Home security systems - Protect America

Thank you for this great info. The house has been pre-wired for a security system, and right now, there are wires hanging out of the walls in a few key spots. There are two obvious spots for keypads, and two spots for motion detectors. Window and door devices would have to be wired in, and I don’t see any wires for that. Now, that may be normal, and the wires run along the floor, etc. but I don’t know. I’d prefer if the wires would be hidden from view if possible.

It’s also good to know about the proprietary restrictions. I had no idea, although it doesn’t surprise me. I’d rather put in something that is more flexible for both me and any future owner.

I’m looking to upgrade the security of my home in general. I don’t live in a bad area, but you never know. So, first came the dead bolts. Now, I’m installing outside motion sensor lights. I’d like to have a good, basic security system that monitors the house when I’m away. Peace of mind and all that.

The doors and windows should be wired with recessed switches, open a window, and look down into the ledge, you should see a little glob of caulk/sealing material, about the size of a dime. Under that is the actual switch. Typically the company that actually puts the rest of the equipment in will install the magnet in the window that opens/closes the circuit. If you open the window and see only the top of the contact, make sure the company who installs your alarm seals these. If these aren’t sealed, over time they can loosen and begin to leak, and the last thing you want is water dripping down into your walls every time it rains. The last condo I lived in (had been apts that flipped to condos) were built about 10 years ago, and none of the window contacts were sealed, and now the company that flipped the development is having to rip off the stucco and reframe every building because of mold and wood rot.

You say you are wired for two motion detectors, but I would bet that one of those wires is actually for the siren…if it’s by the doorbell, that is what it is intended for.

Call your homeowners insurance agent, and ask what discount you receive for having a security system monitored by a UL listed monitoring center. Also, ask if there is any additional discount for having monitored fired equipment. Some companies will do a larger discount for this.

I highly recommend adding some sort of monitored fire detection. We include it with every system we install. Your prewire package probably includes an extra wire or two in the attic, which can be dropped down easily and attached to a monitored heat/smoke detector. You will probably pay 100-150 bucks for the equipment if you can’t get it for free, but it’s worth every penny. If no one is home, it will contact the fire dept. long before your neighbors notice smoke coming out of your window. If you ARE home, and asleep, you have a better chance of waking up to a 110dB siren than you do the small detector in the hallway.
Another popular item is a key fob, which allows you to arm or disarm the system, set off the panic siren, and typically it will have another button for auxilliary use(we usually hook it up to the garage door, so you can open your garage door and control the alarm with it). Downside is that if someone steals your keys, they have access to the home(it’s simple to de-activate the keyfobs though, so they have to steal the keys and beat you home)
we are you located? I may have contacts in your area, between myself and my coworker we’ve worked with most of the major alarm companies

we=where are you located

also—if it’s a two story home, get the fire escape/rope ladder and put one or two upstairs, and make sure anyone sleeping up there knows how to use them. It’s kind of a cliche, but make a fire escape route and have a meeting area in the yard(or wherever), and make sure any kids in the house know it well.

and, most alarms have two different sounds, one for burglary event and one for fire. Make sure the kids know the difference, and what the correct response is to each. Burglary siren=under the bed or in the closet hiding, fire siren=out the window, the door, etc.

Ask the representative, or local company switchboard, for the agency that licenses them. If they give you a number, don’t call it. Ask for the department and look it up yourself in the Government section of your phone book.
in OK, it is the department Health (which doesn’t make a LOT of sense, but it IS healthy to be protected from crooks, so I dunno!)
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In many states(in fact all that I know of), security liscensing is done by the state electrical commission. Here in FL, for instance, an EC designation means you can do all electrical wiring, both high and low voltage. An EF designation is for low voltage only. It is an odd thing, as a company itself is not liscensed, but a person, who then holds it for a company. A person can hold it for more than one company( I believe there is now a limit of 2). Here in FL, all advertisements and company issued paperwork must contain the liscense number in plain view. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be careful also of the quality of the monitoring center…there are some small, local companies here that do their own monitoring, and their center is a small (15x15) prefabbed building with two computer stations in it. Make sure your monitoring center is UL listed.

Most of the national companies do much of their new account acquisitions through a dealer network(much like the auto industry). For instance, you may call ADT out of your phone book, and you may be calling an authorized ADT dealer, or ADT corporate. If you call corporate, they may 1)sell you a system over the phone, and send one of their own techs out, 2)set up an appt. with a company sales rep, or 3)set up an appt and send it to a local dealer.

Local dealers sign you up for 36-60mos. of monitoring. ADT dealers have very strict guidelines as to what they can charge monthly. In a prewired home, your typical offer from an ADT dealer would be:
1 keypad
1 motion det.
all door and window contacts
1 siren
1 computer panel, phone jack, battery, etc.

For this, I believe the current activation fee is $99, and your monitoring is 32.99 for 36 months. The dealer then sells the contract to ADT, who funds the dealer a multiple based on your credit score(and some other options, like how often the dealer has accounts charge back) x the monthly rate,- a processing fee.

The dealer gets 800-900 bucks from ADT, which they then pay for the equipment, sales commissions, and installation costs with.

Other companies have different structures…for instance, Monitronics has a $69 activation fee, and the dealers can write agreements for $22-$40 a month. Typically this varies according to the equipment you want put in.

Your other route would be to purchase equipment up front, then pay a reduced monitoring rate, and sign a 12 month agreement(or sometimes you can get by with a month to month). One of our builders has this set up, where every condo they build is completely trimmed out with equipment, so we activate for their clients with no agreement required, they just pay for the monthly service.
You could probably buy a decent security panel, two basic keypads, 20 contacts(if you need them), a motion detector, siren, and a smoke/heat detector for 600-700 retail, and then get it monitored for 15-20 a month(from an ADT or Monitronics dealer, who would keep the account in house, and not submit it as a purchased contract). You could probably find that same equipment in the 300-400 range on the internet, but then you have the issue of finding someone to come install it.
By doing the full 36 month contract, as others stated, the national companies will do free(or very low cost) relocations, much like Direct TV…you leave your equipment when you sell the house, and they transfer service to your new one.

Some sound advice:

Clark Howard is mostly right, except the “never sign a contract” part.

No one will give you free equipment without a guarantee that the cost will be accounted for via monitoring. If the customer is able to pay several hundred dollars up front, then he is correct. Buy it, and forego the contract.

But what if the customer is a divorced woman struggling to make ends meet and is afraid for her safety? Should she wait? No, she should sign the contract and get the alarm.

Also"never pay more than $20 a month" is a silly arbitrary rule. It’s like saying,“never pay more than 300 a month for a car”. If you want a cell phone backup system, system monitoring, and monthly status reports faxed to your home, you are going to pay more than 20 bucks.

Right.

The best approach is to purchase the equipment & installation upfront. And then hire a no-contract monitoring firm.

Thanks to everyone for the information!

We are located in Eastern Pennsylvania if that helps.

You are right in that one of the wires is near the door, which means that it’s probably for the siren you referred to. I have not checked my windows for that little gob of caulk/sealing but will do so later today. I never knew to look there, but I am hopeful that it’s there. I would imagine that putting this in after the fact would be a messy look. And I’ll make sure it’s sealed also. I’d hate to have the water leakage problem that you mentioned.