times his estimate when we got into the cab. I refused, and gave him the original price. He then made an impassioned speech in Hindi to the people milling around the station entrance, presumably about how much of a bastard I was. I stood my ground, paid him what I felt I owed him, and to piss him off I tipped the charming elderly Sikh railway porter twice as much as the fare we’d just paid…

I’m sorry if this sounds harsh, but this is how I experienced it. I’ve heard that there’s a fatalism - a sort of Hindu version of Kismet - that says “when it’s your time to go, then it’s your time to go”, and therefore driving with due care and attention is not going to change this. Maybe the Indian dopers can correct me on this?

33

I’ll vouch for jjimm’s experience with recklessness on the road - it is typical. You may want to close your eyes rather than watch your driver play chicken with an overloaded truck barreling your way. On my first trip, I had a regular driver who took some pride in getting even wilder if we protested, so I learned to keep (relatively) quiet. I’m fairly certain that I added a couple of gray hairs through driving around.

But nothing really compared to driving more than half the way back from Agra to Delhi on New Year’s Eve with no lights and no horn :eek: (turned out later that the battery wasn’t charging because of a loose contact).

These are meant to be humorous, but they are pretty much spot on:

Driving in India: A Hilarious Account
Rules of the Road

34

Another second for jjimm, this time re. the water: ALWAYS decline ice in drinks (send it back if necessary) and eeat only unsliced fruit with some kind of outer casing, like bananas or melon. In restaurants, it’s best to just ask for “whatever’s freshest” rather than a specific type of fish or meat.

However, even with the best of intentions, Delhi Belly is pretty much unavoidable. Just take plenty of Immodium and perhaps even wear a diaper to get through the day until your system gets used to the fauna.

35

“Assumption of immortality” - that’s an absolutely perfect phrase to sum up the only way to survive the driving with one’s sanity intact. Just assume that you’re not going to be the unlucky one, and you’ll survive. I did!

36

We were being driven from Jaipur to Agra at night and the roads were absolutely ridiculous. Potholes, rocks and cows. The speed at which some of the trucks and lorrys were driving at were insane, but that wasn’t as annoying as what they do with the headlights. Basically, they’re on full power and the brightness is totally blinding; it’s like trying to drive with a couple of torches shining directly into yer eyes!

sunfish, that second link was hilarious.

37

Don’t mean to hijack, but I’ve been puzzled for years by the fact that India has these incredible temples depicting hardcore XXX sex acts, and yet their movies are incredibly long boring things where the women dance fully clothed without moving their hips and there’s not any sex at all. I know the temples were built a long time ago, but what happened to all that frank sexuality? Did the Victorian English crush it or what?

38

As far as I understand it…it died for the most part with the muslim conquest a few hundred years ago. The Victorian English Era just further served to mute it.

I have pictures here somewhere from a temple I went to…but I dont think i could post them here, although I am tempted. haha. great stuff.

[end thread highjack]

39

Well, Chennai is pronounced Chenn-EYE. It is a corruption of the local tamil name, Senn-EYE.

And, this hot and humid part gets me everytime. 95% of India is freaking hot in summer. The dry heat in the north kills people. The humid heat in Madras (moderated by the beaches) causes sweat and discomfort. Take your pick!

And, the weather is pretty good in Chennai around Sept-Feb.

40

[nitpick] Actually, in Bollywood movies in the last decade or more, there’s plennnnnty of hip movin’ goin’ on. But still very little kissing, no nudity, and sex can only be obliquely hinted at. [/nitpick]

A parallel in Western culture might be Shakespeare contrasted with Victorian mores. That sort of change in attitude has happened in a lot of cultures, I think. At least the Indians didn’t have a Bowdler with a chisel “fix” the temple sculptures.