Is my car dealer trying to gouge me?

Factual Questions
1

For any car-savvy dopers out there:

I drive a '95 plymouth Neon. Here’s what happened:

-4 days ago, the “check engine” light came on

-3 days ago I took it to the dealer, was told that my evaporative purge solenoid needed replacement, had the repair done. The mechanic also told me that my cruise control was malfunctioning (which I already knew, but which I didn’t mention because I don’t need to spend $300 on it right now), but that the computer error code for that problem was not sufficient to trigger the check engine light. I declined the expensive repair, for what I consider a luxury item and took the car home.

-a day and a half later, the “check engine” light reappeared. Upon taking the car back in today, I was informed that the cruise control is indeed the culprit, and that I have to either pay to have it fixed, or look at the “check engine” light for eternity, not knowing whether or not it is from the same old problem or something new and potentially problematic.

I have always been pleased with the service at my dealer and have never felt cheated, poorly treated, or suspicious. However, this bothers me.

If in fact the cruise control is responsible for the light being on, why didn’t it come on when the cruise control actually stopped working – three months ago.

And…

Why did the same mechanic tell me, just the other day, that having a bum cruise control would not trigger the check engine light if in fact it could?

I figure there are three possibilities here–

Either this is all on the up and up and he just got some of his facts wrong when I talked to him the other day

or…

They didn’t do the purge solenoid repair correctly the other day, and now they’re looking for a convenient reason to explain the warning light

or…

The cruise control was the culprit all along and I didn’t need the other $300 repair done at all, which would really tick me off.

Any informed opinions out there?

2

Since you’re concerned about repair costs, we can safely assume the warranty has expired. That being the case, why not take it to an independent repair facility, instead of the dealer, and see what they say. Don’t mention anything about the recent repair or what the dealer told you. Just play dumb…“Can you take a look at my car? The check engine light is on.” They use the same diagnostic equipment as the dealer - plug their little diagnostic do-hickey into your car’s onboard computer, get a diagnostic code, and look it up in a book. If they tell you it’s the cruise control, you can then decide whether you’d feel more comfortable with the dealer or the independent guy doing the repairs. If you’ve had a good relationship with the dealer for the past six years, they’re probably not trying to gouge you. And, most dealer’s service centers will make good on a problem if they screwed up the original repair. I brought my car into the dealer once because the check engine light was on. After looking at the car for a bit they called me in and asked “Where did you have the oil changed last?”. I said that they had done the last oil change. The guy tapped a few keys on his computer and said “Yep, you sure did. There it is on October (something or other). Okay, thank you. It’ll be ready in a half hour” Half hour later the car was fixed, free of charge. Never did find out what the problem was, but I’m gathering they messed something up during the oil change.

3

Why don’t you raise your concerns and the questions to the dealer? In the meanwhile, you can call Car Talk and ask them.

4

This happens when you don’t ask for the old parts back. Always ask for the parts back.

Check your oil level & see how it is.

Also, Im pretty sure even if you are under warrentee you can still use any shop you want to.

Also, check for recalls.

If you told them to do something about that light on the dash & they didn’t do it, then they certainly can’t charge you again. Or should not.

5

also try edmunds.com, find your car, find the forum for your car, talk to guys there.

6

Thanks everyone for your responses. I did eventually speak with the service manager at my dealer, and he apologized for not getting me a better explanation sooner.

Apparently, the cruise control and the first part I had replaced both run off of the same vacuum system. With the evaporative purge solenoid leaking, presumably for a while before it was replaced, the minor vacuum leak from the cruise control servo was not enough to set of the “check engine” alarm. However,now that the solenoid is replaced, the vacuum leak there is fixed, making the leak at the cruise control servo proportionally stronger, and enough to set off an alarm.

I feel reasonably satisfied now, although I’m not too pleased with the person who designed my car so that a failure of the cruise control becomes a major mechanical issue. Not only does it set off an annoying warning light on the dashboard, but this problem puts the engine computer in “safety” mode, meaning that, unless I get the cruise control fixed, I will get poor gas mileage and poor emissions performance. Bummer.
Thanks again.

7

Can they just disconnect the cruise control unti lyou’re ready to have it repaired?

8

This being a Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge product triggered a memory of working on these vehicles a few years ago and a way to avoid paying to have a mechanic tell you why your check engine light is on.

This may not still apply but, if you turn your key on and off three times your check engine light will start blinking, not at random but in code like blink,blink,blink…blink,blink. You can purchase a book at Autozone (or someplace similiar) that will tell you what this code means. You will count the blinks and write down a corresponding digit, in the above example you would have 3…2. You look in the book and find what a 32 code is and it will tell you everything that should be checked to stop this malfunction.

I’m not sure, but I believe there is something similiar for Fords. And I am not sure if Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge even does this anymore but if they stopped, it has only been recently.