I am on my third attempt in my life at replacing a shower head. Using the knowledge gained from my prior two failed attempts when a pipe wrench did not dislodge the shower head, but broke the pipe behind the wall, I want to avoid such a repeat.
Of course it has been there for years and taped to the pipe. Is there an agreed upon way to remove the shower head without destroying the pipe/arm behind it?
If by tape you’re referring to Teflon pipe tape, it should make it easier to remove as there’s technically no metal to metal contact.
I’d put duct tape on the pipe and hold with a pipe wrench. If the shower head has a hex fitting use a Cresent wrench, otherwise more tape and another pipe wrench.
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Yes, definitely immobilize the pipe before attempting to turn the shower head. A vice grip or channel lock type thing would also work.
You might want to squirt some rust-removing stuff into the threads and let it sit overnight before attempting the removal.
Note: IANAPlumber, so take any suggestions as amateurish guesses, but they might work!
Are you just replacing the head, not the pipe extension holding it? Like mentioned above you need to hold the extension. Use duct tape or heavy cloth to hold it with a wrench, or a plastic strap wrench. It shouldn’t be that hard to do, don’t over-tighten the new one.
Oh, strap wrench, great idea. I have several but don’t use them much. But they are useful in some applications and this is probably a good one.
But the pipe is round. How do I hold/immobilize that with a wrench?
I think a strap wrench, or a vice-grip chain wrench is the best thing, if there’s no hex fitting right above the shower head.
Also, it is possible that whoever put the shower head on used Locktite (a very effective thread locker) because it was leaking, or something. You can get Locktite solvent, or try Locktite Freeze & release.
All those things can be bought lots of places-- I imagine Home Depot and Lowe’s carry them all. I just picked those images because they came up first.
Strap wrench is good, and they come in different sizes so be sure to get the right size.
Otherwise put about 4 turns of duct tape around the pipe and use a pipe wrench. The tape will keep you from scarring the pipe as long as you’re not too aggressive.
Excellent. I’ll go to Home Depot in the morning and get a strap wrench. Thanks to all for the very helpful responses.
use pliers not a pipe wrench. preferably slip joint pliers grab the shower head where it is joined at pipe. You don’t have to squeeze to hard at the base of the showerhead just enough so the tool does not slip. The tape is there for leaks not to secure the head. turn counterclockwise until the head comes off
Success! Strap wrench held it perfectly. Many thanks.
Now you’ll be looking for more places to use that new tool. Did you just buy one, or perhaps a set of two sizes? I always have to look carefully everytime I use one to make sure it’s set up correctly.
Just the one. But you’re right. I am looking for anything else I can wrench the hell out of. : ) This is a very handy tool that I wish I had heard of before.
I’ve had this problem before, and similar problems replacing bathtub spigots. I’ve always used a backing wrench (a second wrench to apply opposite torque to the pipe as carefully and accurately as possible) but that often seems not to be good enough. I’ve also tried grinding the offending fitting off the end of the pipe, to at least weaken its grip, and patching cracks in the pipe where it comes from the wall with epoxy and wire wrapping (the pressure is very low if it’s downstream of the valve).
If there was a tool that clamped onto the pipe and applied torque to the head, maybe with some kind of crank reduction gear or worm drive, I’d certainly buy it. Otherwise replacing a $3 head too often turns into a disruptive $300 job. It’s amazing how weak the plumbing built into cheap houses often is.
Just for future reference, here are a couple pipe fitter tricks: When you have the chance to let a joint sit over night squirting it with penetrating oil then tapping it with a hammer helps the oil find its way into cracks and crevices it may not otherwise. Also if you can add some more oil during the night and tap the joint again.
This may sound counter productive but it works: First try tightening the connection then loosening it. This has worked on many many times on rusted car parts.
Phu Cat