How hard is it to install a new garage door lifter?

My garage door is FUBARed I guess. It started being really flighty a couple months ago. Stopping decent randomly and going back up. It got worse and worse until it wouldn’t go down at all. The the LED on the beam started blinking. So I got a new beam sensor pair and it worked great for 2 days. Then it started blinking and hasn’t stopped for 2 months I assumed it as the logic board, but it is not replaceable ( 90’s system, I’d guess) . So now I just get out, walk into the garage, and hold down the wired button until it hits the ground.

It’s an old(90’s as I guessed before ) Genie Screw drive system. I don’t see many screw screw drives around anymore. So I’m guessing there is no way around replacing the track and setting the limits, but my understanding is that that part isn’t all that hard, am I wrong?

PS. I am not going to mess withe the spring. I know that is an idiot’s errand. But the spring is a counter balance system that works whether there is an electric lifter or not, I am only curious about replacing the lifter, is there any way to find a compatible screw-drive these days?

I’m a handyman and have done it. It’s not hard in theory. The execution can become challenging. It’s also MUCH easier with an extra set of hands. If you are reasonably mechanically inclined I’d say set aside the better part of a day.

Here is a video I found using “replacing a screw type garage door lifter”.

There were others

+1

I’ve done 3 or 4 of these, 2 by myself. I think you need at least moderate HandySkillz for this project.

I certainly agree it is preferable to have a helper, but if you are going solo all you really need is a ladder to rest the unit on while you install the mounting hardware.

Good luck.
mmm

I do a lot of DIY. Worked my way through college in construction.

I’ve left garage door openers to the pro installers. It’s worth the install fee and it should be bundled in with buying the equipment.

Garage door openers need to work, every time. It shouldn’t bind or jam. Go up unevenly etc.

Sears installed my last one in 2000. I’ll have to find a different company whenever it’s time to replace it again. So far, it’s worked great and I don’t anticipate replacing it for several years.

If you have someone install it, try to be there during the installation and monitor it from time to time. When Sears installed mine, when they were installing the external keypad they were going to put it right next to the garage, on the wall facing the front of the house. My garage is at a corner of my house and I told them to mount it around the corner, behind the downspout — literally 18” away from where they were going to put it, but now it’s somewhat hidden and not an obvious eyesore.

You can’t fix stupid, but you can prevent stupid from making a mistake on your house.

I’ve done three from-scratch installs on my own. All worked great.

For two of them the standard length boom was a bit too long to fit between beams and I had to come up with variations to get them in.

So, kinda tricky.

If you already have an opener, presumably a lot of the work has already been done.

So, don’t worry about. You’re probably gold.

Garage door openers are getting pretty impressive from a techno-usability standpoint. Some of the better models are coming with wifi integration so you can use your phone as a remote and stuff like that. Screw drives tend to be quieter, but don’t last unless you are good about keeping them lubricated. Chain drive is probably the most reliable, but a little noisier. Biggest pitfall in my view is getting the motor securely mounted and aligned, and also the place where any contract installer will skimp to save time resulting in a less than satisfying install.

It’s a fairly straightforward and easy job for anyone with a modicum of mechanical ability, just time consuming - several hours at least, depending on how good you are.

This has been my experience as well. I have assembled chain type lifts single handed. I attached it to the door with the drive unit on the floor then rested it on a ladder to get it close to the ceiling bracket. You can also use a rope cradle to hold it up while bolting it to the bracket.

I have never installed a full door but I have replaced a set of springs that run on the sides of the track. I am hesitant to deal with the torsion spring type of door (single spring above door).

Spring replacement is tricky. Once I was struggling with one, and my wife and YouTube saved the day.

Thanks all for the advice. I got one and got it 90% installed today. I decided to run new wires for everything so those still have to be tacked up, the battery backup isn’t on yet, and the keypad isn’t even out of the package yet. But it goes up and down from the button in the garage, and the remote in the car. :slight_smile:

Yeah, don’t do one of those unless you really, really know what you’re doing. The tension in one of those springs can take an arm off, or worse.

I’ll never forget one Christmas Eve when we heard a sound like a gunshot from the garage. Had no idea what it was, but when I went to leave the house, the garage door didn’t budge. The extreme cold had made the old spring brittle, and it just snapped. With nothing to ease the full weight of the garage door, it wasn’t budging. I had to call the local installer’s “emergency line” to have a guy come replace it at holiday hourly rates. It was just one guy who came out, but he had the tools and knew what he was doing, so he was done fast. Money well spent.

Congrats. We knew you could do it :slight_smile:

I am late to the game as you are already finished but I installed the $120 Chamberlain replacement motor and sensors in ~90 minutes replacing one from the 60s/70s. Quite easy and I even had to drop it off when we replaced the drywall in the garage and popped it back up in ~ 10 minutes. One of the more rewarding DIY projects due to its ease!

It’s a bit late for the OP, and their current level of success seems to indicate their opener was truly failing, but before condemning a cranky opener, pull the rope to release the carriage from the rail and be sure the door opens and closes smoothly.

If the door binds, jams, or is just really heavy, you need to fix the broken rollers, bent track, etc. before trying to make a new opener try to overpower a bad door.

One summer afternoon my sister decided to clean her car in a narrow 1 car garage attached to her house. After some time she decided to go inside and have a glass of wine.

She came back and decided it would be easier if she finished cleaning in the driveway. Forgetting that the rear passenger side door was still ajar, she backed out of the garage.

The door hit the track and wall. The rear door pushed forward, broke the frame to the front door, pushed that to the windshield and needless to say it shattered with the rest of the glass involved.

It also took out the track for the garage door as well as part of the structure of the garage in that corner. The garage door fell on top of her car and there was structure damage to the garage.

She did not know what to do so she called the police. It must have been a slow day as 4 police cars showed up laughing at her and telling her it happened on private property and all the can do is take a report.

As embarrassed as she was, she then called her insurance company (As advised by the police). The car was totaled, the structural damage to the garage was fixed and she got a new garage door.

So that is a solution to your problem, depending on your deductible and sobriety. I’d skip the wine though. :smack:

I am not condoning anyone do this on purpose.

I agree. I can’t imagine skipping the wine on purpose.

I’ve replaced two of them (at different houses). It’s not that difficult if the infrastructure to support the opener is already there.