How to start a car with a crank handle?

I have a 1972 Citroen DS. This car has an electric starter but also a cranking handle.

I tried the other day to start it with the crank but I failed miserably. I had it warmed up so it would start easily, turned it off and then tried with the crank. I cranked and cranked and nothing happened. Then I started it with the electric starter but it started with some difficulty, like it was vapour locked :confused:

I’ve found some vids on Youtube and it seems so easy. Is there some specific trick to the Citroen DS?

(Before you ask, yes, the electrics were on before I started cranking)

Wow-- that’s a sweet machine. I’m not sure I agree with the people who said it was the most beautiful car of all time, but still nice.

On really olde tymey cars, you had a whole procedure where you had to set the mixture and the spark timing to just such a setting, but I imagine the Citroen is probably advanced enough that you just need to turn the thing in the right direction, with the ignition on.

You can’t turn the engine by hand anywhere near as fast as the starter can, so if the engine is a little bit out of tune, it’ll start with the electric start but not by hand. I’d check the plugs, timing and point dwell and then try it again.

And be careful. Unless there’s something about the Citroen that protects against it, I’ve heard stories (mostly of older time cars like the Ford Model T) of the crank doing the cranker serious injury when the engine catches…

Cheers,

bcg

The damage does not happen when the engines starts. But if it does not start and back fires spinning the engine backwards.

Some engines it is better crank going over the top and some pulling from under.

According to my da, on old cars, it was key to NOT wrap your thumb around the crank handle. If the spark fired BTDC, the engine turns backward, and the one-way clutch allows it to kick back against your arm.

Never hand cranked a car, but have kick started many bikes, and hand-propped a few airplanes, largest was Lycoming O-540.

Having the engine well tuned, and knowing it well are the keys to non-electric starting.

If it has a manual choke it’s pretty easy to flood the engine.

Hand-propping an O-540? You are/were a LOT gutsier than I’ve ever been - or was there some pharmaceutical boost? :stuck_out_tongue:
As to the car - see manual. The timing and spark and choke may need tweaking - I have never touched one of those, so don’t know.

Yes, when cranking (Model A Ford), once setting the various levers and knobs, the procedure was to crank slowly until the handle was in the 8 o’clock - 9 o’clock position, then lift rapidly WITHOUT thumb - or use an arm you don’t really need.
As stated, the problem was back-fire - just develop the habit of pulling your hand out ot the arc of the crank as it comes to 12 o’clock.

When you say you “turned it off”, you turned it back on so the ignition was on right?

Read the last line of my OP :slight_smile:

The only hand cranking advice I can give stems from old tractor engines, where everything was set manually!

Hand cranking…at least the way I do it with the red McCormick and orange Case.

Make sure it’s in neutral!

Open throttle just a little

Turn on the fuel and ignition

Full choke

Now here’s the odd thing…I’m a righty, yet I crank with my left hand. I guess it’s so I’ll break the arm I use the least? :smiley: I am also able to stand farther from the crank if I use my left hand. It’s just a preference.

When beginning to crank Position the crank at the BOTTOM (six O clock). Sometimes it’s not exactly at six, but it’s better to have it at 7 or 8 O clock than 4 or 5 O clock

Put ALL your fingers on the same side of the crank (don’t wrap your thumb around it) and PULL UP to turn the engine over. Repeat as needed to get it fired up. You will need to learn what combo of choke and throttle that your tractor likes the best.

The main rule is to never PUSH DOWN on the crank. Always pull up. If it’s at the wrong spot to pull up, remove the crank and insert at 6 O clock again. Don’t spin it around and around like you may see in movies. Spinning the crank, or pushing it down will lead to bruised pride and broken bones.

I’d give ya a demonstrative video, but I don’t have any. And the red one is stored for the winter. Is this close enough?

WARNING: Link to a video…

Thanks for the advice. The choke and gas is on the same switch on the Citroen. I didn’t use it though because the engine was warmed. I will try again with the choke turned on.

Oops, sorry :smack:.

Hand cranking is DEFINITELY something that takes a lot of practice to get the knack for it. And every engine is different in what it likes to start properly.

And this is probably not an issue for you, but engines that are worn out or just have problems do not start easily by hand, if at all. That’s when we get out the log chain to pull start!

Or those newfangled electric starters work wonders too. :stuck_out_tongue:

I had a Citroen GS and was surprised to find a hand crank among the tools.

Had to try it out of course and it worked fine and was fairly easy though I wouldn’t want to be doing it all the time.

It was a much smaller engine than the DS of course, only 1222cc and IIRC there was no manual choke or advance/retard on the ignition.

I was wary of the kickback, having had kick-start motorbikes but it never happened.

I have hand-cranked and kick-started quite a few motors, gasoline and diesel, two and four stroke, over the years and I would say three main things:

Each motor is unique and as you get to know it starting it becomes easier. The owner of each motorcycle can start it with one gentle kick whereas he will have trouble with the next guy’s bike with which he is unfamiliar.

A well tuned and adjusted motor is easier to start.

A touch of starting fluid works wonders. Specially with a cold diesel. Spray a bit in the intake and it starts on the first turn.

No crack pipes involved. I would NOT want to be doing it without all my wits about me. Helped that it was a tail dragger, (Pawnee) as this puts the crankshaft up high so you can use your weight to pull it through, without having to lean toward the meat slicer like you might have to if it were tri-geared. Also I’m 6’5" and, ahem, well over 200#, which probably helps a lot. I probably wouldn’t do it again unless I knew and trusted the pilot as well as I did Chase.