Isle Royale National Park -- What's the Skinny?

A group of friends from Georgia and Alabama are thinking of heading up to the UP of Michigan this summer, and maybe taking the ferry over for a few days on Isle Royale National Park. Has anyone been there? Do you recommend it? Any good insider tips for us rookies?

Also, we would be interested in any good tips on destinations in the U.P., or on the Minnesota and Canadian shores of the Big Lake. Favorite campsites, good quirky/cheesy tourist attractions, fishing pointers, etc. (Never been fishing up that way. What’s the best fishing in late July? How does one go about it? Any good guides?)

We would also be interested in any good canoeing areas up that way.

Thanks!

I’ve never been to Isle Royale, but I have many good friends who have gone. It’s very beautiful, but the main complaint I’ve heard is that it’s not all that much different than the UP itself given the time & hassle it takes to get there. From the Keewenaw, it takes something like 6 hours to get there. From Northern Minnesota, it’s a bit faster.

#1 rule: Don’t go in June.
#2 rule: Don’t go in June.
#3 rule: Don’t go in June.

Why not go in June? June is Mosquito Hell in the UP & surrounding areas. You do NOT want to be in the woods in the UP in June. Whoops - I see you’re going in late July. Nice time to be there.

Don’t go fishing on the big lake without a good fishing boat with a radio. Lake Superior is a BIG lake. If something goes wrong with your boat, you’re in big danger. Storms can come up very quickly, and you don’t want to be caught in 'em without a way to call for help. Be smart & be careful on Lake Superior - people are killed often enough that you don’t want to take the risk.

Check out the Porcupine Mountains in the Western UP. Nice fishing, good lakes to canoe on, good camping, etc. The Keewenaw Penninsula is gorgeous - drive out to the point if you get a chance. Get one of those “Michigan Gazetteers” and check out some of the back roads & the waterfalls.

Pictured Rocks is also neat to check out. If the campsites are all taken, try camping on Grand Island. It’s very pretty, and a lot less people go there than to Pictured Rocks.

Check out all the deserted beaches. I’ve camped on many of 'em, and rarely get bothered. Just be considerate, don’t leave garbage, etc.

Any other questions? I’m a UP native - I’d be happy to answer.

And, since this is MPSIMS, I’ll be gratuitous and add a link to a pic of me solo camping on Grand Island:
http://atlas.csd.net/~abadoozy/megrnd.jpg

Oh, sure, Athena - “solo camping”. If you were alone, then who took the picture? Huh? How stoopid do you think we are? Geez.

The OP? Sorry, I don’t know nuthin’ 'bout no UP royalty.


After all, what is your hosts’ purpose in having a party? Surely not for you to enjoy yourself; if that were their sole purpose, they’d have simply sent champagne and women over to your place by taxi. – P. J. O’Rourke

Wonderful, great place to be. Go late August, not too hot, not too cold, and no bugs.


“Clatu, Verrata…nector?..neck-tie?”

Doctor Jackson, I beleive you’ve got an excellent poin there! Also why would Athena hire a fashion model to stand in for her in the picture? Something’s amiss here.

I’m a techie, remember? And what techie would be solo camping without a camera with a timer feature? NOT THIS ONE! Notice log upon which the Goddess of Wisdom is perched. Notice other log to the left. Extrapolate. Directly across from the sitting-log is a perfect log on which to balance a camera.

And thanks, Arnold Winkelried, for the model comment, even though it’s an outright lie. I’m all sweaty and yicky from hiking!

Thank you, Arnold. My poin is a great source of family pride. (This levity brought to you by the King of Typos - hey, that makes me sound Greek!)

Athena proclaims:

(Yaddas mine)

Yeah, ok. Uh huh. So far we have Athena, a fashion model, and a photographer on a deserted island at night. That’s 3 people, can anyone deduce more?

I haven’t been to Isle Royale, but friends of mine who have gone have enjoyed themselves. However, I dunno if the extra effort involved in going there is worthwhile, given that you could go to, say, the Porcupine Mountains and back country camp somewhat easier.

If you’re flexible, you could consider Lake Superior Provincial Park (in Ontario) on the east side of the lake. We go there every year, and the park is big enough that the “population density” is pretty low. Plus they’ve got a pretty cool Native American pictograph site (relatively rare in these parts).

Other than that, Pictured Rocks is pretty scenic, but relatively busy. There’s a small state park with an old, old iron smelter in Christmas (fun stuff to find in the water). Calumet is a nice town to drive through for the architecture.

zut wrote:

Actually, I have been to both Porcupine Mountain State Park and Lake Superior Provincial Park. I loved both! (With maybe the edge to the Provincial Park for the reason you suggested – fewer folks around.)

We enjoyed both of those places so much (as well as Lake Superior and environs generally) that my friends and I have decided to go back to explore other areas. Hence the Isle Royale idea. But now that I’m hearing that it’s not much different from the mainland, and a whole lot more trouble, I dunno. Maybe not. Seems like the ferry ride might be fun, though, since I’ve never actually been out on the lake. Still waffling.

The first time we went up, we were sort of wandering around without much of a clue as to the best places to explore…so I figured I would ask my SDMB pals for a few pointers.

I do want to explore the Keewenaw Peninsula, as suggested by Athena, since we didn’t get a chance to do that last time. Thanks for the tips, also, on Christmas and Calumet.

Oh, and Athena? If you have that models number, she is certainly invited to join us on our little excursion! :wink:

Thanks for the tips. I welcome any others. E.g., Where can a guy get a decent pastie?

Also, is there anything worthwhile on the Minnesota shore, or the northern/western Canadian shore?

I’m really looking forward to the trip. The natural beauty of the area (enhanced further by the presence of the lovely Athena) is truly stunning!

One tiny, minor, almost insignificant point that no one has quite thought to mention:

Whatever you want to use on the island besides water you must backpack in, yourself. The only thing on the island besides the ranger station and the other backpackers is Nature. No store. No lodge. The ferry will be back in one week.

Why go? Moose and wolves. There are quite a few of both species living on the island. I believe that the island is the only place in Michigan where they can be found (outside zoos and nature parks).


Tom~

It is hell on earth. Well, 14 years ago it was.

Mosquitoes the size of your head.
Elk.
Wolves.
Foxes.
Fish.
No motorized vehicles (other than boats).
No television.
Bad radio.
Bad (and late) newspapers.
Water too cold for swimming.
Parasites that can kill you if you drink the water.
Swamps.
I was astonished that they had hot water.

What a nightmare! Then again, I think I’m roughing it if a hotel doesn’t have 24 hour room service.


My kids brighten up our home. They never turn the lights off. -A Wallyism

spoke- sez:

We also go to the Keewenaw quite frequently. If you go there, you might also consider: 1)There’s a grove of virgin forest pines just south of Copper Harbor (called, I think, the Estuyvant? Pines) which is kind of hard to find, but there’s not much virgin pine forest left around. (Note this is not part of the Copper Harbor State Park, but it is public land). 2) There’s a number of ghost or semi-ghost towns in the peninsula. 3) I personally like the north-west side of peninsula with a lot of rocky beaches.

We also drove around Lake Superior a few years ago, which is actually quite a long drive. The northern shore is pretty rocky and desolate, with few people, and also only a few places to access the lake. To be honest, I thought the scenery was getting pretty repetitive; mile after mile of up-and-down rocks. YMMV, of course. That being said, there are a couple Provincial parks on the north shore that I’ve heard are interesting, and I liked visiting Thunder Bay.

Damn, I wrote a big ol’ reply and I lost it cuz I put in the wrong password. I HATE when that happens.

Anyway, here’s the basics:

Pasties: Lawry’s in the Marquette/Negaunee/Ishpeming area. In Calumet/Houghton/Hancock, I’d try the pasties advertised at www.pasty.com. I’ve never had 'em, but c’mon, a bunch of old Finlander ladies making pasties? They gotta be good.

Also, try to find an actual restaurant as opposed to a pasty shop that makes pasties. They’re a little different - flakier crust, gravy, and worth seeking out.

In L’anse, make sure to go to the Hilltop restaurant and get a sweetroll. There’s a link to 'em on the pasty page, and they’re super yummy.

I’ve been to Esteyvant (sp?) pines, they’re, well, big trees. Impressive, but not too impressive.

Make sure to go to the Gay Bar in Gay, MI if you have the chance. Ya gotta go just to say you’ve been there.

And contrary to what tomndeb said, there’s moose and wolves all over the UP. A friend of mine once had a moose in her backyard. You might have a better chance of sighting one on Isle Royale, but they do live all over.

What else? Whenever I go up there, I usually spend time hanging out on deserted beaches. I’m tough, so I swim in the water. It’s an added benefit that you can throw your beer in the water and it stays cold! Whoohooo!

spoke-, I’ll see if I can get that model’s number, but I think her significant other may be a little miffed if she goes tromping up to da UP without him…

Athena wrote:

Yeah, I’m into that, too. Any particular favorites?

They’re all over. Your best best is to get something like the Michigan Gazetteer (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0899332218/o/qid=956249053/sr=8-1/ref=aps_sr_b_1_1/104-0997444-5719644) & just go looking for dirt roads that end at beaches.

If you’re in Marquette, head up Hwy 550 to Big Bay. About 6 miles out of town is Little Presque Isle Beach and Wetmore’s Landing beach. There’s a path that goes from one to the other and it’s gorgeous. Both are usually empty during the week. If you go all the way to Big Bay, there’s plenty of beaches up there that are almost always empty.

Across from Little Presque Isle is a logging road that goes back into the woods. You can literally take the roads for 100+ miles. There’s some great camping/hiking/mountain biking in there. In my opinion, the mountain biking there is as good or better than any out here in the west (CO/Utah/etc). Ya gotta promise me you’ll be good if you go there - don’t leave garbage, be nice to the natives, etc. It’s one of my favorite spots, and I’d hate it to be damaged.

Thanks for the tips. Don’t worry; we are conscientious campers!

I was there about twenty years ago. Backpacked around the island with my father. The last I knew, there was some kind of lodge or cabins at Rock Harbor (we didn’t stay there, so I don’t have any details). Even smaller Windigo at least had a store, but I’m not sure what else.

Important point no one else thought to bring up, since you can’t tell pronunciation from text. It’s pronounced Isle Royal, not Roy-Al as you might expect with that last ‘e’.

It is too clear, and so it is hard to see.