Okay, as I mention in this thread, I’ve just bought a 1969 Chrysler Newport. I had a 1971 in high school that over time developed a bizarre electrical problem where the car would stall out and need a jump start to get going again, and then it would run fine for days or weeks before conking out again. I’ve been told that the easiest way to correct this problem is to replace the original factory alternator and voltage regulator with a GM 1-wire alternator. Getting the alternator installed isn’t going to be a problem (I’m a machinist, so I can fabricate whatever brackets I might need), but I don’t know how I should wire the thing up. Anybody know?
Heh funny you should mention this Tuck I was discussing this the other day with a guy. I’ve got a '65 Ford F100 that came with a generator and a volatage regualtor of course. I pulled the worn out generator out and the voltage regulator. Replaced it with a '75 Chevy alternator that has the regulator built in. It works great and was not near as expensive, less trouble and more dependable than trying to go back with the original equipment.
The wires aren’t that big of a deal but mine isn’t a one wire system either. I’ll go check it out for you if you’re still intersted.
Please do. I intend on restoring the car and making it my daily driver when I’m done, and if I don’t have to worry about the electrical system going haywire on me (it’s kinda hard to pick up chicks when your pimpwagon keeps dying on you 
), it’ll make the work that much easier on me.
I’m going off of a Haynes diagram for Dodge vans, but the alternator wiring should be the same as for a '70s full size car.
Just wire it to the main output of the existing alternator. My manual shows that it is a black 10 gauge wire for early '70s models and red for later years (the 18 gauge wires are for the field.) An ohmmeter should read zero ohms between this wire, the positive battery cable and one side of the ammeter and all unswitched fuses.
There shouldn’t be any leakage in the alternator’s recifier, but if you want to be sure, you might use a multimeter with a diode check function to check. With the leads attached to the output wire and ground, there should be 0.6 volts (or so) drop one way and no reading with the test leads reversed. Any leakage can drain the battery, but I think that there will only be leakage if an alternator gets dirt in the rectifier area.
That said, the problems you described could be caused by either undercharging or by some sort of leakage. I’d get the charging system checked, and if that’s ok then use an ammeter to test for a few milliamps of current when the ignition and lights are turned off.
I’ll do that tomorrow if I don’t forget. I was goimg to this afternonn but got busy on something else and didn’t get to it. It ain’t no big thing though. I’ve done it a couple of times…no three X now. It’s been awhile though. My old Ford runs like a top now and I haven’t had any problems. ~later t/k
Damnit tuck I apologize…I hope it wasn’t urgent. I got tied up w/ the damned hospital. I’m trying to get a copy of her medical records. They’ve given me the runaround for awhile and now they say okay. BUT it’ll cost $400
WTF? 400 bucks for a stack of papers…the law says I have a right to her files but give the hospital the okay to cahrge a copying fee. BUT 400 dollars. That is total bullshit. Might as well just say fuck off you can’t have 'em.
I’ll try again manana…sorry
No real rush on it, it’ll still be a while before I get my mitts on the car (sometime before the end of the month), and a little while longer still before I’m going to need to worry about doing the swap out (I’ve got a couple of other repairs I’m sure I’m going to need to make to it first). Sounds like you’ve got more important things to worry about.
Just a gentle reminder bump.
Here’s an alternate (har-har me funny) thought. I remember buying rebuild kits for MoPaR alternators that contained a replacement diode array, new bearings, and a little tube of lube. 30, 60, and 100 amp kits in blister packs at Pep Boys, but it has been a few years so I don’t know if they are still sold. Also, there are still a few shops around that do nothing but starter and generator/alternator rebuilding. A nice old fellow runs one a few miles from here, if you want me to get a price.
Yeah, if you don’t mind. I’m not entirely certain which route I want to go with this, and if it’s signifcantly cheaper than that might be the deciding factor.
Gimme all the specs-cuz I’m a lazy toad. I know you posted the year, but what engine? I’ll guess it was at least a 60 (A/C and all) but my Grand Fury had a 100.
Either post it or shoot me an email, and I’ll give them a shout.
It’s got a 383 and has an aftermarket A/C unit (which is going to have to be replaced), and if he can kick it up a notch or thirty (never can have too much power under the hood ) I’ll be a happy camper.
They were all different sizes, and the 30 was the only one with single sheave. 60, 100, and 140 (Police Interceptor) were all double sheave. Which do you have now? If you want to trade up, then I’ll have to call some of the local yards to get a rebuildable core, in case he doesn’t have some sitting on the shelf.
Are you planning to restore it to the original reciprocating A/C compressor? I think they were York.
383 check. What year again? That way I’ll be able to cross reference what other Dodge and Plymouth models and years will interchange. I’m asking this stuff as there is a huge yard near where I used to live, also where Frank #2 lives (fellow Doper and motorhead) that is acres of cars, and is a “you pull it” place. You bring your tools, do the work, and save $ bigtime. Example: turn signal/hazard switch for a truck with tilt wheel and cruise is $85 at the Ford dealer. $5 at the you pull it yard.
The car’s a 1969. The alternator’s a damifino model, (kind of small, so I’m guessing a 30, how do I know for sure?). As for the A/C unit, I’m not sure what I’ll do. The car originally didn’t have A/C and checking Vintage Air’s site, they don’t have a drop in unit, but do have a “universal mount” model. Whereever possible I want to keep the car looking as close to stock as I can. I know I don’t like having that ugly box sitting below the dash, though.
The 30 and 60 were very similar in size and appearance. Any data plate visible or stamping on the rectifier end? I called my local alternator fellow and he will rebuild what you’ve got for ~$50, or if you wanted to upgrade from a 30 to a 60, he has rebuilt units on shelf for ~$50. I’ll guesstimate FedEx ground from me to you at ~$15.
To redo the A/C as stock, you’d need to raid a yard for the appropriate brackets to mount the compressor. It’s an issue of dollars vs. reliability if you want to go with a new evaporator, condenser, receiver/drier, and lineset vs. reclaimed. IIRC, the box containing the heater core would need the engine compartment half replaced, as it is bigger to accommodate the evaporator. Finally, if I’ve remembered it all, you’d want to replace the heat/vent/fan dash control with one having the A/C and A/C Max settings. I hope you’ve got a buddy in the A/C business, as you don’t want to waste the charge of R-12 in the system, and you may need some top-off refrigerant unless you plan on purging and converting to R-134a.
Ain’t nuthin’ visible on that thing, but oil (gotta fix that soon). Later on, I’ll dig through my factory service manual and owners manual for the car and see if I can’t figure it out exactly.
As for the A/C business, well my brother’s got all the necessary certifications for that, so no worries there.
Hey Tuck check your mail. 