I'm moving to China next Wednesday. General advice?

Take a deep breath, count to ten, and smile. Repeat. Below is a reenactment of my first trip to the Taiwanese (The Other China™) “embassy” in Bangkok to pick up my resident visa.

{10:00am - irae waits 30 minutes after taking a number at the information desk. His number is called. Confident that his application has been prefiled by the school and authorized by the Ministry of Education, he makes his way to the window}

irae: Hello. My name is irae. Here is my passport. There is a cable from the Ministry of Education waiting for me. :slight_smile:

visa officer: No, there isn’t.

irae: Are you sure? My school has made the application, and the cable was sent last week. :slight_smile:

visa officer: Yes, I’m sure. You’ll need to fill out an application and take another number.

irae: Okay. :smiley:

{irae, having had the foresight to bring all of the necessary supporting documentation with him to Thailand, takes a new number and sets about the 40 minute task of rewriting the application. The number before his is called, and then the guards start evicting petitioners from the reception area for lunch. irae wanders out into the blazing Thai afternoon, has a plate of pad thai, reads his book till 2:00, then returns to the reception area. His number is called, and he returns to the window.}

irae: Here’s the application and all of my supporting documents. :slight_smile:

visa officer: This seems to be in order. Now we’ll need to cable the Ministry of Education and wait for their reply. It should take about four working days.

irae: But I’m fairly confident that the Ministry of Education has already cabled authorization for my visa. :smiley:

visa officer: Oh. You need to go check for your cable at the information desk.

{irae smiles, thanks the visa officer, and walks to the information desk.}

irae: Hello. My name is irae. Here is my passport. There is a cable waiting for me from the Ministry of Education. :slight_smile:

information desk clerk: No, there isn’t.

irae {smiling}: Yes, there is. :smiley:

information desk clerk: Okay. Look for your name in this book.

{irae finds his name in the book, and his cable is given to the visa officer at the window. Three minutes later, irae has his visa and is free to depart for a week in Krabi province. It is now 3:00pm.}

I’ve been in similar situations on average once a week for the past decade. Keeping your cool can transform an impossible situation into one that merely wastes an entire day or two.

The cool thing about culture shock is that it works like a sine wave. Sure, there are times when everything sucks and all you want to do is get back to a place that makes sense, but there are an equal number of days when you’re just goofily ecstatic to be where you are. Over time, the rollercoaster ride smooths out into the usual pattern of wake, work, eat, sleep, and then you’ve gone native!

Learn the pinyin romanization system before you leave (it’ll give you a way to visually represent words that you hear so that you can write them down and remember them when you’re learning), and bring a couple of phrase books and dictionaries. My personal favorite is a 1946 US Army phrasebook which lists such useful items as “Put your hands up!” and “Don’t try anything funny!” As a rank Taiwan newbie, I used to walk into restaurants, show them how much money I had, and point to the phrase “What do you recommend?”. This worked well until I stumbled into a seafood restaurant (indistinguishable from the run of the mill noodle shop to my eye) and showed them my NT$70 (three bucks). I was shown to my table, and eventually presented with a plate of celery and a bowl of mayonnaise. A couple of guys from the national opera company noticed my plight, invited me to sit with them, and even saved my face by “sharing” my celery while offering me sashimi and other goodies.

It’s been my experience that Chinese culture is extremely beautiful on a personal level, but falls apart rapidly if you enter any office (government or private) for any reason. The expat engineers over here have a favorite expression, “5000 years of civilization unimpeded by progress”.

Lot’s of good advice above.

Don’t be afraid of doing or eating a few things that helps you keep your sanity. Going 100% “native” usually results in burn out. So, if a Big Mac keeps you sane, get your butt over to one of 20 shenzhen McD outlets on a regular basis. Or 7-11, Pizza Hut or Hong Kong.

If you are planning on staying in China and moving/travelling from Shenzhen to somewhere else, I would highly recommend concentrating exclusively on learning Mandarin. In Shenzhen, maybe 25% of the population are native Cantonese speakers, but they all speak a passable amount of Mandarin. This is not true in Hong Kong, which is just over the border. If you get out of Guangdong Province, your Cantonese skills will be next to useless. Again, I highly recommend Mandarin unless you have some pretty strong reasons to learn Canto.

Remember, being that you’re less than 2 hours away from downtown Hong Kong, you don’t have to take so much “stranded on a desert island” type things that you would elsewhere in China.

You will find that most people could care less about politics. They could also care less when you voice your political opinions. Free wheeling Shenzhen is pretty far removed from being a centrally planned police state.

My father in law has lived in Shenzhen for 10 years, so I’ve spent a lot of time there over the years. It can be a lot of fun. It is very much a wild wild west type atmosphere where anything goes.

Wow, thanks for all the advice. One thing I have been wondering about is the availability of English books. Will I be able to find a Border’s or similar in Hong Kong to sell me reading material, or should I try to pack up War and Peace to keep me occupied for the whole year?

Oh, and about gifts. I’ve read that I should have a cache of cheap gifts to give to people. I’m not big on gifts, and I hate trinkets, so I’m not sure what to give. I need something I can give that won’t set me back too much and that won’t take up too much space in my luggage. My only idea so far is to get some pencils from a DC giftshop with the capitol building on them or something similarly kitchy.

Hong Kong is full of English language book shops. There’s a good one just next to the Star Ferry in Tsim Sha Tsui, and there are several near Lan Kwai Fong on Hong Kong island.

My experience of Shenzhen: it’s a wild city, and there are shady characters everywhere. If you’re adventurous, you’ll love it, but it’s hardly a fascinating cultural hotbed. Highlights are the weird theme-park with the 1/3-scale model of the Eiffel Tower, and also the Hong Kong Riding Club is a few miles away, in some strange Chinese holiday village, and can make a good weekend out. From Shenzhen to HK is a very easy journey, so if it all gets a bit much when you’re there, you can be in ‘civilisation’ in less than an hour (border delays notwithstanding).

My experience of China - pessimism works for Westerners. A lot of things don’t work as they should, so expect them not to, and you’ll be delighted when they do. Never lose your temper in public. Smile a lot. Be prepared to eat stuff that you would throw in the garbage at home. Learn as much of the language as you can. And try to understand that people’s outlook is way different from yours - don’t try to impose your values on them.

Most people’s experience with cultural adaptation goes thus: you’ll be overwhelmed at first, then get pissed off with a lot of things, then be mystified, then gain acceptance, and then you’ll fall in love.

I highly recommend this brilliant (though appallingly titled) book: Getting Along with the Chinese: for Fun and Profit.

WV_Woman, in my experience the people in China were just as free to speak their mind as we are in America. Despite the prevailing belief that our country is “free” and communist China is “repressed”, I never at any time felt restricted and saw no one whom I would say was prevented from doing almost anything they wanted to do.
If you wish to mention the Tiananmen Square incident, I would point you to our own Kent State incident.
I won’t deny that the Chinese government gets too aggressive at times; but I would say that our own government does too.
As for the implication that some make that our system is best and other cultures should adopt it, I fully believe that if China were to somehow switch to a capitalist system overnight, the entire country would descend into chaos and anarchy within days. I stand by my earlier statement that their system (a gradually modifying communist structure) is best for them.

(Sorry if this double posts. The Board seems to be hiccuping lately.)

My exes aunt did something similar to you. She taught English in Xiong Xing (sp) for a few years. She said that it was virtually impossible to learn any Chinese there since she was the portrait of the obnoxious American tourist (midwestern, guady bright clothes, loud, etc) and the Chinese people would practice their English on her instead of her practicing Chinese. She did say that after she got back she learned more Chinese from some computer software program that teaches in an immersive way. She wished she had gone through it before going over there so at least she wouldn’t have always felt so alone when not around people who couldn’t speak English or French.

MOOOOOOO!
Dairy Mary

Re: Bookshops in HK. Yes, but they’re expensive - maybe 50-100% above US prices. And the selection is pretty poor. The best is probably Page One (IIRC) in Times Square, Causeway Bay. I use Amazon a lot. There are a couple of second hand bookshops that are pretty good.

I agree with China Guy about not trying to “go native”. Anyway, you’re being hired partly for being foreign (it impresses the schools’ customers - schools here have been known to hire blond Germans to teach English instead of yellow-skinned native English-speaking Brits or Americans).

Not sure about the exact process of adaptation to a foreign country, but in my experience it goes a bit like this…

  1. A sense of wonder and excitement at new surroundings, idealization of the culture (and its women - be careful)
  2. Gradual growing realization of imperfections and irritations (screw pig intestines, I’m having a burger)
  3. Acceptance and adaptation (or not - as with wine, some people don’t travel well)

Like marriage, perhaps? It takes more than a year, anyway. You’ll be halfway through stage 2 after a year.

My on-line diary (website below) might give you an idea of expat life in HK, but this place really is different from the Mainland.