I’ve always been told by people who claim to know: (Looking around conspiratorially)“You know, there really is no difference between the 87 octane and 92 octane. It’s just a way to get you to pay more money.” I’ve always played it safe and used the 89 octane. What’s the deal?
Red, this has been covered several times before. Best rule to follow is to use the fuel recommended in your owners manual. Generally the only time higher octane is needed is if you hear detonation (pinging and knocking).
Actually, Consumer Reports blew the lid on this one. Increased octane really has no effect on your vehicle. It does not cause the engine to “run better” and it does not increase gas milage. Very few cars actually require a higher-octane fuel, and we’re talking about high, high performance vehicles. You’ll notice that the gas companies do not make any claims about higher octane gas. The reason is they can’t without violating truth in advertising laws. I remember about five years ago one gas station featured a woman who said over and over that she believes high octane fuel is better for her car and that gave her a greater feeling of security, but the ad made no claims about the actual performance of the gas. (Sneaky, huh?) So my advice is to save yourself some money and get the cheapest gas offered by a reputable gas station (don’t go to the real cheapies because you never know what you’re getting at those places).
On a side note, Consumer Reports also debunked the “change your oil every 3,000 miles” myth. They did their tests on New York City cabs (which you know had to truly test the limits - running for hours at a time, frequent stops and starts). They found no difference on wear and tear between changing oil every 3,000 miles and every 7,000 miles. But you definitely want to get it changed at 7,000 because nothing is better for your car.
I read the article in Consumer Reports also. But I also realize that cabs run all day long, everyday. Your car doesn’t. How many people drive their car 4,5,6 miles, and shut it off? This is what kills the oil. It doesn’t get warm enough to burn off the water, and oxidents. As for octane, it depends on the car. In my 97 Jeep, I can use 87 and notice no difference. But in my 86 Dodge Turbo, I could tell a difference when my sister or brother would put ‘cheap’ high octane. I would only burn Amoco ‘white’ 93 octane. In the wifes Jeep, it pings on 87.
I going to have the dealer check the timing and the knock sensor. It should run fine on 87, (with 93 getting expensive)
I pity the fool that brings a knife to a gun fight.
Is there a difference in rating? Yes there is motor octane and research octane ratings, the pump octane rating is an avrage of those two, but I don’t believe that is what you meant
If you have a turbo or supercharged, or a high compression engine then the higher octane will help and may even be necessary.
Because most modern cars have knock sensors that signal the computer to pull timing out of the engine when knock is detected, one might not notice that the lower octane is hurting performance.
If you drive hard, the octane will probably help.
Many new engines have more compression than in the past and the LT-1 350, used in many GM vehicles, runs the timing against the knock sensor. This means that using lower octane, especially during the summer heat, you are not getting the max economy and power. I would infer that many cars are programmed to run max timing allowed by the knock sensor.
BTW, in my area the price on 87, 89, and 93 octane fuel seems to be strange. The 2 point jump to 89 may cost .15, but the 4 point gain from 89 to 94 is only about.07 ??? So Red 2 you may want to rethink 89, if it priced like that where you live.
Ahhh, race fuel is still the same price 
!
what a mess, i can’t edit that message??? well it is still understandable
it’s too damn late AnYwhAy —snore
There is a little icon with a red arrow next to your message for editting it.
All gas can’t be the same. How it’s stored in the tanks there at the station, etc. I always like to use the same station & the same gas assuming it works fine with that gas.
Here’s a good article about octane.
And 1420Vel.GN, thanks for explaining the “(R+M)/2 Method” that I always see mentioned on the pump.
2 more reasons to follow the manufacturers reccomendations:
Timing retarded too far can cause overheating.
Many engine management systems go into “open loop mode” at wide open throttle. Timing goes to full advance and most sensors are ignored. So, you may not be getting the protection (described bu 1420Vel.GN above) just when it’s needed the most.
RTFM 