I haven’t been able to check in here since Nice, which is two countries ago. Right now I’m at a hotel in Montreux, Switzerland, waiting for the Golden Pass Line train to take me to Zürich. If I’d seen Arnold’s message before I might have tried for the Glacier Express (although I understand that the Golden Pass Line is wonderful), but then again not as I once more ended up here by accident.
From the Before Sunrise department:
I didn’t make it to Venice on my first try, as I met this Canadian girl on the train and ended up debarking with her in Verona instead of going on to Venice. We dropped off our bags at a hostel and got to walk around this beautiful city for several hours before the other tourists woke up. It was great. We ran into some other Canadians at the hostel and went to the Castelvecchio, a medieval castle that is now a museum. They were going to see Nabucco performed in the Roman arena in Verona and we ended up going too, buying our tickets minutes before the start of the show.
Opera isn’t exactly my favourite artform but no-one can deny that it can be powerful, and performed in those surroundings at night and you’re watching it sitting on the same piece of rock that someone was sitting on two thousand years ago while watching a gladiator fight a lion… it was something, that’s for sure.
We parted ways the next morning, she going to meet a friend in Paris and I moving on to Venice. The other Canadians had just come from Venice and had warned me about the place being touristed all to hell and jampacked with people, so my plan was to just walk around there for a few hours to have seen the coolest city in the universe and then go on to wherever, hopefully Switzerland and the Alps.
And whaddaya know, Canadians do end sentences with “eh”. The “aboot” thing I didn’t notice, though.
Once in Venice the only train I could find that suited me would give me three hours in Venice and put me in Montreux by 11.30 pm. Not ideal by a long shot, but I took it. God almighty, those guys were right about Venice. I managed to wander around in the tourist-free areas, and that Venice is indeed the coolest city in any plane or dimension. I wanted to sell my flat and move there. Then I ran into the tourist streaks, and that Venice was a nightmare. I’ve been to parts of Greece that were pretty bad, and Nice was pretty bad, but they had nothing on this shit. I still want to go back and stay longer than these few hours, though.
From the “Random Acts of Kindness” department:
So, I arrive in Montreux at 11.30 at night (after a lovely train ride involving dinner, wine, and pleasant conversation with an Argentinean gentleman who was able to identify Swedish writing, which is pretty unusual), walk around a bit trying to find a place to stay and finding only fully booked hotels. I go back to the train station and drop on a bench, sleep for a couple of hours, and then wake up with a pressing need to visit the restroom. I have a medical condition that changes this situation from “highly annoying” to “actual emergency”. The bathrooms in the train station are all closed, so I start to look around town for a public bathroom, stumble upon a hotel that I hadn’t seen before, ask for a room but get the same answer, but I do get to use the bathroom in the adjoining bar.
While I’m on my way out, they’re closing the bar for the night and one of the bartenders asks me what I’m going to do now. I reply that I guess I’m going back to the train station, I only needed a place to shower and change my clothes. He immediately offers me his own room. Floored, I accept. He shows me the room and the bathroom, hands me the key and asks me to stay until five, when he comes back from a visit to a friend. I happily promise to do so.
The thought that he might have gone to get Zed and tell him the spider just caught a fly does occur to me, but by then he’s left and I haven’t got much choice so I finish my shower, change my clothes and pass out on the floor of his room for a couple of hours. I make sure I can leave as quickly as possible and psyche myself up in case I need to fight.
He comes back and we talk a little. He offers me something to eat and I politely decline, but he rummages through his drawers and gives me what he has - a tube of Pringles - “just in case”. At this point I just have to ask why he’s being so nice.
“I’ve done a lot of bad things in the past, and I’m trying to make up for it.”
I met Earl Hickey. In Switzerland. By now I’m feeling bad I ever doubted the guy. There is good in the world, people.
Jumping Jesus on a frog’s back, this turned into a long post. I just had to share this stuff with someone, and you guys are such easy targets. Well then, Zürich next. All suggestions welcome, as always.
[sub]From the Points of Random Interest Department: In Switzerland they use QWERTZ.[/sub]