After a few weeks of research and about a 30 min chat with a guy in an electronics shop, I decided to add laptop jack repair to my repertiore of computer repair services I offer in my business.
Today have successfully completed my third successful laptop jack repair.
Many of my competing shops charge $150-$200, me $135
About two months ago my roommate had to have her jack replaced. My other roommate and I tried to fix it as best we could, but we didn’t want to actually open it up, for fear of breaking it. Since it was just loose in the case, we manged to get it into the right position to plug in the AC adapter, then duct taped the plug into the jack so that it was always in. Seeing as she never took her laptop anywhere, it was ok for her. Eventually, though, the cat knocked her laptop off her desk and it landed right where the plug was and it caused it to move around enough to that something inside arced (we could see the electrical burn on the plastic around the jack,) and the jack itself finally died, so she had to get it fixed. I think it actually cost her only around $100, but that’s because originally it was more (I forget the exact amount,) but after she got it back, the keyboard didn’t work (I guess they forgot to reconnect it or something.) When she went back they not only fixed the keyboard for free but refunded a bit of the original price.
Good to see there are at least a few of you stand-up guys in the computer repair business, and not just the ones who charge $100 for something as simple as spy ware removal. Seriously, I’ve seen ads in the paper and such for “computer cleaners” that claim to make your PC run faster and better for only $100, without even having to open it up! I feel very sorry for the fools who don’t realize all they are doing is running Ad Aware and some anti-virus program.
My laptop is less than a year old, a Toshiba, and (growl) SOMEone came clomping through and stepped on the mouse cord while the laptop sat on the coffee table. Doh.
So, it’s not COMPLETELY broken, but if I stick something in that port, it’s really loose, and a black plastic bit comes out when I pull it out and I have to carefully ease that back in around the pins. (Am I making sense?)
I’d like to know if this is repair-able, 'cuz Toshiba won’t even admit the existence of my model of laptop. And without that, I can’t ask them… all I get is a “Well, that model isn’t listed, sir,” delaying tactic.
No prob, that would just be pulling the old jack and mounting a new one, model shouldn’t be a problem since any toshiba USB jack from that time frame will probably be identical. If you feel like letting me take a crack at it drop me an email at service@pcsearchandrescue.com and we can work something out.
What model is the laptop?
As drachillix said it should be a pretty easy fix as long as the jack still works, sometimes they get shorted and blow the usb controller then it’s a new motherboard.
Just now a cow-orker came into my cube asking about fixing his laptop power connector. He said it was loose, and for a while if he wiggled it he could get it to work but now he can’t get it to turn on alt all even with a fresh battery. I’m pretty sure he has cooked his motherboard. I’ll take it home and check it out, but I told him not to get his hopes up.
So, a tip for all you laptop users. if a connector is loose, stop using the laptop, remove the battery and get it serviced.
One of the ones I fixed arced hard enough to very noticably melt plastic on the laptop case as well as the male plug from the power supply fortunately the motherboard itself did not appear to be damaged.
It’s a Toshiba Satellite Pro M40, model #PSM46C-CZ10XE. I bought it new off of Geeks.Com, with a 1-year manufacturer warranty. It’s still within the warranty period, but Toshiba does not recognize the model on their website, and their techs can’t seem to find it either. It’s very frustrating.
Anyway, the jack still works, though I’ve stopped using it for obvious reasons :). I’d like to get it fixed someday but I wasn’t aware that laptops could be serviced – I always thought your options were (a) live with it, or (b) send it in and get a refurb, maybe with your data transferred but probably not, in return.
All of the sites I am finding via a quick google are in canada and the UK. I bet this model was not intended for US distribution and that is my guess why they are stonewalling you.
I have located M40 info on toshibas site if the techs need a linky it came up under sattellite, not sattelite pro.
Yeah, I found those too, but the specs listed don’t quite match my machine, usually; the third one is the closest match (and the only one I hadn’t seen before).
So, if it wasn’t intended for US distribution, how’d I end up buying it? Arrgh. sigh
Well, anyway, I’ll drop your email a line in a day or two, to see about the feasibility of getting it fixed. I’ll probably be in Cali around April, so if your location is accurate and you’re still in the biz, I might swing by to get it handled by a pro.
It happens now and then, occasionally an adventuresome wholesaler looking to make an extra buck sells off product in an area where someone else has distribution rights.
The jack on my wife’s laptop broke a while ago, and since the computer was very old and basically obsolete, the battery had long since died, and she only ever used it while plugged in, I just cut it off, tied a knot inside the case, and soldered it in permanently.
I tend to make little pigtails on my repairs, solder the new wiring, knot it off inside the hole for the jack and solder a new inline female jack to match so the new jack is flexible and less likely to be snapped off again since it will just pivot in line with force applied to it and pull straight apart.