Gosh, Paris … you lucky dog you.
The Metro really is the best way to get around, it goes everywhere you want to go (although it doesn’t run much past midnight). First thing when you’re there, you should get the Paris version of a unlimited ride Metrocard, which I think is called either “Paris Visite” or “Paris Touriste” depending whether you get it for three or five or however many days. It’s very affordable and you can hop on and off the Metro as much as you like.
An important thing to point out (especially to a New Yorker) is that the metro car doors do not open automatically, you have to open them yourself if you want to get out.
For art, there are of course the worlds greatest museums, along with the world’s largest crowds. November, however, is a good time to go, and you will most likely be spared the worst of the crowds. See the big stuff, like the Louvre and d’Orsay, but pace yourselves and don’t feel that you have to spend five minutes in front of every single thing.
The best small museum, IMHO, is the Picasso Museum, in the Marais. It’s short and sweet, and has some of the best Picassos in the world all in one place. Also has a good gift shop.
One thing that I have noticed is that while Parisian cuisine is magnificent, it’s only good the way Parisians like to eat it – that is, in very nice restaurants where you have many courses and bottles of wine and linger over coffee and digestifs. When you are out and about during the day, the sandwiches and croques and what-not that you can grab and go are usually not very good. The best eat and run food, in my opinion, can be found at the Middle Eastern and Greek and Caribbean places that have sprung up in the past ten years or so. Stay far, far away from snack bars in museums or other attractions.
If you like Hemingway, read “A Movable Feast” before you go to Paris. Even if you don’t like Hemingway, you might like this, because it’s all short essays about the years he lived in Paris.