Here’s the deal. I have a 1/2 ID threaded iron pipe that runs ALL THE WAY across my basement for the sole purpose of supplying a gas log insert that is no longer there.
I’m getting ready to replace my electrical panel, and I CAN work around the gas line but it will get in the way of me doing a neat job of fastening my cables on the way in to the box Not only that, but it will be a super PITA to get the ones running in the top knockouts stapled with that line in the way. I’m already planning on temporarily removing the ABS pipe that drains the sink, which runs right near the gas line, in order to make room to work. I figured I’d look at getting that gas line out of the way, too.
There is a (sorry, not sure what to call it) threaded butt-joint connector about 5’ ‘before’ the panel. As long as I shut off the gas at the meter, extinguish my furnace and water heater pilot lights, and open the window that’s a couple feet away, it doesn’t seem like a big deal.
Use a couple wrenches, work my way back from the fireplace unscrewing pipe until I’m where I want to be…use yellow teflon tape, put on a brass plug (I guess you’re supposed to use brass??), turn the gas on, and squirt it with bubbly leak solution and watch for a few minutes.
Plumbing/gas guy I called for a veryvery rough estimate quoted me $750 to disconnect at the same place, run a new pipe 10’ to where the clothes dryer is, and drop down for a connection to that. Ain’t no way I’m trusting myself to do that work and I’ll call him if I decide to switch to a gas dryer, but I figured just capping off a pipe wouldn’t require $250 of professional work…am I right?
I used to have a neighbor who was a plumber, and he ran the gas line for a set of gas logs I used to have. I mentioned to him in passing (not in a challenging sort of way, just making conversation) that nothing he was doing seemed particularly beyond my skill set. His reply, IIRC, was “probably not, and you could probably do this yourself, but what would you do if something went wrong?”
I was very happy to pay him for his time, because I did not have an answer for that question.
Well I thought that was weird, too…saw it on a YouTube video while doing preliminary research. Now that I think about it, I think he may have been capping a brass valve for a stove or some such.
I couldn’t figure out why you wouldn’t just use an iron cap. :dubious:
I’d never try to construct anything gas-wise, but this seems like about as simple as it gets. The main worry would be either the threads are dicked and won’t take the cap, or I cross-thread it and ruin the threads myself, or inadvertently partially un-screw the pipe that I’m capping off.
You have the basic ideas well thought out. To prevent one pipe unscrewing, you always use two pipe wrenches. One to hold the “dead” pipe and the other to unscrew what you need to. And there should be a shut off valve where the run meets the main pipe. Just close that one and there is no need to deal with the main shut off. But be sure you know where the main is. There will be very little gas escaping, just a little puff. It’s low pressure. I would use gas rated pipe dope instead of Teflon tape.
You pretty much have it figured out. You could put a plug in the connector, or remove the connector and install a cap on the pipe that remains in the house. One thing I would do is to back up the pipe that remains with a pipe wrench so it doesn’t turn when you are loosening the pipe. It’s a threaded connection on it’s other end and you don’t want that connection to loosen. Come to think of it, if that joint is accessible, check it with soapy water too when you are done.
Just checked again, and there’s not! I’m not sure everything down there is kosher. Judging from other, um, projects that were taken on by the previous owners, I wouldn’t be surprised if most of it isn’t a DIY job.
I have a 3" supply line. When it gets to close to the furnace, it drops down directly to 1/2", continues, T’s off to the furnace, continues, T’s off to the water heater, and then zooms across the basement to the fireplace. There are individual shutoffs for furnace, W/H, and fireplace, but no other shutoffs inside the house.
Didn’t take my tape with me, but I thought that’s what I heard a contractor mutter to himself when he was looking at giving me an estimate on something earlier this year. Might just be 2".
In general, whenever you have two metal parts up against each other, you always want them to be the same metal. Different metals will form a weak battery, and hasten corrosion of one or both.
brass and iron are pretty close together in the galvanic series. IOW, when you make them hug each other, they don’t develop a whole lot of potential for galvanic corrosion.
-you need an electrolyte present to help facilitate corrosion. So unless this pipe network is going to be subjected to salt water spray on a regular basis, it should last a very long time.
if you go to Home Depot and look for a gas shutoff valve, it’s going to be hard to find one that isn’t made of brass.
Not only that, but it will be a super PITA to get the ones running in the top knockouts stapled with that line in the way. I’m already planning on temporarily removing the ABS pipe that drains the sink, which runs right near the gas line, in order to make room to work. I figured I’d look at getting that gas line out of the way, too.