[QUOTE=Gbro]
When storing emergency fuel I would suggest Non-Oxygenated fuel only and add stabilizer to it.
[/QUOTE]
Adding some stabilizer is a great idea, but where do you find non-oxygenated fuel? The only option arond here is leaded race fuel, but that’s in the neighborhood of 112 octane and nine bucks a gallon. For people that don’t live near a race track, this may be hard to find.
I don’t understand all of this snark about Q’s questions. He has gas cans, can obviously buy more and fill them, but no matter how many he buys and fills, his cars will still constitute an additional supply of gasoline that he would like to be able to access if he needs it.
A Chilton guide for your car models will probably show you everything you need to know to do what you want to do. They should show what kind of anti-siphoning device is there, and where everything else is. Good luck.
I don’t get it either. 
Thanks to those who were helpful.
Well I for one thought that the OP had been answered and I haven’t snarked in awhile and saw an opportunity; so there you have it.
I was actually surprised that this question hadn’t come up more recently, like during hurricane Sandy. One reason I keep my gas tank full is because of such emergencies.
I think some of this is not snark but the inability to read.
Why are people bringing up sharks?
Are they trying to say that this thread has jumped the shark?
I came up with this years ago, and am suprised that few seem to know about it. Very simple, but takes a lot of words to explain:
Sucking on the hose to start a siphon is a good way to get a mouth full of gasoline or worse. My way ovoids any chance of this.
It requires a second hose, which can be a fairly small diameter, and fairly short. In practice I usually have some automotive vacuum hose around, and that works fine. It only needs to reach from your mouth to the opening of the fuel tank. You also need a rag or some such.
Insert the siphon hose into the tank so it reaches the liquid. Put the other end into the catch container. As with all siphons, the outlet end of the siphon hose needs to be lower than the inlet end.
Now place the second hose just into the tank. It need not (and best not) reach the liquid. Now wrap the rag tightly around and between both hoses and stuff it all into the tank opening such that a fairly air-tight seal is formed. It won’t be perfect, and it doesn’t need to be.
Now blow into the short hose. This will pressurize the tank enough to start a siphon in the long tube. Once the siphon starts, you will need to remove the rag so a vacuum doesn’t form in the tank and stop the siphon. The open short tube will do this, but if it is small, it will slow the siphoning.
A big tank, partly empty will probably require more than one breath to get enough pressure to start the siphon. When you stop blowing to take the next breath, the pressure in the tank will blow gas fumes out the short tube and make you gag. (and it is not healthy to inhale such) With very little practice, you can prevent this by sealing the end of the tube with your tongue while you draw the next breath. Much harder to explain than to do, and smaller tubing makes it easier.
One other thing I have learned the hard way, and this may be peculiar to Fords, since those are the only cars I have siphoned from:
The fuel filler neck is not a single tube. There is a concentric rubber flexible tube inside it that is the actual fill path. The steel outer tube allows air to come out of the tank as fuel is fed into the tank via the central tube. If you are aggressive with inserting a siphon tube, it is easy to detach the upper end of the inner-tube and push it into the tank. This will cause fueling problems, as the pump will keep shutting off when the now single tube needs to “burp”. Fixing this is a royal PITA, which may require buying a new filler neck and/or dropping the tank for access.
So don’t use a very stiff siphon tube, like the PE irrigation tube I found this out with. Use a flexible siphon tube and finesse it into the tank rather than forcing it.
Bitches will bitch. Snarks will snark, and snakes will bite you. It’s their nature.
I, for one, was taught that the difference between a real man and a pussy is knowing how to siphon gas out of a car. So it’s disconcerting they’re apparently installing manliness-stealing-devices in our cars now.
Can anyone confirm this?
Not Crotalus!
NATO Jerry Cans 20 Liter are the option I went with. Bought 2 so far.
I use this handy little pump to transfer the gas into 2 gal cans. Then fill my generator. The pump has an auto shut off that prevents overflows. Very handy when filling the generator at night by flashlight. 
This setup served me well for the 7 day outage that we had starting Christmas night and ending New Years Day afternoon. That’s a white Christmas I didn’t want.
I did a couple google searches on non-oxy fuels and I see tha my home State of MN is quite different than a bunch of other states in regards to the oxygenate additives in the fuel, therefore maybe all of your premium fuels are what we have labeled as Non-oxy fuel that is specifically for small motors like atv’s, outboards, lawn mowers, collector cars etc.
The 87 obtain unleaded fuel at our stations is Shit Gas, and will go bad in a very short time if not stabilized and that is like 3 months in some cases.
Kevbo, your method is very good in some of the old school fuel systems. In modern autos the fuel tank is not vented back out the fill access, all venting is done through the evap system. That system forces all vapors through a filtration system and that system can become clogged if the vehicle is driven on dusty muddy roads and then you will notice there is a little problem when you have to trickle fuel into your car to the tune of 15 or more min to top off a empty tank, and now do that at -30 degerees!
Pickups we drive in the mines have to be modified to prevent this by installing a in-line fuel filter to the evap breather line and then the filter needs to be changed every couple months. A $6 disposable filter or a $200 evap canister. :dubious: