Installation of doggie-door... thoughts/prayers

I’m planning to install a doggie door (dd) in the garage. I’d prefer to cut a hole in the big door and I’m concerned about placement. What structural issues lay before me if I cut the hole as outlined in these photos?

I suspect that the bottom edge of (the inside of) the upper panel will also need to be cut/angled/formed to allow it to close around the dd frame. I don’t consider this as big an issue as what I might do, structurally, to the lower panel. Though I could be overlooking something.

Also, the garage door is not opened very often (in case that matters).

Any thoughts/input/anecdotes/equations/jokes would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Since the force of the automatic garage door opener lifting arm goes right down the middle, I might suggest moving the doggie door off to the side.

I installed 2 of these last weekend. But just in regular doors.

I’d suggest lowering it a little bit, so that the top rail of the lower panel of the garage door is not compromised.

I’m not an engineer or a building trades specialist, but here’s what makes sense to me:

The panels in the door don’t add a lot to its structural integrity. While removing several might be a problem, I don’t see removing or cutting into one as anything to worry about.

The framing grid that surrounds the panels is important, and I’d avoid cutting it if possible. The upper few inches of your outline worry me. I’m wondering if a different size/shape door would fit the dog and the panel without cutting into the frame.

The weight of the door is spread along its width through the hinges. I don’t think being close to the center makes a difference.

I’d call a garage door company to talk to a specialist to get accurate info about what’s advisable and what’s not.

Cutting the ridge is a very bad idea - the 16x7 in this place has been mauled so badly that one of the rails (that your pic wants to cut) is broken - the thing will not close nicely, and cannot be operated by the opener - I have to lift it by hand.

DO NOT CUT - especially not the top and/or bottom rails.

p.s. - if you are thinking of cutting a door so your dog can run down the driveway and play in traffic (or become a neighborhood pest), please reconsider.

I kind of had this thought, too. Why the big garage door? Why not the side or back door? Most garage doors like that go to the drive way and then into the street.

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. You guys addressed the main concerns that were floating through my mind.

A few notes about the situation may be in-order. I thought that cutting the garage door may be a better approach. First, there’s the large, thin panel… easy to cut. And I reasoned that the hole (and ultimately the dd) would look better in the garage than in the old, wood, raised-panel door (not shown in photo) used for human ingress/egress. The garage opens into the back yard and behind the fence. That’s one of the reasons that I don’t open it or use it very often. I’ve even disconnected the automatic opener; the spring’s adjusted well so the door’s not too heavy, and I just don’t open/close it with any regularity.

My main concern was the upper frame part of that door panel and how much rigidity it brings to the whole. Seems like most are in-agreement that it would be a bad idea to cut that. I thought about lowering it an inch or so, to keep some of it in-tact. However, to be high enough (~2” above my hound’s shoulders), I really need to take the whole frame. That being said, do we all agree that a full 2" is needed?

I’m now in the “re-thinking” stage.

I would suggest turning your blue-tape rectangle on its side, so the panel you want to cut out goes right to that bottom support. I would make a new panel out of 3/4 inch solid wood (no plywood), and have at least one (two would be better; one at each corner) sliding bolt to secure the door at night or when you’re away so the raccoons can’t get in and borrow your power tools–they never bring 'em back, the little bastards.

I have never seen a dog negotiate a low opening, so I can’t say one way or the other, but:

Why couldn’t your dog squeeze through a hole even a bit lower than its highest point?

Cats certainly can, and every rodent I’ve seen can, as can raccoons, weasels et. al., and who knows what else - it’s not like a tunnel.

And I agree on use of a door that can be secured - I’d even suggest a wooden frame - ix2’s inside and out, screwed together through the metal panel. Use a heavy plastic for the dog’s use, but have a hinged door that can be bolted shut when security dictates.
A hook and eye could hold the wooden door open.

I prefer to mount my Doggy doors in the walls instead of doors. I hate the way doggy doors look mounted in any kind of door.

You cut holes in your outer wall for a dog door??

I agree that in the pictures the cut is too high. You want to leave a solid border on the panel.

Sure. At least I have.

As for security. Every DD I have purchased has a slide in panel to keep unwanted critters out.

In a garage absolutely. I want to do this and add a pen in the garage so the dog can have yard access and a nice comfy place inside when it wants.

I guess if it’s a rinky dink garage wall. On my current place and previous ones, the brick facade extends along the garage. It would be a big undertaking to cut a hole in that.

Btw they have smart dog doors that read the identification chip that many dogs now have implanted. Only unlocks it for your dog so racoons can’t get in.

Unless the raccoons surgically remove Rover’s…oh, never mind.

Make sure you are not cutting beams or wires in the wall.

As for “Thoughts/Prayers”… hmmm…

[spoiler]Dear Og,
I know I don’t pray much and I know you seem pretty busy with other things like Russia shooting at ships of NATO countries and tempting Total Nuclear War, daily drone assassinations, weekly events of gun violence/terrorism, cops shooting blacks like they were 5¢ range targets,
and candidates for president that seem to want to bring bring back Internment Camps… but here goes:

Please help Shunpiker cut a doggie-door into his garage.

Thanks…!
-A Friend
[/spoiler]

Count, thanks for the chuckle. That’s all this project’s really missing… diving intervention.

I tend to agree w/ you. I’ve seen this guy run and duck under the ottoman and come screaming out the other side. Low passes shouldn’t faze him. I wonder if the 2" specification is to protect the dd as much as the dog.

So, are we in-agreement that if I leave ~1” of frame up top, I’ll be okay? Sure, more would be better, but I’m *scared *to bring it any lower.

Do NOT cut ANY of the box beams formed at the top and bottom of those panels - they need both the upper and lower horizontal parts for rigidity.

If you put a wooden frame around the hole, doggy will not scrape on the metal. I suspect the 2" is to allow the ‘stuff’ used to cover the opening to flex.

Work out your own design - but do NOT CUT into the box beams formed by the garage door panels.

NP.

Besides, its safer than me giving contractor advice. :smiley:

I’d have you T-square out the shape of the insert in pencil on the inside wall, drill holes through along those lines (make sure the top line is level & chalk string is your friend).
Then connect all the holes with a masonry saw.

Clean away the rubble.

Fill the open wall with insulation before sealing it, slide in the insert, and mortar it into place outside.
Lastly, fill all gaps on the inside and mortar that into place there. Let it dry, paint the inside cement, let That dry, and then let your dog use it to your hearts content.

For security I’d make sure the door hinges open inward and that you had a metal crossbar installed inside across it that could be securely set down and locked into place when it wasn’t in authorized use.

PS- The above probably had 100 things wrong with it (That’s why contractors have licenses). Hire a licensed trades person (but check that license number & make sure its in his name & not suspended).
Also, make sure all permits are included.