As I mentioned in this thread, I have tonight returned from China where I saw this year’s total solar eclipse on August 1. Eclipse was awesome.
We watched from an alpine meadow that was fragrant with sage. We’d previously had a really interesting interaction with some rural local folk in a quite remote village, and were looking forward to seeing these people’s reaction to totality, but the Chinese army chased us out. So with less than a half hour to spare, the astronomers and photographers packed up their gear and we found a new observation site in the nick of time.
Details:
The group had originally planned an observation in the Chinese Mongolian province, also known as “Inner Mongolia,” as opposed to the completely different country of Mongolia, AKA “Outer Mongolia.” Our tour leaders had completed mountains of paperwork, and had written approvals to travel there, and all plans were based around that permission. Four days before the eclipse the Chinese government sent a communication that said, basically, “Yes, we know we gave you permission to go there, and you did everything we asked, but we are now withdrawing that permission.”
So the organizers jumped through another set of hoops to get permission to observe near the town of Yiwu. This necessitated a 10-hour bus trip from our base of operations. En route we went through several check points, where passports were checked vs. the approved list. Then at a final check point we were told we couldn’t go further. Negotiations ensued. Officials searched all our luggage, and visually confirmed all passports. Further negotiations granted us permission to proceed a short way to a meadow within view of the checkpoint, where it was estimated we might be able to make clear observations. It was here that we were met with much curiosity from the local people, who did not even speak the same language as our Chinese tour guide. We attempted to explain where we were from and what we were doing there, and distributed some safe eclipse viewing glasses. Astronomers and photographers set up their equipment and we settled in to wait for the grand event.
And then an army officer arrived and said we had to leave. We had already been told by our tour guide that while one might have a discussion with a policeman, do not under any circumstances argue with the soldiers in China. It is illegal even to photograph them.
This was my third eclipse; I saw one in Australia in 2002, another in Libya in 2006. Too bad we didn’t have a cooperative government this year. It’s pretty sad – the Libyan government, a former terrorist state, was more helpful and more cooperative than the government that’s hosting this year’s Olympic games.
I’ll be off to sleep soon, I hope, but if anyone has any questions about the experience or anything related, I hope to be able to respond later.