How to unstick a stuck barbecue grill vent?

Factual Questions
1

I have an old but still in pretty good shape Weber kettle-style grill with vents at the bottom that are opened and closed with a single metal lever. It’s gotten stuck tight and does not budge at all. Fortunately the vents are stuck in a mostly open position so I can still grill, but obviously it’s not ideal.

I’ve examined it and it doesn’t look like an assembly that can really be taken apart. Normally for anything that doesn’t move, but should, I would blast it with some WD-40 or bolt loosener, but I don’t want chemicals contaminating my grill. I tried lubricating the area well with vegetable oil but that didn’t seem to do anything.

Any ideas for how I can fix this? I am thinking of getting a new grill, but I don’t want to just throw this one out. I’d like to salvage ti as an up-north grill at a friend’s property.

2

One hot fire will get rid of any traces of WD-40. If it still worries you try vegetable oil, alcohol, kerosene to loosen it up.

3

What is stuck? Is it rusted? Is there a lot of hardened ash around the vanes that are preventing it from moving?

I’d hose it out thoroughly, wire brush any rust, then tap on the handle with a hammer until it starts to move.

4

It’s probably seized with rust, hitting it with something like PB Blaster should work. But the vegetable oil might do the trick. Tapping the stuck piece lightly with a hammer should also help.

5

I do have PB Blaster, which works great for stuck bolts, but seems like it would be far too toxic to use inside a grill. If I do go the chemical route I’d probably feel better going with WD-40, per TriPolar’s recommendation, which I think is less toxic.

I think it’s hardened ash. Probably a high-pressure hose out, wire brush, then some type of lubricant, possibly in several applications, will do the trick.

Thanks for the replies so far.

6

You mentioned in the OP that vegetable oil didn’t work. I’d go with WD40 next as well. Then remove the grates and make a super hot fire before using it again.

7

I did see that in the OP initially. I was listing other alternatives, then edited down my list to remove gasoline and something else, ended up replacing it with the already mentioned vegetable oil. :slight_smile:

@solost, vegetable oil would work slowly, won’t be effective at all on rust I think. PB is smellier than WD but both have similar ingredients. The thin penetrating oils in both get absorbed by rust and burnt oil and so they can then break apart easily. Although considered a lubricant by many, they aren’t very good at that, however not your concern here.

BLO (Boiled linseed oil) is another option. Makes a pretty good penetrating oil on its own, not smelly like the others, but also incredibly flammable. Great rust preventive on it’s own that doesn’t leave a sticky film or odor.

8

And you don’t have to rely solely on fire to remove any solvents. I would wash it out with a good detergent, rinse it well with water, and then use the fire.

9

Yea, it depends on what’s causing it.

Since they’re That. Stuck. I’d take the opportunity to fully empty it of ash and bits and flip it over in some grass or cardboard. It will be a lot easier to work on the vents. They might need to be gently lifted from the kettle but not so far they remain bent. After they break, cleaners and lubes should be able to pick up the pace.