Help - What are the threaded female nuts called that mount into wood?

Factual Questions
1

I’m having a heck of a time trying to figure out the name for these special nuts.

I need to create a thread hole (machine threads 1/4-20) in a piece of wood. I want the threaded stud on this clamp to screw into it.

It’s made for a camera to screw onto. But, I plan to rig up something to hold a water hose and hand sprinkler. The clamp is perfect for clamping to my chain link fence. A 3x3 inch block of wood with a couple pipe clamps is all I need.

Last resort I could drill a hole, and glue two 1/4-20 nuts inside the block of wood. Two nuts would give me the depth I need.

But, I’m sure there’s already some kind of insert made to do this without jury rigging something.

So can anyone think of what it is called?

I got a very small area of fresh sod that requires watering. It’s so small that a sprinkler just sprays my neighbor’s house and upsets him. I’ve been hand watering. Sometimes I jam the nozzle into the chain link fence holes and walk away. Never know when it will fly loose and waste water. I’ve gotten sprayed in the back of the head a couple times, as I walked away. :smiley: So, I’m improvising something that can clamp and hold the hose.

2

just to be clear. Here’s a double head screw. Used to attach chair legs.
http://www.best-b2b.com/userimg/896/903-2/double-head-screw-299.jpg

It’s name is double head screw. Screws into the chair leg. Then you still have the other end with threads to screw into the furniture.

I’m racking my brain trying to think what the female version is that provides a hole for machine threaded rods.

3

Insert Nut

4

T-nuts.

5

Thank you, thank you. :smiley:

I was going crazy trying to recall the name of these things.

6

Wanted to add for those that are interested…

I have used a big ass C Clamp to clamp a water hose & nozzle to the railing of my chain link fence. The disadvantage is trying to aim the darn thing.

That camera clamp I found earlier provides tilt and it turns right/left. I’ll have much more control where the nozzle sprays.

I really ought to patent this thing. :smiley: I can’t be the only frustrated homeowner that got fed up futilely trying to jam the frigging water nozzle into a chain link fence. Even if you get the damn thing to stay put, it will jump out when you turn the water back on the next day. The hose always jerks anytime the faucet is turned on.

I have looked for years for a water hose clamp/holder. No luck. That don’t seem to manufacture such a thing.

I just hate standing in one spot for fifteen minutes sweating my ass off holding a water nozzle. Even at 7AM it’s already 80 degrees in the morning and humid as hell.

7

Female nuts?! :eek:

8

Threaded inserts. I buy them all the time. Get the High Strength if you’re going to be going into hardwood.

9

Using that link, look at the T nuts on the left hand side. They are extremely easy to work with and have incredible strength. Much easier to install than a threaded insert.

The only drawback is if the “nutted side” will be exposed rather than concealed.

10

Cougars?

11

Home Depot indicates one of my local stores has 4 packages of 1/4-20 inserts in stock. I’ll try them first before ordering online.

I’ll also need a double headed screw. one end machine threads and the other end wood threads. I can attach the pipe clamps with wing nuts to hold the water hose in place.

this would be the perfect pipe clamp to secure the water hose.

or the old fashioned kind. Plumbers use these a lot attaching pipes to floor joists.

12

I was wondering where you were. :slight_smile:

13

Actually, the one in the middle is a dowel screw and the other two are hanger bolts.

CMC fnord!
Who’s spent way too many hours in way too many hardware stores looking for exotic hardware . . . and who has a large collection of tool and hardware pr0n.

14

Thanks, I learned some new words. :wink: It’s hard remembering names for parts I use infrequently.

So I’ll ask for 1/4-20 hanger bolts and wing nuts that will fit. That’s to attach the hose clamps.

15

t-nuts are pound in with a large surface flange. it doesn’t take a lot to have the machine screw pull them out.

there are two types of barrel inserts, pound in (might have a small flange which can be pounded to the wood surface) and screw in (allen wrench) which have wood treads on the outside and can be recessed (these are the sturdiest).

16

If they’re pulling out you’re not using them right! If they’re not tightened sufficiently the bolt/screw can push the t-nut out of the wood and the prongs can bend. There are two solutions for this, the “brad hole” t-nut which can be secured with screws or pop rivets (or brads, this is the better choice if the prongs might split the wood or can’t be hammered in i.e. hardwoods, plastics, metal, etc.) and the riveting t-nut.

CMC fnord!

17

“…screw into it…” :smiley:

“…double head screw…” :confused:

18

the cheapest t-nut are just straight prongs which you can pull out (depending on the condition of the wood and age of use) with a partially inserted machine screw. not so much of a problem if used under compression.

19

You’re using them wrong.

Drill a 1/4 inch hole. Insert T-nut on the opposite side of the wood from where the bolt or machine screw will be coming. Bolt or machine screw goes THROUGH the wood, into the T-nut. The more you tighten the bolt or screw, the firmer the T-nut bites into the wood.

20

that may be the better way to use them with a through hole. that will depend on the thickness of the wood if they could be used. you also need care and technique to thread the screw and not push the t-nut out.

lots of store bought items have the flange surface of the t-nut on the exposed side to be screwed into.

i prefer the screw in barrel inserts because they hold and you easily see and feel the machine screw thread.