Hello. I’m an olde school bicycle rider (How olde? Why, I remember when TriFlow was introduced as TriFlon – it had/has real Teflon microbeads in it; but the Teflon people must’ve sued them or something, because next season it was TriFlow, as it has remained ever since. But enough of the Olde Days.)
I’ve used Phil Wood brand “Tenacious Oil” on my chain forever (with an occasional squirt of WD-40 when I’m in a rush and the chain is parched). Trouble is, the thing gunks up in no time. I’m talking caked-on crusts of fine, black, urban (NYC) grit. (My guess is that most of it comes from auto brake dust – I ride in traffic all the time.)
I hate cleaning that gunk from my chain + derailleur + crankset, so I’m ready to come into the Space Age. Surely there must be some new-fangled product(s) out there that can lube my chain without attracting all the grime? Yes?
(Oh, and yes I’m familiar with the olde trick of dunking the chain in melted parrafin instead of liquid oil. Sounds suspect but I’m willing to give it a try if other bikin’ dopers swear by it.)
I think any liquid product would attract build up of grime. I have found that the easiest way to keep my chain and rings dry is to lightly oil them and then wipe off as much of the excess as possible.
I am hoping someone has the miralce cure because this is a very dirty job!
Word on the streets is that WD-40 isn’t so hot for preventing rust/corrosion(I was a messenger). A light machine oil or any 10W-30 will work just fine.
If I am in the mud I try to hose off the bike soon afterward, towel dry, and hit the chain and bearings with a quick shot of spray oil(anything but WD-40).
Grime is something you can’t avoid. It’s not like you can use graphite. Just make sure you clean the chain if you see any serious build-up forming. If you find that the grime is caked-on and hardening, remove the chain and spray it with an engine degreaser(**Gunk** brand products work well) over plenty of newspaper or an old towel. If you do it over your lawn it will kill the grass and if you do it over pavement it might discolor it(if that is an issue for you). Clean the chain thoroughly with soap and water in a bucket to completely remove all traces of the degreaser. If you don’t, the oil won’t stick and you will actually be accelerating corrosion.
Lastly, don’t over oil your chain or it will make a big mess of your leg or clothes.
don’t use the degreaser anywhere near linoleum or hardwood floors, as it will create an instant slip-and-slide that is a pain to remove. I don’t know why the degreaser is as oily as oil, but it can be pretty slippery. Only use it outdoors because the smell will linger in any house or garage forever. It is extremely flammable and degreaser-soaked newspapers or towels should probably be sprayed with water before tossed into a garbage can or dumpster.
Sadly, most engine degreasers are an environmental nightmare. I wish I could suggest something that isn’t so toxic, as any way you use it it will eventually end up in the ground water somewhere. I have not tried any of the Simple Green products on my bike chain but it says on the label that it can be used on engines, I suppose to dissolve grease. I suggest you try that first, I am sure it will work just fine.
If you’re doing mostly urban riding, go for one of the ‘dry’ lubes. Pedro’s Extra Dry has teflon in it. The White Lightning lubes are wax based. First get the chain COMPLETELY de-greased and dry. Kerosene is great, but not environmentally friendly. I’ve used a biodegradable degreaser from Finish Line that works great. Take the chain off to make the job easier. When applying the lube, don’t use too much. One small drop per link is all you need. It sounds tedious, but it only takes a couple minutes to lube the chain one link at a time.
If you crack your chain to give it a good scrub, remember to toss it in the oven (lowest setting) to dry it out.
I use Tenacious too-- and my only suggestion is to make sure you wipe off excess oil very well. Pro Mechanics (I’m just an amateur) will tell you that most cyclists use way too much oil on their chains.
Put a cloth around the chain & run the pedal backwards slowly. Keep the chain dry not drippy.
If you put your OP question into the URL box as an address you can find some interesting links. HEre is some info from one:
"Chain-suck becomes THE major issue when you experience it. Pedalling action is brought
to an abrupt binding stop, and you fall over into the dirt. It can be tenaciously difficult to
eliminate during a ride, and keeps recurring once initiated.
It usually occurs when the chain and cogs of your bicycle get muddy or wet and gritty
(but can also occur in clean conditions), and is worse on steep uphill slopes or when
otherwise pedalling with force. And simply washing mud and grit from the chain and cogs
often won't get rid of the problem."
Just remember White Lightning is a wax based lube. Very good in the summer but in the winter it tends to goop up. And never mix a wax based lube with non-wax based lube, it gets very messy and is bad for the chain.
The best way is to use at least three chains, or even more.
Put one on the bike(of course) one in a paraffin dip, one hanging up and drying ready for oiling.
Swap your chain on the bike a couple of times a week, you will also find your sprockets last far longer too, which is useful if you happen to use titanium alloy ones.
Once you get used to this you will used much less chain cleaner, the sediment drops to the bottom of the prarffin bowl, it takes about the same time to swap a chain as it does to clean it in-situ.
I have had excellent results on bike chains with LPS #2. Spray it on the chain while it is turning (a friend for a helper to turn the pedals) and hold a rag under the chain to catch any excess. Once you’ve shot the whole chain, run it through the rag a couple of times to get the outside clean.
Even better, if you can, pull the chain, hang it up and spray it down. Let if hang for a day to drip off the excess.
The real secret to any chain lube is to get inside the rollers. Ones that are too thick, or a quick spray job that only covers the outside, are as bad as no lube at all.
Lay the bike upside down on the floor over an old towel. Slowly turn the crank with one hand and spray with the other.
BTW, I LOVE LPS products, especially the electrical contact cleaner. A bit pricy but I have revived many an old drill motor with it and even spraying some inside your tools if they are in good condition seems to restore power lost to corroded contacts.
